qheventer

Members
  • Content count

    2,807
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About qheventer

  • Rank
    Author & Rider
  • Birthday 02/27/1969

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://fjthomasblog.wordpress.com/
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    East Tennessee
  • Interests
    Published Author - Lost Betrayal (Solstice Publishing)
    Horse Show Judge (OHSA) & Riding Instructor
    Barrel Racer & Ranch events, Hunter
    Training blog - http://qheventer.wordpress.com/
    @F_J_Thomas on twitter, on google plus
  1. Years ago, I backed the trailer up to the round pen and left food and hay on it and left the horse loose in the round pen. This particular horse didn't eat for 3 days --- some horses are just claustrophobic and too scared to do it on their own. I also tried the routine of feeding at the trailer and eventually on the trailer as well -- that didn't work either. The only thing that worked with him was asking for one foot on and off a million times, not ask for the 2nd foot until he was perfectly fine with putting that first foot on there. Then after he's doing 2 feet comfortably, then ask for the 3rd, fourth. Basically don't ask for the next step until he's absolutely bored to death and comfortable with what you're already asking for. I spent hours upon hours with this horse on a daily basis to get him comfortable on the trailer. Eventually he loaded much nicer and would stay if I kept in the routine of making him wait for a while each time it was time to unload. If not, he anticipated and would come bolting out the next time. He got much, much better but he was never one of those that was completely relaxed with hauling unless he was loose in half of the trailer. What seemed to help him most was not locking him in until he showed signs he was more comfortable. The other thing that helped was changing my routine and make him wait before coming off -- I've noticed the same thing with other horses that tend to anticipate. I've seen some that are so bad that you pull in the driveway and turn on the trailer lights and they start dancing because they know they're fixing to come off -- it's repetition. They know the routine. What I've done and still do with mine is pull in and wait for at least a few minutes. If it's night and i need the light, I'll turn on the light and wait a few more. Then I'll open one door and wait again. Then the other door and wait. If I can, I'll even go so far as to pull off their shipping boots while they're standing there or I'll just undo their tie and make them stand still before they back up or turn around. Just anything and everything you can think of to delay the unloading process so that they have to wait.
  2. Mooreman's Gro-Strong minerals is a good forage balancer. Although it's a supplement rather than a forage balancer, Remission is formulated for horses that are prone to founder.
  3. Thanks for bumping that up! Great threads and answered a lot of questions.
  4. I used 1equifax and one regular zimectrin. Does it take a while to see a difference?
  5. #1 ----If a horse has neck threadworms and you treat with a double dose of ivomec, how long should it take to see an improvement? #2 ---Can the hairloss that comes with threadworm infestation resemble a hive pattern? One of ours started losing a little bit of hair back in June. The patches were small, round kind of like hivest except I never saw any raised areas before the hair fell out. No swelling or anything. The spots weren't crusty either. A few, not all, would have a scab on them after the hair was gone - I figured it was from him scratching himself. He also was rubbing his tail even after I wormed him with Quest -- that was just prior to all this. ((Back in April I had pulled blood because his energy wasn't good and he was slightly anemic which is why I had wormed him with the Quest and done an initial feed change.)) He's also lost hair down the center of his belly in a line. That area does have a couple of scabbed, raised places. I've washed him in everything from betadine, listerine and treated with Vetricyn, Nu-Stock, strong epsom salt water. No difference. I had changed his feed just prior to this and thinking it could be allergies, I changed his feed again and cut out the grain and also changed his bedding. I didn't see any difference in his itchiness. He doesn't have any breathing problems that you sometimes see with allergies. His energy is good. I just treated him with the double dose of Ivomec a week ago today. He's got so many little bald spots now it's hard to keep up with what's old and what's new -- I need to start marking them! Although he's not scratching as much, I'm not seeing a huge difference -- or at least the difference I thought I would see. He's still itchy, although he's not scraping his body up against the wall. Mostly he's just rubbing his belly. I had planned on dosing him again with the Ivomec next week.
  6. You've gotten some great food for thought. And I agree -- Chris probably did as good as anybody could with the situation that happened in the environment that it happened and the amount of time that he had. I'd only like to add that you don't really know who your horse really is or how well they're really trained until you've pushed all the buttons. It's always the buttons we don't push that suprise us and show up our problems in our training. You really have to push on a horse to find the buttons that set them off and sometimes they do reveal a horse or lack of training we didn't realize was there. One thing that I would do --- I would contact Chris Cox and tell him what's going on and how you feel and what you've observed. I think it could benefit you both if you did that. I will say this too ----- it's a rare horse that doesn't take advantage of person's fear or lack of assertiveness. And the smarter the horse, the more advantage they take and the easier they pick up on fear. I would say, from your post, your horse is picking up on your apprehension. He's either doing one of two things -- he's either taking full advantage of it and giving you the middle hoof, or he needs someone to lead and you're not so he's taking the lead. Good luck & be safe!
  7. I'd go back and work on teaching her how to give through her face first. When you take up contact and create pressure, when she gives to that, release the contact as a reward. Once she gets good at a standstill, then work on it lungeing her very close up. As she gets better, then let her out a little more.
  8. If you're showing hunter type equitation & show hack (i'm assuming that's the same as road hack?)you could just do a running braid and use rubber bands periodically to keep it together. As far as the spookiness -- get there early, for one and just expose them to everything at a nice relaxed walk first. I'll work them on the lungeline but instead of running them at the end of a lungeline I work them close up and work on bending and getting their mind first. If they're bending and their inside ear is on me and I'm not seeing a lot of white in that inside eye that tells me their mind is on me and then it's time to go to work. Get the mind and the feet will follow.
  9. First, let me say I DO NOT want this to turn into a debate about the ethics of padded horses. This is just a simple yes or no question. Are padded horses required to back in the show ring? Do you have a source for your answer such as the link to a rule book, etc?
  10. Love older horses! She looks like she's in good shape and her weight is good. I'd rather they have a little extra weight starting out anyhow -- easier to take it off than put it on as they get older. I don't think you'd have any trouble at all getting her in shape if you're consistent and disciplined about it it. I'd start out working on bending and just get her soft and supple first. Lots of bending and walking small circles. Lateral work and things like that. You can to really get her bending through those circles and stepping up underneath herself. Let her do some stretching too to help strengthen that top line. Then I'd work on transitions and just getting her balance back. She's got to be balanced in her turns and has to redevelope the strength to hold her frame around the barrels. Walk to trot and back to walk on different size circles will help with that. You can also work on spirals making your circles bigger and smaller. After you work on those things, then I'd start to bump her to cantering and start working on her conditioning. You can start out with a goal of 2 minutes straight of trotting and a 2 minutes straight of cantering and go from there. Most performance horses will work towards 10 minutes of each ultimately. But it takes a while to get there. I agree -- keep her off the pattern and keep her active with trails and chasing cows if you can. Just anything that keeps her moving and not bored. Extreme Cowboy Races and Trail Challenges are good too. I'd also get her on a joint supplement to help her joints stay pain free help keep her supple. Enjoy! Sounds like you've got a fun show season coming up!
  11. to the other posters advice. Think of it this way -- if you only had 10% of your sight how confident would you be not being able to see around you and not knowing what was around you? You'd be nervous and probably impatient too. Just because a horse is older and knows how to do something doesn't mean the work quits. Keeping a horse well mannered is something that you have to work on throughout their lives. Good ground manners are something you have to work on every day. And if a horse has a health issue, such as they can't see and it's getting progressively worse then the more critical the routine work becomes. I had a mare that was completely blind that I rode and showed some as well. She was awesome but the only reason she was was because she trusted me completely. We didn't get that over night. It took a lot of work and it took consistent on going work to keep her that way. On the alfalfa, I agree that feeding grass hay if you can would be a better choice. But I also know that it depends on what type of hay you have available. You might think about a mix hay if complete grass hay isn't easy to get. Just take a deep breath and remember that we're supposed to be the smarter species and help them out and help them to understand. They don't do things out of ill will or malice.
  12. I've got two on it because they were already on it. They keep all their higher dollar competeing horses on it. ($60,000+)They barrel race and have won rounds at some of the top futurity & derby races in the country. The older one was put it on it as a teeny scrawny yearling and he's now 15.2+ and 1250 pounds now as a 3 year old. He's a futurity horse. The other is a long yearling that was purchased at a sale in December and put on it then. I've already seen a difference in her. Her coat has slicked off and she's filled out and has grown. It's about the same price as Strategy. The drawback is that if you're feeding it for weight, you do have to feed quite a bit in comparison to other feeds. I like it because it's alfalfa based instead of beet pulp based. I also like the fact that it's got Rice Bran in it.I also like the fact that it has very little molassas. As far as "roughage products" --- Purina also lists "roughage products" on their feed lists. Triple Crown feeds do not but they are one of the few. Unless something changes, I'll keep them both on it. I'm paid up to go to the BFA futurities in Ft. Smith & OKC this year with the older horse so I'm hoping it pays off!
  13. Sherri Cervi uses a tie down: Sherri Cervi Photo Chad Crider uses a tied down: Chad Crider Pics I used to think that horses that had to have a tie down weren't broke or soft and needed more training. Then I ran finished barrel horse that been used on the feed lots and was a been there done that all around horse. You could wrap your legs on her and she'd round her back. She was soft in the face as well. I tried running her without a tie down -- won't make that mistake again! She was extremely powerful coming out the alley way. If you held her back and didn't have a tie down on her you had a head in your face because she was wanting to run -- you can NOT think about getting one rounded with their head down AND busting down the alleyway when you're starting your run. You just can't. And when it comes time against the clock, the last thing you're going to worry about is a headset. You're going to worry about staying on, making a nice clean turn, and running mock 9. Anything else is incident to. The thing is too that you can tune on one and tune on one where they're perfect but when you start adding TRUE speed you get a totally different animal. Some horses use the tie down to brace or balance against. Then some I think it just helps them keep it together when their nerves are busting out at the seems. I do think there are times that they're used as a crutch instead of a tool but I don't think you can really make a judgement call on it until you've made a white knuckled grip type run down the alleyway.
  14. I agree on teaching one to lower their head as mentioned earlier. That does fix a lot of bridling problems. With my young horses I'll start out handling their mouth and putting my fingers in their mouth. I don't attempt to bit until they're already opening their mouth for me and they're really comfortable with that first. Next step for me is putting a rope in their mouth instead of a bit just to get them used to having something in their mouth. A rope is easier for them to get used to. The step after that is to put a bit in a couple of times and then just let them wear it for a while in a safe environment like a stall or pen and just let them hang out. When bitting up, I'll stick my fingers in the side of their mouth to get them to open up. I don't force the bit in and I make sure I don't bump their teeth. I want it to be comfortable for them. I don't like metal bumping against my teeth so I'm sure they probably don't like it either.
  15. The first one will be hard to keep clean. Also, it depends on your skill level. If you're exceptionally confident, you can get out there and wear colors that will get noticed. However if you're still learning, you don't want a color that really gets you noticed because you'll also be noticed if you're not having a good ride. You want to go with more classic colors in that case. Between the 2 the second one seems like a better option. I will say that for 4H and open shows, don't worry about being under dressed. As long as you have a nice crisp ironed long sleeve shirt you'll be fine. A good judge is just looking to make sure you're clean and neat and wearing a long sleeve collared shirt that's appropriate. Good luck and have fun!