missyclare

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Everything posted by missyclare

  1. Pete Rameys New Book

    If you haven't read this book from stem to stern atleast 3 times, shame on you! It's not a cheap book, but worth every penny in information. The first chapter and the culmination of all the wild horse studies together was a real eye opener. The chapters with Dr. Kellon is a basic knowledge of the nutrition course I took and is a good start. Pete's chapters at the back, I found old hat, but it is the basic truth of it and I read it again, so it could be driven into my head again. All the authors of these chapters are at the very top of the game and all the words spoken are pure gold. I just wish it wasn't so big and cumbersome to handle in order to read it. I had to create a hoof stand for the book, lol!
  2. Good to hear! Congratulations! In the pic, I imagine, that if she is doing a lot of jumping, those hinds are getting worked. I see great definition in the stifles in this pic. I would like to ask your opinion on the Keratex. It sounds like its been an easy solution to the problem of getting on and riding and sensitivity. Confidence promotes proper movement and that's a good thing. It will take 2-3 months to grow that sole to the proper thickness again. I wanted to ask you if you are seeing any changes to the sole from the continued application of Keratex. Not in this case, but a hoof with low P3 and false sole involved makes me wonder if it would be cast in preserved rigidity and not be allowed to slough out if it needs to. I wonder if although it hardens the sole, if it changes it, compromising the ground layer of sole already thin? Over time, have you ever thought to yourself, ok, this application of Keratex is getting tired on the hoof and needs to stop? Are you seeing a healthy sole being promoted over time or are you seeing a deadened surface that is not healthy and vibrant? There's no doubt that it gets people riding right away and that's going make them happy, but what about the hoof?
  3. Hoof Sealer

    I am not a fan of Keratex. It has formalin (formaldehyde) in it and I'm loathe to put this stuff on live tissue. Maybe it will lock moisture in the hoof, but why would you want to do that? Dry is tough. The hoof has its own waxes and oils to do the job of moisture regulation all on its own. A hoof that has changes in moisture due to ground conditions will change and adapt within the hour. The hoof breathes incredibly, why would I want to suffocate this feature? I suspect that the lack of moisture in the hoof is because of lack of circulation, not ground conditions. The reason that the hooves won't hold a nail, is because of the nutrition. Especially copper and zinc, also threonine, methionine, selenium and biotin. It sounds like hoof quality has been affected and you need some trace minerals in the diet. If she had been trimmed to the barefoot trim that promoted healthier function these past 4 years, she should be transitioned long ago and had a rock crushing foot for the last 3 years. Sounds like that has not happened. Its possible that she has had a pasture trim all this time that's for a shoe and not for the horse. If the hoof is not functioning properly, the circulation can be diminished greatly, which means its not getting fed and crumbling. So the trim is important too. If you are going into winter, I would opt for boots for protection and definitely not shoes. This is vacation time for the feet, to catch up from the detrimental effects of the shoes all summer. You can also speak to Trinity about casting, which is another option. The boots with pads are a simple way to boost transition in half the time....if you do your homework on thrush, movement, nutrition and staying on top of the trim. Another great promoter to rock crushing feets is pea gravel. 4" deep in places where she hangs out, around the water trough, gateways, etc. With her having access to pea gravel is her doing homework while not being ridden and when you ride, the boots will protect. Soon, she won't need the boots anymore. Putting her on pea gravel will give her the feet that will laugh at the gravel out there. It also drains better, keep her high and dry and helping greatly to eliminate thrush. I have to admit that I'm having a hard time agreeing with what this farrier has told you.
  4. Josey's Front Hooves

    She needs a good set up trim. These pictures are not telling me what I need to see on the bottom of the hoof. We are only as good as your pictures. If you are going to work on these feet, you'll need good pics with lines and a lot of talking inbetween. You can't use the existing trim as a template. You need to trim differently to promote the change to better function. Her heels are long and the digital cushion has sagged in between them. It will be important that you get the trim right, then lots of movement to develop, because you must get development in the back of the hoof or you have nothing. While you lower the heels gradually, the frog will slowly get put to work, while you heal the thrush and the frog can get ready to face the ground together with the heels when they arrive and not be sore instead. The heels are also forward of her descending weight, so they need to be pulled back as they are lowered. The breaks that you see on her heel bulbs are soft tissue and they are wounded, so yes, they are sore. The next occurrence will be abscessing, and really set you back, so get her on kinder/drier ground if you can and treat these too, along with the thrush. I see that she also has a tunnel cut out of her toe surface on the RF. How did that happen? There's serious rings around both her hooves also, so I wonder if this trauma happened with the hind tendon injury? What was the nature of this accident? How long has she been on stall rest? What has the vet had to say? I guess what we need is a short, precise history because there are some issues we need to understand, including what she's eating these days. The bottom line on the hinds, is that if her hooves are not balanced, you are aggravating that tendon further. Which foot? The LR has a negative palmer angle going on. That gives me immediate concern for that tendon. You need to work on all these feet, especially the hinds. You need to make them the best they can be in the face of this injury and getting it healed, so avoiding them is definitely not good. Try to get better pictures according to the sticky at the top and treat for thrush in the meantime. Solar shots, heel shots (not so severe as these, need to see the toe well in the background, so a little less steep on the angle) Also solar/side shots, cause I want to see the depth of the groove at the apex. Side shots with camera on the ground, 3 feet away and centered on the middle of the hoof from toe to heel. Include heel shots, solar shots and side shots of the hinds as well. If you have Clean Trax, go ahead. I'd do it again in 5 days as well. Clean her feet meticulously beforehand. Soak the hoof in vinegar and water for a few minutes and then scrub with Dawn Dish soap and a scrub brush, toothbrush, Q-Tips, whatever it takes to get really clean as far down into the hoof as you can. The Q-Tips are a gentle way to explore/clean and you must get the bottom of any cracks or narrow places really clean or thrush will hide down there and continue, while you think everything is fine of the surface. Get that hoof clean enough to eat off of, then do the Clean Trax soak. On the other days that you are not doing the Clean Trax, clean diligently again and spray with vinegar every day. Is her bedding being kept clean and dry? Clean and dry are your main thoughts on fighting this thrush. After you've soaked the fronts, switch the soak to the hinds and do them as well. The more diligent you are on the thrush, the faster/better the hoof will respond. Will wait for the pics.
  5. Interesting Information About Honey

    We have been discussing the benefits of raw honey and its applications in the past. I was discussing about honey with the vet the other day and he said it didn't matter whether it was pasteurized or raw, the benefits were the same. He suggested I use it to finish up the healing of a cut that just had stitches removed. It did an excellent job, by the way. I also had the opportunity today, to speak to a honey producer and asked him the same question and he confirmed that raw or processed, the benefits of honey did not change. So, you can go to your kitchen cupboard for the honey and it will work just fine.
  6. Tennessee Walkers....

    http://www.humanesociety.org/news/press_releases/2012/09/jackie_mcconnell_sentencing_response_091812.html I feel destined to keep updating this post. Things are happening and its good news....I think... Do you think a $75,000 fine is going to hit Jackie where he lives? I'm disappointed in the probation. I'd rather see him permanently removed from the horse world.
  7. Changing Barns - Worried About Nsc Level...+ Vent

    I remember your tale of woe at this barn and am glad that your are moving. Not being fed enough, feed missing, wait time for stalls, a lot of rain and wetness, and one problem after another with your horse. Do you still have this horse in your sig? I would decline this feed for more reasons that I can count...the prime reason being the molasses. The iron has not been listed and the ingredient list stinks of iron. You can be sure the molasses is upping the NSC and also the iron. All other values, except protein are all inadequate/imbalanced and not even maintenance worthy. Thing is, if she's not being ridden much and is close to maintenance, she doesn't need this feed anyway. If the hay is good, and being fed at 2% of her body weight, then its good. What I would do is to ask her if you could provide her with your own feed. I wouldn't go and buy a bag of feed either, just to add more iron. I would prepare 5 baggies at a bag/day... zip-lock baggies for her to simply dump and feed. In it would be a daily supply of minerals, 6oz of ground flax, 1 cup of rolled oats, 1tbn. of salt, 1/3rd cup of Diamond V Yeast and 4-400IU of vitamin E people gelcaps. A baggie a day, dump and go for her. Barring this, I'd get my own store bought feed that's low in sugar/starch/iron and get her to feed it. If she insists on the molasses feed, then I would decline boarding there. There's going to be a serious glucose rise every time this stuff is fed and you're well on the way to IR. These high end show horses may be burning it, but at a lighter workload, it will be burning your horse instead and making her too hot for your daughter. You also need to be concerned about weaning her on the new hay as well. If you can grab a couple of flakes of the old, to mix with the new, this would help the transition to the new hay. Its the NDF differences in hays that can cause upset. Don't let this change upset you. Look forward to it. I know I am. Always insist on being allowed to advocate for your horse. I think you know better about feeding than both these barn owners. Don't let anyone cut you off at the knees from the get go. It is your right to advocate for your horse. 2 flake feedings and 1/2 a 3qt. scoop tells me absolutely nothing. Both should be weighed and not one horse's metabolism is the same as the next either. The place with the pasture boarding sounds more attractive, actually.
  8. New Pics, Finally

    There has been some serious imbalance going on, but its correcting and you're doing a good job. I outlined the bars and the heel platforms to reveal them and give you an idea of just how high the bars are heels still are. Also, if you compare the edge of the sole to the existing wall height, you can see that there's more wall standing above the sole than the right side. The wall height must obey the sole and be even with it all the way around. Don't trust your eyes entirely. Close them and run your thumb over sole/wall and off and you should feel no difference in their heights...dead even all the way around....now you automatically have balance all the way around. Note the shape and height on the scarred left heel on the left. Note the shape of the top of the platform that hits the ground. Now note the shape of heel platform after the trim. The vertical lines that outline that heel have a line down the middle to show the run of the break in that surface. The actual width of the heel platform is twice as wide and the surface of my line extends flat all the way across it. This shape is important, because it brings the two halves together and adds strength. I also brought it down more than the right one to find balance. I trimmed the bulged part off the wall (solid yellow) and showed the big bevel that Trinity is talking about. This one is a rough rendition, because the shot was not taken directly from the side. I put what the toe is supposed to be in the long run, but I'm not concerned with it right now. Need to get the heels squared away (pun intended, lol) so that when the bevel brings the weight back on those heels, they are ready for the job. Plus, I need a solar shot to really evaluate the toe anyway. The bottom line on the hoof is you getting that heel balanced and following the sole. The result is that the heel will be pulled back, facing the ground and more under the descending weight. The coronary band will relax and straighten out, taking the brunt off the weak area. (clearing the quarters) The 2nd line parallel to the back of the new heel is the actual heel. Do you see how the existing heel has run forward well into the quarter area? This, plus the higher heel, plus the excessive bars is what is jamming up the band. I will await for other pics as well.
  9. Very interesting! Thanks for posting!
  10. Faraon Up-Date

    The bars and the whole interior of this foot looks good. You can tell the difference between bar and sole by taking a small sliver of it and bending it between your thumb and finger. Sole will break, bar won't, its tougher. You won't need to touch these bars again, unless you see excess. This foot is a good example of what you want to see. So this pic is a keeper for you. Anytime that you do feel that there is excess compared to this pic, it will be because there is not enough movement wearing them out, despite the ground conditions and you will know that you need to get back to this pic. But, only a paper thin sliver at a time. Expect it to take several trims to get back to this pic. You are doing a great job. The best thought to have is that if something is bothering you, like trying to make a quarter crack go away, is to not go after it. They have to grow out....patience. Remember to obey the sole. Get the wall down even with the sole and flat to ground first, then apply the bevel. The rule of thumb is that on the quarters (sides) is to leave inner half of the wall intact with the sole. This leaves support at the quarters. Taking the outer half of the wall away in bevel is what will relieve the crack. Going lower on the wall height is not the answer if you have obeyed the sole. Lowering the wall further, will just cause medial/lateral imbalance with the other side and bring the wing of P3 down closer to the ground on that side. (this you have not done) The rule of thumb for the bevel, is that between 10-2 o'clock at the toe, leave a hair of the white line attached to the sole and bevel on out from there. On the side, fade the bevel out to only take the outer half of the wall away in bevel. Most of us are dealing with flare, but this foot is different. The bevel helps to control flare and keep torque off the wall. You don't have flare on the sides, the hoof is pinched inward from the band down to the ground, giving him a smaller footprint than should be. A severe bevel on the sides will continue this scenario. You want to leave the inner 1/2 of the wall on the sides intact for support and good establishment of the footprint there. This will encourage the foot to widen and walls to come vertically straight down from the band to the ground. The bevel itself takes the torque off the wall and relieves that crack...have faith in it. Always know your parts and pieces and where that leading edge of the bevel should be in relation. Do you see by the red lines on the wall, that his hoofprint is smaller than it should be? Once this widens out and the circumference of the hoof increases, it will help the heels to widen out and define themselves from the frog further. The heels and frogs should be separated enough from each other, that you can see the groove coming out the back right between them and you are making progress on this. The inset pic shows the shape at the quarters that should be left after the bevel is applied. The slanted line on the right is the sole coming up and the edge of sole is where it meets the white line (white). Then the inner half of the wall is left intact, even with the sole and facing the ground. This becomes his foot print there. Then you bevel the outer half of the wall away to remove the torque on the crack. This shape is what you maintain to clear the quarters, establish the footprint facing the ground, keep the torque off the wall and that crack and encourage the heels to widen. Always be aware that your rasp is at a 45 degree angle when doing the bevel, don't get steeper on it. 45 is all it takes and gives back to you. In the interest of widening the hoofprint also, The bevel at the quarters should start on the quarters and not carry on back to include the sides of the heel platforms. The heel platforms should be straight, flat and square across the backs of them, with the bevel on the sides starting at the quarters, in front of the heel platforms. That's going to give him a solid heel platform and footprint to land on when the toe bevel brings his weight back on them, which also helps to open thing up and widen. The balance on the heels are fine. Don't sweat that either. They've been buried in a huge solid wall all across the back of the foot and you've done a good job considering its been hard to see them. Your goals are to continue to pull back on the heels and keep them facing the ground until the toe pull stops pulling them forward and maintaining the bevel at the toe to continue to lessen and get that pull gone. You're doing great. Don't sweat things. Find patience instead. Your job is to coax and let him move and do his homework in between trims. So, if something is frustrating you, either come here and ask, or walk away for a bit and see what he does with it. This is where the amazing part comes in....
  11. How Many Calories Do You Think You Burn Trimming?

    Hey Storey, do come back and tell us how it went. As I understand it, it takes a long distance of walking to pay for a piece of cake, but trimming sure feels like it burns calories faster. Is there a difference in the calorie burn for higher intensity exercise? I sure know I'm losing electrolytes in this drought. This will be interesting to find out. What do think a typical trim is? Trinity, with your regular horses, what kind of growth are you seeing on your return visit? A 1/4" of wall growth and some bars to re-shape? 20 minutes? I think if you have a rock hard hoof on dry ground conditions, you could double the effort. (or in my case, maybe its about time for a new rasp, lol!)
  12. Fodder- Hay/feed Analysis People Please!

    Good observation, QuarterMutt!
  13. Just Wanted To Say..

    LOL! What fun! I hope you came out with a treat for them, or atleast some coin, so he could get into that machine outside!
  14. Just Wanted To Say..

    You're welcome! Glad to hear they are doing well! As payment for all our hard work, I want to see body shots and candid pics of the guys whose feets I only know, lol!
  15. Fodder- Hay/feed Analysis People Please!

    I don't like the word ruminants either. I don't want any horse feed coming from anywhere near where cow feed has been mixed. Cows are front end fermenters and built to burp it forward. A horse cannot. They are hind end fermentors. Once he's swallowed, he must live with the consequences. If one of those consequences is Rumensin....big consequences. The protein is sky high. No lysine, so throw the protein out the window. Starch is a ridiculous 15.4%!(no need for a sugar count, IR here we come anyway!) Measly copper, no zinc and nice load of bad iron. Sulfur also impedes mineral absorption. The starch and sulfur shut me down right there. I guess barley sprouts are not the answer. The site shows its largely based in Austrailia and being fed to cows as well. In terms of drought and hay problems, the nutrients can be supplemented...flax, vitamins, minerals, yeast, salt etc. To replace the hay means to replace the bulk of a horse's daily diet......the FIBER. Soy hulls, beet pulp and hay extenders, etc. Maybe some day, they will give horses their own niche and create a recipe that will compliment their digestive systems....for horses in North America, that is.
  16. Pretty Frustrated...

    You've always been hitting the nail on the head with telling them to stay on top of the trim and balanced. A farrier should come and trim the horse with those rads in hand. Get rid of the low slung/toe way out there scenario and you stop the navicular related aggravation. If she is well trimmed for what is right for her, then she will be alright, period. Hopefully, now that they have gone to the vet, then proper help will be put into action.
  17. Bringing Back The "black"

    Yes Story, it is copper, copper and zinc. Selenium is another important one. Bleaching happens as an after effect of copper deficiency. By the time the bleaching occurs, the damage has long been done and the sun is just showing it up. If the iron is high, it negates copper and zinc uptake and makes them deficient. What you need is a mineral supplement that is adequate in copper and zinc and no iron, so that they can be metabolized. I had a horse come to me as a bay and left 4 months later as jet black. He was in the summer sun the whole time. No use feeding the copper and zinc if the iron is high. Feeding copper and zinc and getting it past the iron will give him the coat color he was born with and no more bleaching. Unlike paprika or cinnamon, this is basic horse nutrition and copper is also for connective tissue, so good for strong feet as well. http://www.californiatrace.com/ingredients.html Make sure there is no stress from the weaning. This could have lost some weight. She should have a buddy to lean on. I think its more important that she has lots of hay, water and lots of movement for development. Yes, lots of movement. She will earn her appetite and eat accordingly, grow and develop. Keep it simple. Sorry you have to be away so long. I hope the barn owner will send you an occasional picture. It sounds like he's been very generous with this breeding situation....make sure he sticks to it by continuing to care well for this filly....keep him talking about any changes or problems until you come back.
  18. Trimming A 15 Month Old Colt

    His getting sore is enough for me. Leave it alone. Move, wear it out and always listen. Don't touch the sole anywhere, especially in that area. Move and develop instead, then he's taking care of his own feet. He must earn concavity.
  19. Update On Ladybug (Story's Give Away From 2010)

    Well, she certainly has some frogs now! Well done! I like happy endings!
  20. Chilli's Hooves **update/pics Posts 26 & 27**

    If the pics on page one is the current trim, then that's a good hoof and a good trim. Palpate above the hoof too...all the way up. She may have pulled something.
  21. Chilli's Hooves **update/pics Posts 26 & 27**

    I would check and replace every 24 hours, always keeping an eye on things. Always obey the sole when you place the bevel. Give the thrush a chance to heal. The bevel will set her back on her heels and you don't want them thrush sore when it gets there. She'll go right back on her toes again and avoid...defeated. So no rush on the bevel, get the jump on the thrush first for a few days, actually, even longer. Let her adjust to this trim and get over the hump. If she was that sensitive with the boots on and 2 layers of padding, this concerns me. You can be sure that she's not that comfortable on grass or hard dirt...just getting along a little better. Please do post pics. New pads every 24 hours also. Keep her cushioned. It's the pressure/release action that the hoof likes.
  22. Any Experience With This Supplement?

    Well, the answer to that one is not blood thinners, but 4" of Pea Gravel. Put him on rocks to give him rock crushing feets and go the final mile with the development that truly sees you graduate transition. Pea gravel is smooth and acts like bean bag. When the horse sinks into it, it supports below and strengthens the hoof from all directions. It develops and trims the hoof, fights thrush beautifully and gives you feets that are ready to go, anytime.
  23. Any Experience With This Supplement?

    Sorry Felda, my mistake. I couldn't find the ingredients for it, can you post a link? The term "proprietary" (Flow-ox) means their secret and you're not going to find out. It does have excellent reviews, though. I'm wondering if multiple blood thinners are needed, though. That gives me pause. In the Cushings Group, Jiagulan alone is used. I believe its a tsp/day and monitoring gumline recovery improvement. Not to be used if the horse is scheduled for surgery and if an injury happened, I know I would quit it right away and double think the move if the horse was accident prone. I'd also be sure that it was needed in the first place as well. Getting the hoof balanced will do wonders all by itself. Sure is expensive. BL Solution is good for Yucca. It would be interesting to compare yucca amounts in it, with this one. Gaa! I just read a review by someone who was successful with this product in order to get one more year of barrel racing from her horse. When that was done, she quit the product due to not justifying the expense of it anymore. So much for the horse! Grrr! People that sell products tout until their hats won't fit their heads anymore. I would get a farrier's opinion with hoof in hand first. Just removing shoes will improve circulation, that's where the soreness comes in...like a wake up call in face of pathology.
  24. Faraon Up-Date

    Fine job! Thank you for posting a head shot of him. If they say the eyes are the windows of the soul, you don't even have to search his eyes to see it, it comes right out at you. What a special friend he must be! No distress, just kindness, understanding and patience....a lot of what we could use sometimes. Just looking at him gave me a warm fuzzy feeling and more than enough thanks to me for helping. Yup, tweaking is our advantage over farrier visits every 4-6 weeks, especially for you and that concrete ground. A check once a week or so to check the angles of the heel surfaces and to renew the bevel will kindly promote a forward transition. Check back anytime for a check-up and now, a face shot is mandatory!
  25. Any Experience With This Supplement?

    INGREDIENTS http://www.auburnlabs.com/html/eqAPF.html Eleutherococcus senticosus - normalizes body systems and improves cellular function disrupted by stress. Increases energy and physical endurance. Supports immune function. Schizandra chinensis - combats fatigue and enhances recovery. Has been used as nutritional support for healthy liver function. Rhodiola rosea - provides important immune support during stressful periods. Improves physical stamina and mental concentration. Echinopanax elatus - helps regulate blood sugar and cardiac function. All these Chinese adaptogens are not toxic and work to prevent IR, among other things. Where did you see Yucca? I don't think it would be advised for use in the Cushings Group if it had Yucca in it.