missyclare

Members
  • Content count

    4,043
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by missyclare

  1. <p>You'll be even more surprised when you close your eyes and feel things instead.</p> <p> </p> <p>You know where the bar ramp is supposed to be and what its supposed to look like. Say like your right side bar, the ramp is on dead air where it merges from the sole. This is because the older/taller ramp has shoved sideways and has taken the sole with it. The old ramp is now way over there, high and imbedded in sole. I find the bottom of the ramp where it ends. (the actual height is where the arrows are pointing to the inside line of the ramp.) If I'm dealing with dead air, then I imagine the ramp to be there and carry on, getting the back half of the ramp to comply with my imagined front half. (Not imagining either, really, cause the base of the bar ramp is always running parallel to the groove and directly on the other side of the groove. So I go from thin air to constructing the back half of the ramp and a good connection with the heel platforms. Now the old bar which sits high and is imbedded I simply see the hump for what it is and get it flat , leaving the rest there. It's growth, I want it. Just don't want it to me mean to the hoof in the process. I've got a new ramp coming up where it belongs and it won't take long. I will be shaping it and defining the ramp as I have growth to work with.</p> <p>The white line on the hump of the old right bar is just on the highest part of it. The actual whole area that is involved is bigger and behind my line, showing in as darker. If you look at that area vs. surrounding sole, you can feel a punch on it. The top of that hump is what's being mean. Just sliver it down even with the surrounding, to take the insult away and leave the rest to become growth and protection until the horse gets it in order. In your case on the right bar, its just hump high. Just pulling the heel back to the balance line will take most of that hump down already. The old heel bevel is eliminated as well, making it flat. What's inbetween the bar and heal now is cleared and has relieved the seat of the corn, which really likes to complain. You have now moved the heels back to the distance of the width of that old bevel...a big help at getting his heels under his descending weight. Keep the old bar down flat and the sole will stopped being pushed to the side and start to recover.. What is behind this hump...to the wall is flat and is thin sole, so don't touch. Keep the wall height even with sole and all this will start recovering into concavity/thickening as well. Remember on one of your original pics where you drew a concave line coming down into sole then stopped at the bar on the left side? Well, keep going, gently removing the hump as you coax a shape for future concavity. Remove that hump by way of making it bowl shaped in the process. The new ramp, which is right where its supposed to be will start to grow and you ramp and shape that growth as you have the growth to work with.</p> <p> </p> <p>Another place that likes to complain and bring on abscesses, is the area at the front of the bar ramp. Any highness here will produce a huge punch into the hoof as the ramp has ended and support is lost. Sensitive area here, only in slivers, every few days until resolved with the goal of having the material in front of the bottom of the ramp flow nicely into it and then ramp up. The old bar out to the side is not in this delicate area, so remove the hump down to sole level,</p> <p> </p> <p>And yes, you do understand correctly. If you bring the heel back and down, part or all of that hump will be eliminated in the process. If you look at the heel shot, see the short balanced heels, the wall and sole even all the way around....the ramps ramp down, all humps slivered down flat to marry with remaining sole......Nothing should be standing up higher than the heel platform or wall to the side in the middle of the hoof. Just a healthy frog. Look at my after trim shot again and feel no obstructions going on in the middle of the hoof.</p> <p>Once the sole is telling the truth, all you have to do is follow it and the balance will be correct every time.</p> <p>If you don't feel comfortable taking that much heel, only take half of it and more in couple of weeks to arrive. That's ok. The goal is to balance both heels to each other and have them both engaged and facing the ground. The other half of this success is the bevel at the toe, which needs a better leading edge placed and for that I need a solar shot with toe to bring the breakover back, show you where the bone is, show you where the toe wedge is and where to set that leading edge of the bevel. So keep the rasp away and give me a solar shot so I can finish this trim for you.</p>
  2. The discrepancy of medial lateral balance on the front shot vs. the solar shot is shown in this pic below. When you look at the front shot pic, the inside is high and coming down on the outside. Further evidence of that is the straight inside wall coming down to the ground and the outside is buckled out. When you look at the solar shot, the outside looks higher. Now look at the sole line all the way around the hoof. It's higher as well on the outside. (think of a teeter totter down on its right side...higher inside jamming into the hoof.....where's the other end of the teeter totter? High and out there because its been trying to keep up with the high side and lost the battle) The higher inside has dictated, putting the weight down on the left side, until it flared and broke out. Now the inside is way high and with lost heel, really down on the outside. The buckle was created probably before the heel broke out due to more impact and when it broke out, was relieved, though down on what was left. Now look at the balance between the two bars. Inside higher to back up that inside high scenario. Now look at the left heel, which is higher than the right heel. The one inch going forwards from the higher outside heel to the higher inside bar shows how the heel lands, then 1 second later, rolls forward to the opposite in balance. You have both balances happening and it effects the conformation of the hoof when used like this. All the white lines I drew are existing. I want you to note the shape and contours. Shape is function. The left heel has flared out and the top of the heel platform is quite lumpy and dictating to imbalance. (I guarantee that that lump hurts and is contributing to the flared heel) The right heel is high, always was. Both heels have a nice square/strong shape to their bases, though and that means strength. The bevel on the right heel should not be carried back to the heel platform, but only from in front of the heel platform at the quarter. (both sides) The right heel surface should be flat to ground all the way across it. The outside wall line going down to the ground on the right side is slightly going inward. A bevel keeps the wall from flaring outward. You don't need to bevel a wall that is already heading inward, make sense? The depth of the bevel is also extreme, leaving only a tad of the inside of the heel platform remaining. The inside of the heel platform is not heel, its bar, so the whole right side of the hoof is riding on bar. That's all the support that is there for a heel first landing. You need a full heel surface for landing. In balance with the other, surface flat to ground and stout and square shape, just like my red line shows. The heels should be brought down to that line and all surfaces should be flat and facing the ground...down to that line. So you reverse the rasp in your hand, start on the sides, following the sole, pulling the rasp back toward you and bring the wall straight back to and including the heels. All of it flat to ground and pulling straight back to where you want the heels to be....or should I say, where they want to be. <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/15914105552" title="12frontright1_271114 (Large) 333333 by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7509/15914105552_5d9271f9c6_s.jpg" width="75" height="75" alt="12frontright1_271114 (Large) 333333"></a> This is what the hoof looks like when you get it all flat to ground and even with sole. <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/15888193116" title="12frontright1_271114 (Large) 333333 by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7550/15888193116_e172a2a5ee_s.jpg" width="75" height="75" alt="12frontright1_271114 (Large) 333333"></a> All the red surface is flat to ground, then the bevel is applied "leaving" the inside half intact and beveling the outside half, That line created between intact and bevelled is what I call the leading edge of the bevel and I place it specifically for maximum benefit allowed at the time. I bevel flare, but don't bevel a curved wall coming down to the ground and inward on the circumference of the hoof, or a heel that is swaying inward. I don't bevel things that have been crushed. The flat to ground and medial/lateral balance is more important to me to give the structure full/straight purchase and promote maximum hoof perimeter and strength. Note the strength in the shape of the heels now. This shows the bevel at the back of the hoof, but not the toe..I'll see if a solar shot will help with that. Hope this helps..... This is just the RF. Got a LF?
  3. You'll have to pull them out of your album and post them here. I can see them, but can't draw lines. Just the heel shots, since I can see them. Thanks.
  4. Ps. When you bring the pony in from the wet like you did, spent some time cleaning and allowing to dry, like you did....what you see now that is still wet is Mother Nature literally pointing to the part of the hoof that still has to get its ducks in order....have a look... just where a tighter capsule is needed that's working better. Now you can see the hollow sound. I think that a hoof with good mechanism (producing dirt donuts) is also preventing a soggy bottom ....tighter/resilient/ breathing better. Make sense? Definitely need a heel shot of the RF. The lateral heel busted out, taking the wall, the heel and the back half of the bar ramp, leaving the front half standing alone like it was located in Butte Montana. That piece of bar has replaced the lost heel, kept the sole intact and prevented further damage, but its in the wrong place, cause its not a heel and its higher than the heel on the right side. This bar has held the fort, while the lost heel replaces itself. Just to confuse you, the inside is still high. See the front shot and the front run of the coronary band. I'd like to see a newer heel shot of this hoof and see how the heel growth is coming. Don't touch anything, just take another pic. Thanks.
  5. The white line does look a tiny bit wide all the way around, but in these pics, is strong and healthy and holding its own. Its possible that its the late summer/fall grass that has done it. At any rate, keep an eye on the sugar/starch that is consumed as ponies are prone.The separation at the quarters is from the bars and the inner wall inside the outside wall is the hoof healing itself....almost resolved. Keep the old outer wall bevelled so its flare doesn't engage until the new one takes over the job.The central sulcis is solid and the thrush treatments are paying off, continue to go after the frog to get it up to snuff and ready to go to work when it engages as the heels come back and down. The correctly placed bevel will close up the white line and stop the pebbles from entering, but keep an eye on it and clean out well when treating for thrush and check the diet. Once you have the bars under control, you'll be able to pick out the hoof by popping the clod of dirt out with one pick. Soon it will start popping out on its own with every step (self-cleaning hoof) and you'll find dirt donuts all over the place. These hooves are in good shape and its just a matter of getting the heels and bars down on a stronger frog/bevel maintained and you'll find this foot hurtling towards the finish line. Every time you take the heels down a tad, the frog will respond, keep it clean/dry and it will respond well. If you take the heels down too fast, before the frog is ready, it will hurt and the pony will toe walk avoiding pain and you're defeated. When you look at the bars, not only see how it is formed at the top of the wall, how far it sticks up higher than sole, its shape etc., but look down to the bottom of the groove where the wall starts and really know how tall that wall is. Note the angle that the wall comes down into the groove. If the tops are jamming into the ground, then that force is going right down the wall and into the groove. They act like retaining walls that hold sole in at the heels and prevents the heels from getting developed. They push the sole aside towards the quarters and bust them out, leaving dead air space behind them. Yours are slightly flared away from the groove, but not bad and standing straight, but tall, holding onto sole and the front half is imbedded and mounded up. Bar is growth, is good, but shouldn't be tall, mounded, convex shape. Its the top of the those mounds that are pinch points that tell the hoof that that heel is higher than the other and messing up the balance or tall tops of bars creating pinch lines along their edges. Even though all the area surrounding the frog is filled in and not looking like the bottom of a bowl, I can see concavity coming into the hoof anyway. Once you get the bars down, the hoof will be released to create concavity eminating out from the groove at the apex and sides. The groove will be the bottom of the bowl. What you see is excess, because it fillls in the bottom of the bowl. Rule: The bar ramps should merge up from the sole halfway back on the frog and ramp up in a straight line to meet the heel platform height dead on...strong continuous connection from one to the other. The surface of the bar ramp should be flat to ground, like the heel platforms and the wall, before you put the bevel on. The wall should be dead even with the sole all the way around and flat to ground. In your heels shots, you can see that the wall is taller than the sole. When you run your finger up the sole towards the edge anywhere, close your eyes and feel it instead. You should feel the sole, the change of direction to face the ground and feel no difference in height as you continue across the white line, wall and off. Then bevel. Your bevel could be a bit more proactive and its a matter of placing the inner edge where the bevel starts. It encourages better breakover, the toe coming back, which means the material behind it has to get its ducks in order as well. Every time the hoof leaves the ground and pushes off, its ON that bevel, pushing the toe back with every step. The bevel brings the breakover back and makes the horse land heel first....again, the frog needs to get ready for it. Its the heel first landing and the bevel helping that the puts the frog to work and getting frog mass to respond....just slowly and it will all come together nicely. As for your climate, I wouldn't blame the gravel, this issue is just temporary and although you don't want gravel into the white line, you do want the hoof on gravel. Its homework on rocks that makes for a rock crushing hoof, only pea gravel, that is not sharp/small and is 4" deep acting like a bean bag chair. The thrush is eliminated, hoof polished and self trimmed and developed tough. Up out of the rain and mud with well drained feet is a much better answer than boots and soggy heel bulbs. If not, then even overnight in shavings clean/dry and medicating before turning out in the morning will help a lot to turn a hoof around. Can you post another heel shot of the fronts? The 5th one down is good, but too steep, just a little. Hold the hoof by the fetlock and let it hang, then lean forward just enough to catch the fetlock, heels, bars and toe well in the background. I'll try to show you what I've been saying. These are good strong hooves, doing a nice trim....no worries. Just some coaxing, patience and continued thrush care.
  6. Heidi Trim Checkup

    Looking good! I'd prefer more defined bars and concavity, which may help with a tad shorter heel but the trim looks good. The back of the frog will also get in better shape as well. All overhangs and flaps should be removed in the meantime.
  7. Need Some Help Balancing Wry Hooves

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/15438087780" title="1111111111111111111 by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3950/15438087780_4f7a96bab8_s.jpg" width="75" height="75" alt="1111111111111111111"></a> This heel balance is good, but ruined by one small factor that will continue to dictate. The difference between the yellow and black lines is the bar ramp bumping up higher than the heel platform and taking over. Just a tweak. <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/15438088580" title="222222222222 by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3941/15438088580_ccceae6b24_s.jpg" width="75" height="75" alt="222222222222"></a> Random old shots to show you how the foot is being used....what I see..... <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/15437679337" title="aaaaaaaaaaaaaaa by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5607/15437679337_c67b828a02_s.jpg" width="75" height="75" alt="aaaaaaaaaaaaaaa"></a> <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/15003513763" title="bbbbbbbbbb by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5598/15003513763_0496b6e022_s.jpg" width="75" height="75" alt="bbbbbbbbbb"></a>
  8. Need Some Help Balancing Wry Hooves

    You're doing a great job on the thrush and its showing. The central sulcis is opening up, frog is widening, sole is clean and concavity is coming nicely. All this is promoted by the trim, but the thrush care is really showing positive changes to this hoof. The heels are still contracted and when the thrush is gone, the base of the frog will be wider with the heels, giving a better/stronger base to land on. Keep it up. As it heals and develops, the hoof becomes stronger and tells you what it wants. The thrush care is really the shining effort here. If you don't get it all gone, it will come right back to haunt you. So kudos to you for doing the homework, you're halfway there. As for the imbalance, it has improved as well. You have to remember that this hoof will always be imbalanced by the way its used via the way the bones run. Instead of pulling out your hair trying to decide which side is higher, obey the sole. You can't go wrong with obeying the sole. You can also read the sole. On the pic right above, you can see that the outside of the foot is being weighted. The wall/sole is covered with callous and has yet to do some more developing and creating a new story from the last trim. The wall on the other side's shape is different, pointed high from not so much weight on this side. Get to know these visual symptoms. If there is imbalance, these symptoms will worsen. The only way to keep things in perspective for the horse, is to obey the sole. Not just trusting your eyes, but closing them and "feeling" the wall height and really getting the truth to the wall height vs. the sole and tweaking any high wall spots that bump out of that perfect sunset. Right now, the hoof doesn't need anything much, except for more growth from the last trim to be able to talk to you confidently and continued development from the thrush treatments and some time to confirm new pages in the story. (let the growth talk to you, so you must wait for it.) When that happens, the growth tells you clearly what needs to be done and the guesswork and hair pulling is taken out of the equation. Patience on your sleeve at all times. The only tweeking I would do to this hoof is check the bevel and keep it maintained, put tiny bevels on the corners of sole that face the frog to give more breathing room and to make sure that the bars are straight ramps that merge out of the sole and go straight to the heel platforms without bumping up higher. This last will allow the heels to spread, back of hoof develop and help allow the frog/heels to widen with the thrush treatments. So, I will give you a tap on the shoulder and send you back to look at your original pics and then tell me again that you see no improvement, cause I do, lol! Looking at the symptoms, the shape, the balance, the health....its all improving. Carry on. Let some growth happen and then let the sole talk to you, obey it and know, without question, that that is what the horse wants. This hoof is coming along well and has lost all its junk and it starting to tell you clearly, the true story. Just do as you are told, and give the growth time to tell you that story clearly first. Things will never be perfect, (never are) but it will be the best it can be in the face of it and the horse laughing at the pathology anyway. Carry on, you are well on your way!
  9. Need Some Help Balancing Wry Hooves

    Its the shape of the frog that says sick to me. I think you're finding out that thrush runs deeper than you think. Epsom Salt and water, vinegar and water, or Dawn dish soap and water and don't rinse. Toothbrushes, Q-Tips and whatever it takes to ream out the bottom of that crack gently, that you just discovered and clean it. Getting clean is 9/10'ths of the battle. It's not bringing down the heel that is soring her, its, bringing the thrushy frog into play and it hurts. The medial/lateral balance is still off and I've drawn lines again. Wouldn't hurt to wait a few days of thrush treatments before trying again, but know it. White and green lines are coming down to the black lines. <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/15304713628" title="DSCF4473_zpsf2effe3c by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3944/15304713628_5851b9567b_s.jpg" width="75" height="75" alt="DSCF4473_zpsf2effe3c"></a>
  10. Need Some Help Balancing Wry Hooves

    The more I look at this foot, the more I feel that the balance is not bad and that turn in bone isn't bad either because the symptoms are tending to be like they would on a normal hoof, despite the bone turn. The only thing that I can see suffering discomfort, is the thrushy/crowded frog. <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/15266362720" title="new2 by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2941/15266362720_bf14b9a007_s.jpg" width="75" height="75" alt="new2"></a> The hoof has yet to settle into this trim, but its getting pretty close to the red line ideal. A matter of maintaining the bevel at the toe and pulling the heels back and down gradually, as you keep them balanced <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/15459172612" title="DSCF4384_zpsb1b99939 by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3934/15459172612_706e2946c4_s.jpg" width="75" height="75" alt="DSCF4384_zpsb1b99939"></a> With a hoof that is pidgeon=toed, the foot turns inward and lands that way. The hoof is breaking over diagonally from inside to outside instead of back to front. The first thing to come into contact is the inside heel. It depends....but IF that heel is high, It will throw a diagonal force and bump out 2-3 o'clock where it breaks over. IF the inside heel is too high along with a high inside quarter, then it dictates and the force runs up the inside wall to 10 o'clock, where it breaks over hard, then sweeps around the outside of the hoof breaking over on that side as it goes. IF the inside heel and quarter are really high, the force will come down on the outside all the way, but the angle of force will be coming down harder on the outside, driving past the wall and crushing it inward. IF the heel is too short, then support is lost, bone is turning more and outside is taking the whole brunt alone, the lion's share of the landing and the breakover. In this horse, the inside heel is high and also the quarter in front of it. Its running to a 10 o'clock hard breakover that showed separation in an older pic. Look closely at the red heel balance line. It is balanced properly for a straight hoof. The yellow line below it is the same. The bottom yellow line is the turn. The existing balance on the heels agrees exactly with the bottom yellow line and run of bone. But, I'm seeing a higher heel, high quarter that's not quite happy. So how did I decide where the heel balance was? Look on the original pic to this one and look on the back of the heel platform and tell me that you see a rugged looking black line that's saying please trim me here. The outside heel is doing just fine with no complaints. Well, I know that I'd rather be in line with bone, but I'm seeing pathology that doesn't like it. I know that if I take it down too far, its not going like it either. But when I see the hoof telling me where it wants to be, I listen. If the request is within reason, I will obey, if its not in reason then I will sliver my way gradually there. Here, the hoof is telling me that it wants to be level like normal hooves, so that clinches it for me right there. I do as I'm told. This is what this horse wants, so no contest with junk going around in my head. The rest is easy, obey the sole, get the wall down flat and meticulously running even with the sole all the way around. <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/15275109088" title="DSCF4384_zpsb1b99939 by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2949/15275109088_c097396f6d_s.jpg" width="75" height="75" alt="DSCF4384_zpsb1b99939"></a> This is the same picture close up. Think color and shape as well as the sole. Because there is a hard breakover at 10, it has pulled forward and bumped out of that circle that is the toe.The bump out front is in hand, but not the bump up. (trauma callous) It starts right at 10 and merges into a long high arch along the quarters, to connect with the high heel. See it? That's pull. It has also pulled the white line and sole up with it at the black arrow at 10, tricking you, thinking that's where it wants to be. If you imagine the heel balance line to be the horizon on the water, then the shape of the sole going around the hoof should be perfectly round like a sunset. Look at the shape of this sole line. You see it all when you look at it that way. The red sole line was the sole line followed at the last trim. the real sole line that is about to appear, if it hasn't already, is the black line. Now check its run/shape and situation at 10 and realize a better sunset. Look at how the high quarter is coming steeply down the inside of it to the sole line on the left. Think jam straight in from a pointed wall. Now look at the other side, not so steep, getting pushed outward more. Both quarters are flaring because they are long, but the high side is jamming and the low is splatting. A very normal horse scenario again. Remove all torque by getting dead even with the sole line all the way around + the bevel = removes the pinch points of torque that pulls on the hoof. The hoof may always tend to be this way because of the way its used and you'll be looking for the same pathology every time. Just obey the sole, not too much, not too little. <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/15461738445" title="4444444 by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3930/15461738445_22e97996b2_s.jpg" width="75" height="75" alt="4444444"></a> Same pic again with a trim on it. The sole and bar inside the hoof is still getting its ducks in order, but is doing nicely. The bars are buried in false sole at the heels and are still high. The heels are not going to emerge and define themselves from sole if bars are not brought down to release it. Yes, you should bring the heels down according to theire readiness (frog too), but if you don't release the bars for the sole to come out, you're going to be waiting a long time for a sign to bring the heels down. The bar ramps are holding it there like a retaining wall. Not only that, they are pushing outward and pushing the sole property back, leaving dead air behind where the ramp is supposed to be. See the curved outward shape in the existing ramp and know that its also related to the contracted heels, which is related to thrush....all connected to each other. See the bar ramp on the left. It ends where the crack is. This is because the height of bar beyond where the ramp ends is also high. That's why there is a crack. The weight comes down the bar ramp structure, which is tough, but once the ramp ends, so is the support and the continuing highness punches in and creates a crack. You can't go nuts taking the height of that material out in front of the ramp. Sensitive spot and because it is bruised from the punch, will need material left to protect while it heals underneath. So you sliver the top of the bump off it, removing the punch and leaving the base to protect....just a sliver removed at each trim as needed, no more. You can see it goes all the way around the frog apex like a necklace...again, just take the bump out things and put a small bevel(45)on edge facing the frog to bring it back and allow the frog to breathe. On the left side, just left of the bar necklace is an independant lump that also concerns me. Everything is migrating out to the side as normal, but when its on top of the sole its encroaching leading edge is also a punch line. The outside edge of that lump, the front edge of it and the outside edge of the bar necklace are all punch lines. I'd be slivering the difference in topography down these lines to marry them better. Aggravation thwarted, concavity coaxed and the rest left up to the horse. If you look at the front edge of that lump, you see a darker color of possible punch damage. Just marry the edge and the punch will subside and start to heal. Sorry this was so long, but I hope it helps in how to "see". Its not just the rules, but shape and color as well that make the pages in that book. See it all before you start. I go take pics, go to the computer and come back with a plan and am meticulous about the right heel balance for my 2-turns below the knee horse. Obey the sole, fight the thrush, get her comfortable and move and all the things that have tearing your hair out will disappear cause the horse took care of it and is showing you what she wants. The guess work is gone and all you have to do is do as you are told.
  11. Flip Flop Shoe - Not Half Shoe

    Called flappers. http://www.grandcircuitinc.com/products/flappers.
  12. Need Some Help Balancing Wry Hooves

    No, I can't get ahold of them. Best to post them here. If anyone has Flickr, please tell me how to post pics here. All I seem to be able to do is post the link and I really do need to be able to post pics and words together when needed. Things I'm trying to show seem so dis-jointed. I gave up on Photoshop from lack of performance and have years of hoof drawings on there and can't even get in there anymore.
  13. Need Some Help Balancing Wry Hooves

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/15406247306" title="DSCI044711111 by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5600/15406247306_18859c2104_s.jpg" width="75" height="75" alt="DSCI044711111"></a> The blue line is balance as close as I can tell with this pic. The red lines show how the imbalance has gotten out of hand and has been perpetuated by the trim.
  14. Need Some Help Balancing Wry Hooves

    I need better pics. Some have important aspects that are not in the picture. Back up from camera to hoof and don't worry about the background. Hold the hoof by the fetlock joint and let it hang, lean forward enough to get the heels in with toe showing in the background. Hold the hoof like this always for this horse to help get the true run of bone. The toe, all the way back to the ergot is needed. Front shots of both feet with camera on the ground also, 3' out front of the horse. Same with side shots, 3' away and camera on the ground. The heel shot needs to be joint held/hung, but the solar shot, you can pull the hoof up and shoot straight down on the bottom of the foot...keep camera 1'-1.5" away from the hoof. There is an extreme medial/lateral balance to this hoof, but until I can get a better idea of the run of bone, I cannot make a decision on the trim. The turn of bone seems to be right where your hand is holding the hoof in the first shot. Its all about how the horse uses this foot and how the trim helps his run of bone or makes the situation worse. That's why I need good run of bone shots. The trick is to get the trim balanced to the bone without over correcting and hurting things or letting it get out of hand and worsening things. That's what I suspect is going on here. It will always tend to have this pathology and the goal is to maintain balance according to the sole that mirrors the bone and keeping it in hand without trimming either too aggressively or too passively. Its not in hand right now. Hoof is too long, though walls are holding valiantly against the forces on it. Heels need to come down, though slowly, get balanced and definitely thrush treatments to strengthen everything and widen the heels for when the heels arrive...very important. The central sulcis should look like a mere thumprint depression on top of the frog, not a crack. This is a biggie for improved hoof health/strength. Give me good shots, I'll take a good look. On the last pic, see the dents in the heels on both sides? That's where the heels need to be in the end...that's how long this hoof is. Real sole doesn't grow that long. That is false sole and tricked the barefoot trimmer. She perpetuated the imbalance, and left behind all the things that would have helped this horse get the ducks in order.
  15. Hoofcinch? Anyone Heard Of This Or Used It? **update**

    In retrospect, I came across a explanation of the hoof cinch from my peers that you all may find interesting. Take-off on the Nolan hoof plate. Might be useful as a Band-Aid to help stabilize a foundered hoof and provide temporary pain relief until a realigning trim is on board but won't actually cure anything. It erroneously states that the product will force the lamina to reattach to the bone. Lamina cannot reattach - the hoof needs to regrow attached from the coronary band down to the ground. That's why it takes at least 9-12 months for a rotation to grow out. Those before and after xrays only show what happens when you back up the extremely long toe - removing a lot of the wedge - and drop the heels slightly, something that could be done in one trim. The change has zero to do with using the Hoof Cinch. Interesting that they stress the benefits of a level, balanced trim as the xrays show anything but. Unfortunately, the site also continues to perpetuate the misinformation that heels need to be left high/raised to relieve tension on the DDFT. Blood flow is not increased when the heels are raised as this crushes the blood vessels under the leading edge of the coffin bone. Apparently, the email recipients were contacted right off the customer list from the Nolan Hoof Plate....hmmmm.
  16. How To Deal With A 'friend' Like This...? (Rant)

    I don't think this reads as silly. We were all young once. I think if you go back and remember all the things that she has said and done to upset you, you will see that it is all in line with the person she is. Its not your job to change it., cause you're not going to change it anyway. Despite the years of friendship and familiarity, she has crossed the line where she has caused hurt not only to you, your reputation as a horse person, but has also stepped on the barn's reputation as well....not a good thing at all. To post like this on a forum is truly immature and you'd do well to walk away from it with no rebuttal. A forum that allows this kind of post to remain up there, is not a place to be anyway. Stuff like that doesn't happen around here and if it does, I never see it, cause its been taken care of and not allowed. ...so stay here. ... and welcome! It was a mistake to get her hired on with you, I think you see that now. Don't let it happen again. You need to pull away and go your own way and rid yourself of the drag on your life. Regardless of how much money she has or hasn't, she is acting like a spoiled brat and hasn't grown out of it. She is jealous of you and always has been. The fact that she fails at a show and then whines on the way home like that says she is looking for attention and solace and is not realizing her mistake of the day and working on a plan to fix it instead. She is not rising to the challenge and moving forward. She is regressing and throwing it all up in the air, her future with horses, her employment at the barn, your friendship. Her post on the forum was another whine, only detrimentally so. So are thoughts of breaking her trust with the barn owner (the most important aspect of her continuing employment) To suggest that you both be partners in crime and take those blankets home tells me she will sink to even lower depths. Because she can't think positively, learn from her mistakes and move forward she will go back and sit in that whiney mud puddle every time and whatever conniving she produces while sitting there spells trouble, not only for her, but for everyone around her. If anyone gets you fired from that job, it will be her. So stay true to your job and to your relationship to your employer. This comes first, regardless of what's going on in the background. Keep this away from the barn and the owners ears as long as its manageable. If not, go talk to them about the problem. Continue to work well and gain their respect and you'll get the same respect from them, should things come to a head. Take it well away from the barn and have a talk with her about every thing. It will either be the conversation that changes your relationship for the better or it will be your last conversation with her, so steel yourself. Remain calm with low voice no matter what, stay kind and firm, just like training a horse, actually. Watch her muddle around in her puddle with connivings to come back at you and see them for what they are. In the end, if you can't get her out of the mud puddle, then you are not the person for the job and never will be....that's ok too, so don't put it upon yourself to try any further....kindly separate yourself for the good of yourself. Its going to take a life trauma or an expert to do that for her as she's been sitting in this puddle for years. Know it. You've had years yourself to see the detrimental parts and know them. Under no circumstances should you find yourself ever sitting in that puddle with her, not even for a minute, then she's won, because she's dragged you down into it instead of pulling herself up out of it. In a kind and gentle manner, let her know how she has crossed the line and how you feel about it. How she reacts and what she says will be your answer....act accordingly and be true to yourself always. Nicks right about the leading part. You are the leader, put the boots on and step down on detrimental things with the authority that you do possess, realize it, do it and don't hesitate to do it. She is your first exercise in many situations that you'll have to put your foot down on. If the conversation does not go well, down comes the foot. It has to to keep the path clear and kill the soap opera. It's either that or go sit in that mud puddle with her. Hope this helps... As for the no "friends" dilemma, who cares? Why am I even here in the first place? Because I love horses! I am here for the horses. They are my friends. You won't find a horse dissing you on the internet. His reactions are honest and instant....a truly trusting friend that you yourself can trust in return. Isn't any better friend than that! Who says your best friends have to have only two legs?? Now me, I'm for the horse, always. It is for the horse that I always end up putting my foot down for. The fist in the cheek to soften the shoulder method did it for me right there. ( repeat: sits in that puddle and is detrimental to everyone around her, including the horses)
  17. Help! My Horses Hooves Are Cracked!

    From what I can tell from this pic is that the hoof is not balanced, heels and quarters are too long. A solar shot would help tell the rest of the story. The crack is coming up on the front quarter. This is where the arch of the horses foot is. The quarter walls have grown down and now are jamming up the hoof. I also see things are not happy in the fetlock above, in the soft tissue. See how the band goes higher and peaks right where the crack is headed? Think jamming up into the hoof. This is the cause of sidebone. It can be relieved instantly with a good balanced trim that clears the quarters and gets rid of any excess growth on the bars that like to jam up from the bottom in the same place. With the wall lowered to be even with the sole, leaves the wall helped by the sole, as they work together. Beveling will take the brunt off that crack while it grows down and eliminates. So get a good trim with a 4 week schedule for awhile and the rest is your homework. Fighting thrush, getting the movement comfortable and then moving to work that trim and develop a better foot. Lysine, methionine, copper and zinc with low iron is in order, iodized salt and fresh ground flax is others. The boots will help with the comfort and confidence to move. Just make sure they are the remedial kind that can take padding. Its the padding that works the magic. Everytime the horse steps down and applies her descending weight, the bone is pressed down on the inside of the sole. The pad underneath this weight will pad, give and take with the pressure and work much harder to develop the foot with every step and greatly shortens healing time. It addresses exactly concavity as it tells the bone to get back up where it belongs with every step. It will also help to pad the cracks, but the best answer to seeing those cracks no longer torqued on and healing, is a good balanced trim and your homework. No shoes necessary and certainly, not glue. A good trim will relieve that crack immediately and stop the gaping motion happening when the horse weights it. Its about balance. It is imbalance that got her her. Good luck! A crack showing evidence of abscessing already has been compromised by infection, and I consider any other crack to be already compromised by infection from being so close to the ground. The last thing I'm going to do is to glue that crack shut and lock in any infection, cause that could brew a nasty storm. Same with Keratex, put on the sole of an abscessing hoof and.....what a mess, pain, waste of time to heal. There is potential for a big leap backwards when you glue a crack. I did once about 20 years ago and got thoroughly reamed out for it. Luckily things turned out ok.
  18. Should I Invest In A Larger Size Hoof Boot?

    No, don't trim the hoof to fit the boot. Invest in a size 3. Measure his foot properly and start fresh. Also look to graduating out of boots except for really long rides and also depends on the terrain ridden on. Gravel will help with the transition to rock crushing feet and out of boots.
  19. Trimming Lame Horse

    Oh, the forgotten brood mares! I appreciate your efforts on her behalf, I really do. The fact that she is a broodmare, who is lame and hasn't done much the last few years, puts a cold breeze on the back of my neck. Yes, always to the vet. It would also help to post pics here, according to the sticky at the top, really clean hoof and tell us about her history...age etc. You never know what might become of it and its free. At the very least, you may have a more intelligent conversation with the vet. It will take his diagnostics to know for sure what's wrong. Whether these funds will be forthcoming for this mare.....let us know. But pictures here would be worth a 1000 words and that makes for lots of thoughtful conversation....just sayin'...
  20. You Need One Of These

    Love it! Good 'ole denim that goes with any "trimming outfit". I suggest you wear the heck out of it.
  21. Bruising? Abscess? Need Help

    If she is overweight and having problems with abscesses, then I suspect the problem is metabolic. Abscesses are part of the navicular picture. Think of them as warning signs. The diet needs to be balanced and she needs to move. She needs to get off the grass. July is about the only safe month for such horses in a year, sometime not even that. The sugar in the grass goes up and down the stem with the sun. The cooler nights sees the sugar trapped in the stem and staying high around the clock. Everything, plant and animal is going "winter is coming, I must prepare." Fall can be just as dangerous as spring. So, keep that muzzle on at all costs, or dry lot. If she is out all day with the muzzle on, she will need 2% of her body weight in hay each night to compensate. Gravel also will help her, around the water trough, loafing areas, gateways, on her chosen paths. It will help with spitting out thrush with its good drainage and self-trim and toughen up the hoof. Setting up slow feeders so that she rotates on them, with a gravel path between them will have her doing her homework during your absence. I would try to get there those 2x/week to treat the thrush until its under control. In the meantime, no grass, no sugar, no starch, no treats, no dead grass, no added iron. Hay, water, minerals and movement instead. You're going to have to be a mean Mom and simplify the diet right down. The goal is to get rid of that crest and slim her down. Consider that crest as fatty deposits laden with cytokines that will push the button for inflammation at the drop of a hat. That crest is feeding this problem and she needs to lose it. It would be much better with pics, but I can try to describe what you should see when you lift that hoof. The white line, which runs around the edge of the sole should be 1/8th of an inch wide all the way around. If its wider at the toe, then imbalance is causing torque on it and stretching it there. If its wider all the way around, not yellow, but darker and looking mad, then its metabolic. When you pick up the hoof and look at the white line, you're just seeing the ground end of the white line. If you cup your hand over the whole hoof wall, up to the coronary band, there's the actual extend of the whole white line involved. When the white line becomes inflammed, it lets go of the bone and the bone sinks lower in the hoof. The ground conditions are only part of the problem with this situation. The horse's descending weight is a bigger factor. Every time she takes a step, the bone comes down on the inside of the sole causing inflammation that causes bone changes as well. Its one thing for Murphy's Law to rule with that one bad step out there, but a low bone on thin sole is Murphy's Law happening with every step on the inside, regardless of the ground. If you put a ruler across the hoof from 9-3 and measure down from there to the bottom of the groove beside the apex and get less than 1/2", then she needs protection. The bone will not remediate and the damage is permanent, so its important. The padding also prevents abscesses that set you back from good hoof form and comfort for months, as you've found out. The wrapping and padding brings some worries though, in your absence, but the gravel is going to provide a more maintenance-free way to reach your goals, of keeping thrush at bay and toughening up the hoof and self trimming the hoof to the way she wants it. There can be the situation of more devastation and damage done when a horse gets into the oat bin and founders, but P3 can also slowly descend in the hoof over the summer to end up on the edge of the cliff of founder. Just one incident of a glucose rise can push the horse over the edge. I once told someone, don't you dare open that gate and let the horses get out in that field or there will be trouble, well she did and they did get into trouble, within 24 hours. So, if your parents see her without her muzzle on, they must get it found and put back on immediately. Some bright electrical tape on it, or something, will help it being found out there. She will still need to be dry lotted at night and made to eat hay and if she's getting too much grass through the muzzle and her weight not getting anywhere, then tape up the hole in the muzzle and get the vet in for a thyroid test. (simple blood test, not costly treatment) Its the more movement part that is what will start the improvement. A mini pasture paradise set up in her night time enclosure....slow feeders hung around the perimeter of it with a gravelled path between them.....perfect. When you get there for your visit, leave the dirt in her feet and go for a walk for move movement. If you can work your way up to 10 minutes of trotting, the more power to you. Then go and treat the thrush. The powdered form of minerals kept free choice in a dry place is best. The blocks don't cut it. She'd have to lick her tongue off to get what she needs. You may find she pigs out on it at first due to her needs, but it will settle down. You can also feed her a dose of minerals right from your hand when you are there, just to make sure she gets them. Not only will the minerals help spit out thrush, but protects the wall and its waxes and oils, but also strengthens connective tissue for a stronger hoof as well. I'm trying to imagine what I would do in your situation. Hope this helps....
  22. Degenerative Suspensory Ligament Disease

    What an insidious disease! They've got to find a cure for it, that's all there is to it. The best link out there on the subject: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/DSLD-equine/conversations/topics/61054%3b_ylc=X3oDMTM3NXN0bzdjBF9TAzk3MzU5NzE1BGdycElkAzcwMzgwMDIEZ3Jwc3BJZAMxNzA2MDQyOTk4BG1zZ0lkAzYxMDU2BHNlYwNkbXNnBHNsawN2dHBjBHN0aW1lAzE0MDYzNjE2NTgEdHBjSWQDNjEwNTQ- Hope this helps.
  23. Hoofcinch? Anyone Heard Of This Or Used It? **update**

    Very sorry to hear. I'm not very good at this kind of thing. The situation called for this decision to be made. How lucky that you were able to make it for the horse. Humans don't have this luxury. It was the pain factor that made the vet give this euth suggestion. It was the right decision and he was right, you were right to make it. This should sit right in your heart, where he now is also and all you have to do is reach inward and stroke his nose to be with him. My thoughts are with you.... (If his death is to have any good consequence, learn from it. May it never happen again)
  24. Hoofcinch? Anyone Heard Of This Or Used It? **update**

    I dunno, am determined to remain open minded, but for the most part, am with Southern Gurl on this one. A really good vet/farrier team, xrays on hand only, etc. In lesser hands, I can see trouble. I've seen trouble with casting too tight and its effects. All those screws automatically rub me the wrong way, as well as the word "force" used a lot on the website....is dictation, but to each his own. It also doesn't address the most important part of founder protection and that is under the bone. If that bone is low in the hoof, he's still walking on it with no protection. I also wonder, with an already compromised blood flow, if this is bad in that dept. For me, I don't care what that hoof looks like. I want maximum blood flow and soft tissue being allowed to heal. The cinch is still on the laminae and its growth. It was also mentioned how the hoof distorts below the band. I am reminded of tightening a belt around my neck and watching my eyes bulge out. I know I can get the same comfort immediately with a good trim and padding below the bone and staying on top of it and promoting blood flow (the only thing that will heal a hoof and allow it to grow), then by going further doing the same to develop a strong hoof with concavity that snaps that bone back up where it belongs. Is this cinch just going to get the wall tight to bone, or is concavity going to happen along the way? Horses do recover from founder if it hasn't been too traumatic, not too much damage done. Getting into the oat bin still is the worst case scenario for recovery. There are two different kinds of founder. One is capsule rotation, where the capsule is torqued away from the bone or there's no laminitic tearing the bone goes nose down or both ends sink lower. The recovery of blood flow and soft tissue can be another story and is where winter founder comes in. Shipping boots have been found to work well to promote warmth and blood flow in these cases. My prayers are also with you and please do keep us informed. I hope my questions will help you communicate with your farrier. These would be my questions. Know that I respect your decision to try this and am glad that you have found a different route to take you away from euth. Please take lots of pics and stay with us. I am very interested to see how this goes. As time wore on, what I'd be really looking for is the groove beside the apex getting deeper and deeper as concavity improves. If not, then getting the hoof tight to bone is a good thing for a good hold, but its concavity that reverses the bone's descent in the hoof and puts it back up where it belongs. This is important to me. So many times, I've seen years old founder with still low bone, trim not promoting and horse still lame. Above all, I want to see concavity coming in. The bright light for me in all this is the alleviation of pain, which is a biggie, but must be managed carefully. I do want the horse to be able to walk comfortably and properly, but I don't want him getting stupid and over confident either. You have much homework with fighting thrush and creating lots of that comfortable movement that promotes bloodflow/development, so if this helps him in the pain dept., it could just help him get over the hump and doing the homework that he needs to do. Please do post pictures according to the sticky at the top. Right now, your starting point and later after some time has gone by, but before the farrier comes to renew, so we can see what the cinch has been doing. Post xrays too, if you have them. We are here and you are not alone. Best wishes! In the meantime, I will post this question to my peers and see if I can get a definitive answer. They know what must be done and new things coming in like this are usually ignored, but if we are to be smart about things, these things must be scrutinized as they coming flying in from the sidelines.