lopen28

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About lopen28

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  • Birthday 07/28/1979

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    Female
  • Location
    Nebraska
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    Riding of course!
  1. My gelding had painful cinch fungus all winter. He gets it every winter. I've used everything I can think of and some things HELP but NONE of them cleared up the problem. I finally sucked it up and bought a bottle of the stuff....and it's worked. It cleared up the fungus in a week. Figure it's pretty handy if you can use it in such a variety of situations. I'll keep it around.
  2. If she's crossfiring, you're not using your legs while loping. You need to drive her hip up keep her hip engaged even at a lope, not just through the transition. Over time she will learn to hold position longer when she builds more muscle for it. But as a young or inexperienced horse, if you aren't asking her to keep her hip there....why should she? Generally as you ride, when you're working a loping cirlce, your inside leg should always be at the cinch (to control the shoulder) and your outside leg should always be back a bit to keep that hip engaged. As for her responding to rein first, that's cause you are probably asking with rein first and she's beating you to it. You need to ask her with seat and legs first and use reins as a back up. My horse will switch directions just off which seat bone I'm pushing harder with into the saddle. So I use my seat first....then my legs....then if he still doesn't respond, I will use stronger leg and rein. Reins need to aide in lots of things and if she only associates it with moving her hip over, you're gonna have issues with lots of other things.
  3. I mostly agree with what everyone is saying here only I want to add that you should never ever EVER walk forward out of the stop. The horse likes to anticipate what we ask them and if you walk out of every stop, the horse will ignore the stop and anticipate walking out. If you back your horse after every stop and then pivot out of it and go the other way, the horse will anticipate needing to stay on it's haunches for this and will stop quicker and easier. The horse that is always walked out of the stop I'm sure wonders....why even stop when we're just going to walk forward out of it....
  4. I agree with everyone else. You need a plan. You also need to ask yourself WHY you are going to breed. Just to get into "breeding reining horses"....that's a tough game. And if you want someone to purchase your babies for reining, you'd better do your research on bloodlines, what it takes mentally and physically for a horse to be prepared to show in reining successfully, and be sure the bloodlines are proven, top and bottom. Breeding for ability in a specific area is a crap shoot anyways...but breeding unproven to unproven will lessen the chances your horse will be successful at anything in particular....you SHOULD care that his sire hasn't done anything. If I were you, I would do some heavy research aside from the business aspect of it. I would travel around and watch many reining trainers work horses...ask questions. Contact other big breeders of reining horses. Ask questions. Learn the bloodlines and become VERY familiar with them and what they've done. Look at big name studs and thier conformation, who they are built...watch videos of them and see how they move. Some big reining studs produce hotter headed horses that would be better open quality horses...some produce quieter, non-pro type horses. What kind of horse do you want to produce for your customers? Are you working on selling to a local market or a more widespread market? Look at reining horses for sale in different areas that you'd like to market to. See what they are selling for, what their bloodlines are and what kind of ability they have so you know what you're up against. As for this particular horse....He IS young so it's hard to say in these pictures. But I see a horse that has a bigger chest than hip. If i want a horse with lots of stopping power, i want to see a good strong hip on that youngster, no matter what age. I an not a fan of his front legs in these pics either. Who knows if he's grown out of it yet but his front pasterns look long-ish to me and he looks a touch over at the knees. As for his bloodlines, his grandsire was big in the cutting pen, but according to allbreed, that's the onlything on top that's relatively close that's done anything. Cutting and reining are very different disciplines and the horses are typically bred a touch hotter...they need an "edge" to cut well. The bottom has nothing that speaks reining at all. I'd say a little pleasure blood with the Zippo Pat Bars. The docs Prescription earned a little in reining and cutting but that's so far back I wouldn't get to excited about it. Other than that, nothing really on the bottom. The reining business is still a competitive market and if you want a GOOD stud....well, you should expect to spend a bit of money still. Quality stud colts in reining have held their value. When it comes to horses in general...cheaper is rarely better. Especially if you're going to breed it. Good luck in your stud shopping!
  5. We hung strips of velcro tape on the walls of our trailer tack and we stick all our splint boots up there. The strips are thin so we hung two, one right above the other. Keeps the boots from floating around all over the place...and if they are sweaty we can stick them on their open to dry too. Super handy.
  6. I'm with the "anti tie down" group on this. A horse that is well trained and moving correctly should not need one. I've also talked to my equine chiropractor...who is AMAZING by the way. To bring up tie downs makes him cringe. He says the worst horses he sees in his business are the horses wearing tie downs. It throws their bodies all out of whack. And the people who use them are wasting their money by having him out to work on their horses because their horses never get any better. So the people who say that their horse needs it to brace against when it's going around barrels....are misinformed. As far as using them for safety...I know a lot of people in the horse/showing/training industry and I've never heard of anyone ever using them for safety. But if it works for ya....
  7. I agree with what everthing everyone said. I will just add a few things... *Go often to spend time with it and ride (like other people said). *If the owner will not hop on the horse and ride it around first to show you how it rides at all gaits, you probably don't want that horse. *Make a list of questions to ask WHILE you ride to ensure that you ride the horse correctly for how that horse has been trained. This way you can be sure you ave the best first ride possible. My horses are ridden with LOTS of leg contact and if a person gets on to ride them with no leg contact, they won't be able to achieve much, ya know? When I tried out one of my horses for the first time, The people didn't give me any guidance. So I asked questions. I found OUT that his voice cues were opposite of most. They kissed to trot and clucked to lope. Think of how confused that horse might have been if I hadn't known that! :) *Try the horse out in the area you want to use it. If you want to trail ride, try to get it out on the trail. If you want to jump it, try it over some small jumps. If you will be trailering it, see how it loads and unloads. Like other people said, there are some sneaky people out there and they will TELL you one thing...."yea this horse loads and has been hauled all over"...but you get it in the trailer and it kicks and throws a fit and rears up while backing out...or whatever other problems it's had. GOod luck!
  8. My vet gave me a drawing salve called "Icthamol" that we used to draw out heat and swelling and pain from the hoof. Soak in epsom salts for as long as he'll stand it.....10 to 15 minutes if possible. Let it dry. Put the icthamol on the bottom of his hoof, then put a patch of the animal lintex over his hoof and wrap it. This helped my gelding a lot with the hoof issues he had.
  9. I did this too. Betadine scrub, peel off the loose scabs, put on some neosporine and coat it with athlete's foot spray. Took it off my mare's foot in a hurry.
  10. In the winter it's very difficult to keep an indoor arena watered. I've known people who added salt to their sand. Salt holds moisture and keeps the dust down. We just tried it. I can let you know how it works once we start using our indoor more. You have to add the salt and then water it.
  11. It's not about the bloodlines. It's the people who raise it and the environment it's raised in. There are certain bloodlines that have certain quirks, but aggressive, nasty, dangerous behavior is a learned behavior, not natural. I think a horses natural mentality is greatly based on how it was raised and who is handling it. You will find mean nasty aggressive horses in every bloodline, just as you will find sweet perfect little angels, motivated hard workers or junkie flunkies. Depends on who's doin the training. JMO.
  12. I have a 14.1hh reiner and at the shows it seems like ALL the other horses are bigger! So I'd say there would be plenty of bigger reiners to choose from. Good luck!
  13. Definitely a NO on that guy. I have a chiro for my reiner...he was having lead change issues as well as engaging his hind end in his spins. My chiro is AMAZING and has made a HUGE difference in my horse....and he's never used a rubber mallet. Just his hands and acupuncture needles. That's it. That guy sure sounded frightening....
  14. Just dittoing what everyone else said, but wanted to add something. In the left lead loping video, she is crossfiring almost the whole time. She's got the lead in the front but not the back. Work on getting better hip control and that should solve your problem. If the training isn't the issue then I'd say she has a weak or sore hind end. But I'm guessing it's a baby thing.
  15. If you're just going to trail ride, I'd just put him in a snaffle a roll with that! But I think ALL horses should be able to ride comfortably and responsively in a snaffle. But if he's just plain used to something more, I would get something basic like this. It also would depend on the type of hands and feel YOU have as a rider. http://cgi.ebay.com/Greg-Darnall-Loomis-Shank-Snaffle-7-16_W0QQitemZ230371854861QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0