missyclare

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About missyclare

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    Ontario, Canada

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  1. Lopsided Hoof

    Yes, you can get the bar back to where it belongs beside the groove, by scraping it back following the dirt line. Establish the ramp heights by using the material you have to create the ramps. It will look like a ramp situated lower down on the cliff. Get all the material that runs beside the groove down to where the arrows indicate. Then on the outside, it should be flat if you scraped back on the bars at the beginning, just add a little shape to make the bar and sole meld together, following the suggestion of these contour lines. Hope this helps...
  2. Lopsided Hoof

  3. Lopsided Hoof

    Wow! The bar on the left....its a bar block that has spawned 3 blocky babies on the outside of it. Serious discomfort. When the material in front of where the bar ramp begins, does not lead into it nicely and is no longer supported by the ramp itself, its a jam straight into the corium. See the black that I've removed and where. It's still not a perfect sunset and is going to have to be a work in progress. Know this foot well for the next couple of trims.
  4. Lopsided Hoof

  5. Lopsided Hoof

    Oops, my big blue dots aren't there, lol! I'll have a look at the other feet, just give me time....
  6. Lopsided Hoof

    Ok, you're gonna have to study this one. First I defined the heel height which the sand has webbed over with the frog and hidden it from you, so you could see the heel pillar roots and how they are now both the same height. I've left the height of the left one alone, but re-shaped it as it goes around and leaves the heel. The right one shows a thin curved red line of your old heel and blue lines showing the direction of the rasp strokes. Reverse the rasp in your hand and pull straight back towards yourself, rotating the rasp outward as you go forward. This expands the heel area and gives a strong back shape to the heels. Notice how the old heel goes up and up. As you are rotating and going around, stay level with the heel pillar height and don't allow this. This is how you got higher on this side. Just stay level and keep following the sole line. The heel should take on the shape of my lines instead. The center line shows where the run of the frog should be to 12 o'clock. Put these two lines together (heel balance line and sole line) and imagine that the heel balance line is the horizon on water and that the inner line (sole line) going around the hoof is the perfect sunset on that horizon. That's balance. The green represents 2 things in this view. One is how much it needs to be lowered shown by the thin red lines and the other is flare. Because this pic is not right behind the middle of the hoof and out of balance it looks wonky, but just focus on the sole line, where it is and bring everything down level with it. You should be able to close your eyes, run your thumb up off the sole, feel a direction change that's flat to ground and flat/even...straight on out from there. That's obeying the sole. Then put the bevel on. From 10-2 o'clock at the toe, the bevel should leave the inner wall intact and level with the sole, beveling at a 45 degrees on out. Past 10 and 2, on the sides, the leading edge of the bevel should fade out to only take the outer half of the wall away in bevel. On the left side, the wall is thin, so basically, just tweaking the outside corner off it. So first find your heel balance line and the sole line. Balance and shape the heels, follow the sole and get everything level with the sole line. The green shows where its high and how much. Then apply the bevel. Now the bars. The bar ramps should merge from the sole half way back on the frog and meet the heel pillars dead on. See their shape. Their surface is also flat to ground (white) and actually look like ramps. The thin red lines show how much they need to come down from the existing. The ramps need to be established. The height of the material in front of the ramps, needs to lead in nicely to the ramps, but is a sensitive place, so slivers done gradually over a week. The material outside of the bars, should be slivered gently to meld their heights together, with the white contour lines in mind. Anytime your inner voice says, quit/enough, then do so. The continued thrush care will help a lot. Just come back in a few days and see how much things have opened up, filled in with the frog, sole that's been exfoliated and how much less you actually have to do. By rights, which you can't see, is that I am probably lowering the right side of the hoof about 1/4" at its worst. But check on this as you go....hang the foot, lean forward, see the big blue dots and check to see if they are balanced with each other across the correct run of the frog. . That's balance too.The frog will quickly get its own ducks in order with this change. This is a correcting trim, so go slow and look, look look. I don't think that there will be any rasping from the top necessary at this point. Preserve the wall width you have and have faith in the bevel to hold the fort in the meantime. Hope this helps...
  7. Lopsided Hoof

    (Top left...pic 1, Top right...pic 2, Bottom left..pic 3, Bottom right...pic 4) This is "what is" to show you what you are looking at. The reason that I say sand is congesting, is because it melds things together and makes it harder to see things. Coming in from pasture, soaking for thrush, then looking/easier trimming will help, if not enough, then take pics, go to the computer and take all the time you need to see and form a plan. Pic 1...the darker band below the coronary band is new/better/well connected growth coming down. Keep doing what you are doing with the tweaking and when it reaches the ground, you will have arrived. The lines on the hoof wall are signs of imbalance, how its jamming all the way up to soft tissue. It's the inside that is high. (note the profile of the hoof wall in pic 3. This causes discomfort, horse avoids, weights the outside which is being jammed up, hence the hoof wall lines on the lateral side. Note how the width of sole is narrower on the lateral side of the frog and flared on the inside. What I call the jam and splat effect. Medial/lateral imbalance. The bevel is also a 90 degree and inconsistent going around the hoof. The 90 leaves a sharp edge on the ground, which still pulls, thins the wall at the toe where torque is the greatest and when the hoof rolls over it, (breakover) the support is just gone. A 45 applied from the bottom of the hoof sees the horse breaking over ON that bevel, that pushes the toe back to where it belongs with every step and works for you in movement, the breakover flows better, is smoother, the width of the wall remains intact for full protection and improves the concert of all 4 feet. Pic 3...If you hold the hoof from the front of the pastern, let it hang and lean forward for this same view, what you get is the run of bone and how the hoof is balanced to that run. You get the truth on what balance means to the horse and how its being delivered to the ground by that run of bone that the hoof must be a perfect extension of. You should get a straight line from ergot, thru middle of frog, to 12 o'clock at the toe. You can see by the turn in that line, that imbalance begins at the heels. Note the profile of the hoof wall itself, how it creeps higher on the right side. Note how the frog is not pointing to 12, that its not on an even keel, but banking like an airplane on a turn to the left. So, the run of the frog should be straight from toe to ergot, the balance lines crossing should be perfectly perpendicular (high sides on those lines have dots) These are all symptoms of imbalance. The don'ts? Don't touch the frog. You need every bit of callous for that sand, only flaps, which you have none of. Don't touch the sole. Concavity has to be earned and will get its own ducks in order. All the parts and pieces work together like pages in a book. The sole is the binding of that book that keeps the story organized and tells you the most. You trim it, you are ripping pages out of the book, flying blind and increasing the risk for soreness. So don't touch, read it and know it, earn it and obey it. The sole tells you what the hoof wants and obeying it puts the balance right in line, no worries. This is what is, I will continue to work on the pics, takes time, gotta do chores, will be back.
  8. Lopsided Hoof

    Hey. Hi Jubal! I'm here. Firstly, I see a nice hoof a straight run, despite the paddling and a nice trim and someone that is doing their homework, which is really nice to see. Keep up with the thrush treatments, firstly. The central sulcis should be a mere thumbprint depression sitting on top of the frog, not a crack that runs thru the body of the frog and defining the the two different heel bulbs. The back of the hoof from the hairline down should be solid mass with the heel bulbs built into that mass. Cracks that harbor thrush have a leading edge of infection that is down at the bottom of that crack. As it heals, it heals from the bottom up with that crack getting shallower as it goes. So there is a way to go on that war and the front line is at the bottom of that crack, any crack. I also have a tool box for different methods of fighting thrush as well. In dry conditions, I soak in vinegar/water, borax/water. Always not soaking enough to generally soften the hoof and in your case, always thinking about the sand in that arena. In wet conditions, its No Thrush, which even works for rain rot on skin and go to stalling on shavings for a few hours clean and dry/then medicating and turning out. My cleaning tools are a long handled kitchen brush, tooth brushes and even Q-Tips, in order to get clean down to bottom of any cracks. You can even medicate cotton balls and stuff them into the cracks while out on pasture and have them working for you. When they start to fall out, then you're getting somewhere. The best defense against thrush is air and getting spanking clean and a trim that lets that air in. As for the sand. It has its advantages and disadvantages. Its abrasive and congesting but will toughen. The better surface would be walking on asphalt, so if you have such a driveway, warming up on it for 15 minutes before heading to the arena, would be good. As I advise you, I'm always going to thinking of that sand. I like your trim and you are doing great. Obeying the sole and tweaking often is the way to go, which avoids big changes that can sore. These are nice hooves, with no great pathology. All the parts and pieces are pretty much where they belong and your trim obeys the sole. You are doing fine, so keep doing what you're doing. What I'm going to show you, is to see shape, what it means and why its there and how to see it. Give me some time....I'l be back.
  9. Support for a Scarred Hoof

    Yup, what jubal said, lol! Out of the grass, cleaned up, front shot, heel shot, solar shot, side shot and definitely a shot from the back. His hoof looks like its got a decent trim on there, from what I can tell and it also looks like it healed beautifully.
  10. Haven't been on in years

    I too am having problems at the moment. Walter just came up lame in both fronts and is standing like a laminitic., but moreso, he is lifting his heels off the ground to relieve tension. I have determined so far, that it is his ddfts that have been strained. It's very icy here and even though I have taken measures to avoid it, Murphy's Law rules anyway. A couple of winters ago, it was his sacroilliac that he threw out. That was a long term recovery/treatment of 7 months. I'm braced for the long term in recovery also, with tendons involved. (sigh) I also find it very discouraging to think of a vet being incorrect. The vet is my savior. I want him to be my savior. I've had my vet for 35 years, he is my friend/mentor. But in the sacro-illiac case, his advise caused a 3 month delay in diagnosis. His visit amounted to giving me heck for his heels being too short and a brewing abscess, which they were not and no abscess happened. Poor Wally went with his RH in the air 24/7 for two months while he investigated and was stuck on the abscess idea. I left him and called in a chiro and the healing began. Another time, it was his eye. 2 prescriptions later for eye drops, I left him and went to a homeopathic people doctor and his medication starting healing the second I applied it. Thank goodness eyes are universal! Jubal, if there is any chance of founder from anything, I wouldn't even go there. Depends, if your horse is sensitive, it could be traumatic. If there ever was a time to say a flat no to the vet for something, this would be it for me, no hesitation. It has largely been replaced by the ACTH + glucose + leptin test, that will give you the numbers you need without challenging anything. Right now its just a suspicion, so just hang on for awhile and stay observant, see how the coat sheds in spring. In the meantime, I would do the same things people with Cushings/IR horses do for treatment. I don't want to go there, so I treat mine like they already are. Balance the diet and tighten it down in terms of Iron, sugar and starch. ((notice that I said iron first?) Stay on top of the trim and keep an eye on the hoof and move. Mine are not allowed to just have their hunger, they must earn it, whether it be through exercise or having to walk all over the place to find the hay that I spread far and wide. Their apple-a-day gets thrown a 100' and they are made to go fetch them...anything to make them move and earn. Another thought is that too high protein will overwork the kidneys also.
  11. Haven't been on in years

    Oh, I'm around. Funny how life will catch you up and carry you away. I keep checking in. I look at it, like we are all smarter these days and that's a good thing. I also wish to thank you all for the appreciation, it's the best Christmas present ever! Really it is! There are certainly many peers around and I'm glad that I was able to help with what I can. I've been dissed so many times in my travels, but I don't care. I'm here for the horse. Here, still, I am home. Actually, it seems that a lot of the forums are lean these days, that everyone has turned to Facebook, or something. That they may have found more agreeable niches in a smaller gathering. I believe Equisearch has pulled their forum altogether. The Chronicle is lively and well informed, but they do things differently and think differently, so I've decided to leave them alone, but I do go there to read and sometimes get frustrated. So, since we've created a kind of drop-in here, tell me, what's up with life these days? How are the hooves doing? I've been busy lately, as Grandchildren are being born right, left and center and I find myself struggling to keep up with the "new occasions" that have doubled and am learning to become a responsible Grandparent as well. As for my hooves, lol! We're battling very icy conditions coating the whole hill that is my barn and barnyard. It is too large an area to deal with, so I must avoid it. As long as I've got an escape route, I'm good. Keeping their space enlarged and continuing to move, is the challenge. We've been going for walks (1 mile) down the driveway to stay loose and I've been wishing they made YaxTrax for horses, cause they certainly are a blessing to me. I'm tempted to take mine off and put them on a hoof as an experiment. They're completely stretchy, lol! The hay is grass hay, but is tending to loosen them up somewhat, so I doubled the yeast and things are better. Other than that, we're lazing in the sun and thinking about Missyclare. I have her pic on my start-up page and I don't think I'll ever take her off, no matter how many Grandchildren are born. I'll save the walls for that, lol! Let's see, who else was around then....Ared Horse and Lyra, Cowgirl Up and Tubby, Versace, who was a long story, Flying Stars and Gunner, who I imagine is not so little anymore, J Mock, Lassie Lu, One Grey Horse and Moose, Ricky Sweet Smoke, Smiley, who is still around and very helpful, Rosie, This Is It, and ofcourse, special mention to Hero and Godsgirl, who we tried valiantly to save a horse with cancer and we both went thru a special kind of he**. Life goes on....just trying to make things the best they can be while we're around....
  12. Today I Learned....

    Austrailia has just banned the use of whips in training and racing with harness horses. Norway had banned it earlier, but theirs came down from the government, triggered by welfare legislation. In Australia the order came down from the national racing authority itself. No more, will tired horses be whipped in the name of sport.
  13. Hoof Problems

    Pictures would be great. A shoe won't prevent an abscess and it depends on where that abscess is, that will tell why and how it formed....like overgrown bars, frog out of work, thrush, diet imbalance, trim imbalance, too much alfalfa, IR or Cushings, too much or too little selenium, too much sugar, starch and iron. Some things on the hoof can be weak and let the ground hurt it. Some things can be prominent and meet the ground head on for a double whammy. Somethings are internal and metabolic and they are all related. You need good balanced nutrition to grow a strong hoof. You need to fight thrush because nothing can develop and strengthen when thrush is eating the hoof away at the same time. You need a good balanced trim and maintain it. You need to move to work that trim and develop strength. 4" deep gravel, either pea gravel or crushed limestone...around the water trough, in gateways, run-in, preferred pathways, etc. The thrush will be better managed, the self trimming will be better managed and the development fantastic. When a hoof does its homework on rocks, it becomes rock crushing which means it crushes rocks instead of the other way around. The shoes would have to come off in order to achieve this, but if you did, then you could hang the shoe up above the barn door and smile at it when you pass. Shoes and imbalance and contracted heels, and elongated breakover = thin soles, which is an abscess waiting to happen. Quarters jamming up, is a hoof that is already jammed up by his descending weight, never mind the ground. It's biotin that takes months to show up in new stronger growth coming down from the coronary band. It's copper and zinc without iron, that strengthens the hoof AT the ground. You'll see the effects of copper are a lot faster than biotin. Copper strengthens the wall, the water line and the cross connections that give the hoof its flexible strength and that's what you want on those rocks. Between the copper and the gravel, thrush doesn't have a chance. Copper will also give him his original coat color, never to fade in the sun again. Minerals like California Trace, fed, to make sure they get them. The blocks are mere bonus and will never meet their needs alone. Yes, I do suspect the rocks, but also hooves that can't handle them and yes, they can. I would keep them off the hill until their feet are stronger and abscesses resolved. It doesn't sound like they are missing much out there and if the grass is sparce, then what else is growing? I'd be going for a walk out there. Seed heads are like sugar pills, weeds are higher in sugar, stressed grass is higher in sugar, so are any areas of lush growth. I'd start with the gravel, though and if the sore foot had to be booted for a bit, so be it, let the other three feet get started in the meantime. It is a journey, and best for you to decide when to take it, but you'll never look back. Oh, and as for road work, if you can, head for the middle, where the crown is free of rocks. Asphalt is magic also. At this point, the gravel shoulder would just be more insult. A hoof has to develop its toughness in degrees and stones are graduation. It's then, that you have a rock crushing hoof. Hope this helps....
  14. Today I Learned.....

    How infection spreads in the bloodstream. It's like white water rafting, only the ride is too wild and the bacteria have specific places to go and can't afford to be simply washed away, so they creep down the side walls, bonding to cells for hold, breaking them and then rebonding again. Like going hand over hand down a ladder. I am reminded of two things. One is because I'm a Trekkie and imagined the Zindi crawling forward on the ceiling and walls of Enterprise, lol! and that this is the same way that a part of hoof growth slides down from the coronary band. What a mimic this bacteria is! Designed just for you.
  15. Interesting.....

    A horse with complex problems and sensitivity because of those problems, I think the boot would definitely help, but its not a therapeutic boot at all. Pads are needed in the boots. This boot is simple protection and not promoting a better foot.