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About missyclare

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  1. Looks like a pretty decent trim. The sole has been obeyed and that's the approach these hooves need. Can't tell about the heels, need a heel shot. I'm just glad that he's not collapsing any more. If he's sore, then you need boots with pads. He'll thank you.
  2. Regardless, I think the balance is improving in the new growth department. Wouldn't you say that the buckled side is improving? The front of your horse tells it all. Turns in bone have the legs coming in narrow under the body to compensate. The RF is worse and you can see it in how the foot is delivered to the ground in the heel shot. The solar shot shows bruising on the whole inside. He still has some healing to do and is probably why he's sore. Looks like an abscess brewing on the LF toe quarter as well. I agree with Trinity and look forward to you doing the trimming yourself. I don't agree on the Bute in order to ride. It will make him careless, unable to place his feet independently, add the weight of the rider, not protect him from further abscesses or further irritation from the bruising and Bute may address inflamation but actually impedes healing and will produce ulcers in a week. Give him time to heal and let him be careful. If this were my horse, I'd have him on Move-Ease from mybesthorse.com. and fight the inflamation without the side effects of Bute. I have used it on several horses for different reasons and every time its raised my eyebrows. I threw my Bute in the garbage and have never looked back. The better he heals now, the better he'll be able to handle barefoot when the shoes comes off. Frogs are puny and need to be strengthened to be ready as well. That frog is the stabilizer between those heels being delivered to the ground the way they are and back of the hoof strength is very important. I can't draw much lines on these. But another problem is flare forward and can best be addressed barefoot. It's slow to remediate and you need to stay on top of the trim to correct it.
  3. When hunting season starts, I would pull the shoes and start rehabbing. You're right about the farrier. Are there any barefoot trimmers in the area? Still need better pics. Even without a solar shot, I get the feeling that P3 is down a bit on its nose. This means, that with every step, P3 descends on the inside of thin sole creating inflammation that changes bone. I'm talking about the area around the frog apex and the whole interior of the sole forward from there. The shoe, around the rim does nothing to protect that bone in the middle of the hoof. It descends down thru the shoe to meet the ground. Padding must be under that descending bone, make sense? Hoof boots are needed, along with a balanced trim and a serious fight against thrush. The central sulcis should not be a crack that runs thru the frog on down thru the heels and heel bulbs, but should be nothing more than a mere thumbprint depression on top of the frog and no crack at all. The war is not won on thrush until it looks like this. The hoof cannot develop and get stronger when thrush is eating it away at the same time. This thrush is bad enough to cause lameness as well and is part of the problem. The shoe will encourage the heels to contract and fold in on itself like an accordion and trap and deepen thrush in that central sulcis crack. If you don't get clean right down to the bottom of that crack, it will continue to eat deeper while you think everything is fine on the surface....toothbrushes, Q-Tips...whatever it takes. So, when hunting season comes, I would pull the shoes, get a balanced trim, get booted and comfortable and move to work that trim and develop a healthier hoof. Whoever comes, just keep telling them that you want a balanced trim and fight the war on thrush.
  4. Pictures would be great. A shoe won't prevent an abscess and it depends on where that abscess is, that will tell why and how it formed....like overgrown bars, frog out of work, thrush, diet imbalance, trim imbalance, too much alfalfa, IR or Cushings, too much or too little selenium, too much sugar, starch and iron. Some things on the hoof can be weak and let the ground hurt it. Some things can be prominent and meet the ground head on for a double whammy. Somethings are internal and metabolic and they are all related. You need good balanced nutrition to grow a strong hoof. You need to fight thrush because nothing can develop and strengthen when thrush is eating the hoof away at the same time. You need a good balanced trim and maintain it. You need to move to work that trim and develop strength. 4" deep gravel, either pea gravel or crushed limestone...around the water trough, in gateways, run-in, preferred pathways, etc. The thrush will be better managed, the self trimming will be better managed and the development fantastic. When a hoof does its homework on rocks, it becomes rock crushing which means it crushes rocks instead of the other way around. The shoes would have to come off in order to achieve this, but if you did, then you could hang the shoe up above the barn door and smile at it when you pass. Shoes and imbalance and contracted heels, and elongated breakover = thin soles, which is an abscess waiting to happen. Quarters jamming up, is a hoof that is already jammed up by his descending weight, never mind the ground. It's biotin that takes months to show up in new stronger growth coming down from the coronary band. It's copper and zinc without iron, that strengthens the hoof AT the ground. You'll see the effects of copper are a lot faster than biotin. Copper strengthens the wall, the water line and the cross connections that give the hoof its flexible strength and that's what you want on those rocks. Between the copper and the gravel, thrush doesn't have a chance. Copper will also give him his original coat color, never to fade in the sun again. Minerals like California Trace, fed, to make sure they get them. The blocks are mere bonus and will never meet their needs alone. Yes, I do suspect the rocks, but also hooves that can't handle them and yes, they can. I would keep them off the hill until their feet are stronger and abscesses resolved. It doesn't sound like they are missing much out there and if the grass is sparce, then what else is growing? I'd be going for a walk out there. Seed heads are like sugar pills, weeds are higher in sugar, stressed grass is higher in sugar, so are any areas of lush growth. I'd start with the gravel, though and if the sore foot had to be booted for a bit, so be it, let the other three feet get started in the meantime. It is a journey, and best for you to decide when to take it, but you'll never look back. Oh, and as for road work, if you can, head for the middle, where the crown is free of rocks. Asphalt is magic also. At this point, the gravel shoulder would just be more insult. A hoof has to develop its toughness in degrees and stones are graduation. It's then, that you have a rock crushing hoof. Hope this helps....
  5. How infection spreads in the bloodstream. It's like white water rafting, only the ride is too wild and the bacteria have specific places to go and can't afford to be simply washed away, so they creep down the side walls, bonding to cells for hold, breaking them and then rebonding again. Like going hand over hand down a ladder. I am reminded of two things. One is because I'm a Trekkie and imagined the Zindi crawling forward on the ceiling and walls of Enterprise, lol! and that this is the same way that a part of hoof growth slides down from the coronary band. What a mimic this bacteria is! Designed just for you.
  6. A horse with complex problems and sensitivity because of those problems, I think the boot would definitely help, but its not a therapeutic boot at all. Pads are needed in the boots. This boot is simple protection and not promoting a better foot.
  7. Austrian. A high degree of technology behind it. There's nothing that says how the velcro-type pad is attached to the hoof wall. I'm thinking glue and have no doubts of its hold...a good thing, but possibly a bad thing too. I definitely see the area that the pad touches as hoof wall immediately blocked from breathing and replaced with something toxic. I wonder if when the hoof is not balanced or transitioned, that the torque would transfer to those clips, effectively pulling down on the velcro, the pad and the hoof wall. Would it encourage a quarter to fill in and jam up? (it is in the pic and while we're at it, what's with the prominent toe quarter shape? Correct thinking but old school farrier) Would it enhance bad growth from the "jam and splat" mechanism of a medial/lateral imbalance? Yes, it would be hard to stay on top of the trim, especially taking flare off the top. I see the cover getting ripped off out in the field and lost and spending an hour trying to clean out the velcro with a pin anyway, lol. If this doesn't happen, then I imagine the hoof taking the brunt instead. It feels like I've turned the horse out into the field and forgot to take his halter off. I think this would work best on a transitioned/balanced hoof, which I have, but then they are also rock crushing hooves, so I don't need boots. It will be entering Kick Starter soon, so hopefully will be more information, trials and opinions in the future.
  8. Opinions? Definitely watch the video for full understanding. http://horserunners.com/
  9. Cracks don't heal. They have to grow out. The trick is to keep the torque off it, so that it can grow out, rather than tear upward in the opposite direction. Not getting the onus off that crack will keep the crack maintained or getting worse. Every step matters and you can either promote concavity and a better hoof, or promote pathological growth....the barefoot trim is for the horse, the trim under the shoe is for the shoe. Your horse needs a balanced barefoot trim if he's going to go bare anyway. You may have to call in a trimmer, if the farrier cannot do this. It is the crack at the ground that when the hoof rolls over it, puts tension on it all the way up. A bevel takes the crack right off the ground and keeps it quiet, while it grows out...as long as its maintained, or the torque is right back on again. A shoe also takes the crack off the ground, but then its also sitting on the shoe. Without pics, I can't tell what the situation is with his feet, or the work your farrier has done. I see this as a self trimming exercise by the horse, with a bit of Murphy's Law thrown in. If the wall is even with the sole, then its all good. That's exactly where it wants to be. It hasn't torn into soft tissue. He shouldn't be lame, if this is the case. If he's sensitive, I'd put boots on him and keep going. The goal is to get a good trim, then move to work that trim. If he's off of shoes, don't let it slow you down, get comfortable and move, fight thrush and make good use of this time without shoes. You may not need them again. He's older, so the transition will probably be slower and comfort should be more prominent on your sleeve. As for the diet, I'm going to have to research all these products to see what you are feeding in total. I suspect that his system may be fairly junked up. Sorry, but I'll take a look. At 19, the risk for developing Cushings runs higher, so diet should be low in iron, starch and sugar. What he requires in order to meet these iron/sugar/starch demands is a grass hay only diet. Sugar and starch added together to be a strict 10%. Treat him like he already is IR and you won't go there. You don't want to go there. What hay are you feeding? Is he a hard keeper, bad teeth, are you showing? What's his work schedule like? What are the ground conditions like? Cushings and IR related problems affect the white line in the feet. Cracks and broken off shoes are not necessarily related. If his weight is good, and he's not laminitic, then no need for the blood test, or even xrays, I'm thinking. If the crack was bad, the farrier would have done more than slap a shoe on it....I hope....need pics.
  10. Oh Dear! Geez! When it rains, it pours! I'm sorry to hear about your wrist. I have never broken a bone before. I can only imagine how much it hurts. It does not matter who trims, as long as you are advocating. All you need is your voice for that. When he is done, pick up the hoof with your one good hand, let it hang and see the frog pointing at 12 o'clock and the sides in your peripheral vision are level to each other. The clinch is to see that the wall is the same height about the sole on both sides and the coronary band should run straight. make him come back in 4 weeks. Make an appt and carve out your time with him. If there is any tweaking to do afterwards, yourdaughter can take those rasp strokes with your instructions, just like you did the hinds. You need more lines, let me know. Best wishes!
  11. You may be able to trim while he is down. I would ice anyway, because its a non-toxic pain killer. Inflammation causes damage and ice minimalizes that damage at the same time. Good luck.
  12. Would Bute help. Also, epsom salt soaks will help lower sensitivity in 5 minutes. Keep the pads handy. If you can get enough air time to go after the high side and clear the quarters a bit, get those heels level. it will help to make him more comfortable. If its only 1 swipe of the rasp at a time, then so be it. I have been there. The up and down is movement, just go with it and see if you can get a rhythm going. Do what you can and not what you cannot. Where is he spending his days. Does he want to move around at all by himself. I think he needs to be on some pain killers. He should be in pain enough to be careful and out of pain enough not to be miserable with it. If you feel any bounding pulse, go to ice. If he has bruising in the white line, then its important that there be a well placed active bevel that removes torque from it. That is more important than shortening the toe at the this point. Can you post some new pics.
  13. Just obey the white line when setting the bevel. It will be enough to take the pull off and relieve. Flare forward does not happen overnight and cannot be fixed overnight either. Placing a good bevel and maintaining it is key. Its the medial, lateral balance that is more of an issue here. This is where the pain is.
  14. Yup, this situation proves that you are the only one that truly loves your horse. My thoughts are with you on this. The fit with the boots is very important. They need to be the therapeutic kind that take pads in them. Children's playground mats work well. You can even double them for more comfort and for better fit. In rehab, Ive gone from size 3 to size 1 and the pads helped me not to have to buy a size 2 along the way. I have also made my own boots in a crunch. (apply pad with one duct tape to hold it on, then wrap with co-flex wrap and dont worry about where the wrap goes, up over the heel bulbs etc. Then apply duct tape, across the bottom and a couple around the rim with extra on the toes and up and over the heel bulbs again. Then cut it all down to just below the coronary band and cut a 1 inch vertical slit down between the heel bulbs. You should be good for 1-2 days.) The front feet are going to respond like the back feet, only its going to take a little extra care to get them healed. Keep an eye on all feet for that high side by noting how high above live sole the wall is on the high side and keep obeying the sole. Sometimes the pathology takes a bit longer to correct its growth, heal, only being able to trim so much etc., so keep tweaking and correcting for awhile. If the shoe removal is a problem, I would enlist, husband, daughter, a neighbourhood old timer, another vet or farrier or knowledgeable person from a nearby boarding barn to help if needed. You are going to have to decide whether anyone is going to put shoes back on him or not. You. Find confidence in the improvement with the hinds and dont be afraid to say no. Tweaking these feet into balance is a better scenario than the balance of that trim locked up under a shoe. Putting padding under the bone where the weight descends is better than hanging the bone with peripheral loading. A pad under the shoe will do the same. If the farrier wants shoes again, he had better have a darn good reason and the trim best be perfectly balanced under that shoe.....and, the horse better be much more comfortable. Stamp your feet and advocate. This horse has been in discomfort long enough and you have been feeling it. Best wishes.
  15. I am thinking that if he is so reactive, he should be sedated to get those shoes off and have padding ready. The vet needs to do this as he can sedate and pull the shoes. I wonder why he did not do this at the last visit and saw how sore he was. You have done a great job on the hinds. You have relieved the pressure on the walls. You have seen an improvement, you know what is the problem and what to look for. Why not boot, let him heal, get him balanced yourself. I was thinking that the hoof looked stocked up on the shoe, so I am not surprised that its gone up into soft tissue and the leg is stocking up as well. They need to come off. I think you need to trim, cause you are the only one that knows what is going on with these hooves and can fix it.