missyclare

Members
  • Content count

    4,043
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by missyclare

  1. Ready To Trim, Need Help, Have Questions

    Sure. Just see if you see any hints left of what I see. The RR damage looks like she ran into something and then skidded past it. Could be the fence. The LR has a high medial heel also. I didn't take anything on the right heel, but more on the left heel, followed the sole and a lot of left bar came down as well. http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/10983964303/ So does the RF, which explains the major split on the lateral side as the wall is being flared away from the sole, because the inside is higher and jamming straight, then splatting over to the lateral. Think of the split-like white line as waves of splat being pushed against the wall. I suspect that there may be an imbalance with your trimming on the left side of any hoof, and want you to be aware of it, just in case. RR Heel balance is spot on, just no up and up higher as you go around the corner. Stay with the sole. http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/10983915466/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/10983913826/ LF. High heel/bar/wall on the left side. http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/10984200253/ Hope this helps.....
  2. Ready To Trim, Need Help, Have Questions

    RIGHT FRONT I can't see any damage on the RF medial hoof wall. Looks good to me. There is a medial/lateral imbalance going on though. If you look at the front shot, you'll see the outside high. Then on the heel shot, you can see how much wall is standing above sole. The outside heel is a tad high, following thru to that wall and beyond. Don't worry about what the white line is doing. The excess you see (split) will be gone when you get wall and sole together. This pic is an extreme heel shot, which will only show you the heels. I outlined the existing and then put in the balance and particularly the shape. I'd carry the bevel right on back to include the outside edge of the heels and quit before turning to the back of the platform. These heels are good, but are still flared and pinching inward on landing. The telltale clue is the central sulcis, way down at the bottom there's a pouch there of jammed up material about the size of your thumb. Bunched up. The heels need to stand up straight with the growth, get wider instead of flared and come back a bit more. Now look at the shape again. Keep in mind the center line and see the white of heel platform that is gone and the shape that is left and how it promotes this stronger configuration. http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/10973825176/ As for the rest of the foot, obey the sole. To not obey it, is not to listen. Sometimes you have to gradually obey it, but the goal is the same. But it tells the truth. In this foot, the sole looks really low on the left side. That's where it wants the wall, so that's where I drew the line. Now look at the sunset/center line....the heel line....all I did was follow the sole. http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/10974042745/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/10973910573/ The purple is excess bar that needs to be scraped off the sole.
  3. Remember Endo? :)

    Very interesting to watch! When's this happening? The link had no information. Do you know anything about the competition itself? Like how much time they have and training expectations?
  4. Horse Window Shopping

    You must go with a professional that can conduct this sale properly in your interest. You can window shop all you like, but don't go alone. You'll need a vet exam done for that kind of money too. Look at lots of different horses online and save some favourites. Study the criteria, the sex, breed, age, training, height, attitude etc. and see what horses fit your criteria and what ones don't fit. Note the prices of each. Get to know the market. The research will help you to realize new things and make you smarter/aware about it all. I window shop all the time without any money in my pocket, just cause its fun and I like looking at horses, lol.
  5. Garlic, No Worms Coming Out...

    Garlic contains allicin, which alters the enzymes in red blood cells and deforms them, which are recognized by the spleen and removed. Studies have found that all the red blood cells are depleted within as little as 11 days = Heinz Body Anemia. A safe dose has not been determined, nor have the cumulative effects of it over time. It kills good and bad bacteria in the gut and causes neurogenic switching, which triggers allergic reactions elsewhere...(this has been well studied and documented in people) I've also learned that a horse will voluntarily consume a toxic dose of garlic. Hope this helps... I'm the same way about poo. There are no flies around here. I still deworm them 2x/year, just because and I quarantine them for 24/36 hours while I do it, so it lowers the risk of re-infecting the pastures. From what I've learned, garlic has no place in my barn. Fecals are inconclusive and I'd rather spend my money on the wormer and get it done. I call it colic insurance. Tapeworms are site specific. They like to congregate all around the stomach valve until they impact it......no thanks.
  6. Wow! Before And After Pics, And Open For Input

    I'm looking at a combination of good trim, good tweaking, improving balance, good thrush care and especially the gravel winning the day. That concavity is not a thicker sole, there hasn't been enough time to grow it., though it is thickening and improving. the gravel has scrubbed the sole clean and revealed the concavity that was always there. The gravel is also helping with the drainage that eliminates the opportunity for thrush inbetween your thrush sessions, like a good back up. It will also develop the foot more and create a rock crushing hoof. It will also fill and support her hoof north,south, east and west for improved strength in every direction. My advice is to carry on just like you are. Is she still sore? I don't know how the casting came into the conversation, I must of missed something. Why put a barrier between the hoof and the gravel that has proved itself already? If protection is needed, why not boot to ride and then put her bare on the gravel at night? You're doing great! A tweak every couple of weeks and since you are tweaking, then the trimmer only needs to tweak when they come as well, so don't let them sore the horse again. Think light, professional trims. Cast if you feel the need, but I have faith that the gravel will continue to develop and strengthen and get past soreness from trims. IMO, these hooves are on the brink of getting completely over the hump to complete transition. That lighter colored sole at the outer edge of sole, if flat, is thinner sole than the darker, more concave shape behind it. Some day soon, I suspect that you'll pick up the hoof and won't see that white band looking up at you. It will be in line and concave like the sole behind it. Concavity to the walls and you have arrived with transitioning the foot.. At this point, all you need to do is maintain the trim and let the hoof come to you. It can happen quickly. When the concavity gets that far along, the rest can suck up into place overnight, so keep your eyes peeled and camera handy and keep doing what you're doing.
  7. Lameness, Vet Treating As Navicular

    Bottom line, you are the owner of this horse and only you can advocate for him. This is a trim issue as Trinity has said. Balance has been lost because the trim has been for the shoe, not the horse. He has lots of hoof to work with to remove the aggravation of arthritis. At this age, its a fine line between old age and balance and the lameness of arthritis showing. The shoes and the trim under them has caused the pathology you are looking at, especially the contracted heels that look to be harboring deep thrush. That's another explanation for this appearing/disappearing lameness. That's the lessee's homework not being done. I hope addressing this with her will see it done. I would make forays into this by way of talking to the lessee, about the thrush, about how much longer the show season is going to be and seeing if the shoes can be pulled at some point to remediate his hoof and still keep riding with boots, the barefoot trimmer coming in, or the horse going out to the trimmer, or what the trimmer says he could do to help during this time, or having to put your foot down and bring the horse home so you can bring the trimmer in. Just my opinion, but that would be me. SOMEONE out there loves you and will help. This horse has gone lame under their care with a nasty diagnosis of navicular, which isn't probably true, and in my book, a stupid diagnosis without xrays etc., Absolutely stupid, alarmist and an attempt to extort money. Here, you have a 3 ring circus of such in the barn owner, the vet and farrier holding out their hands and smiling at you.....just because of one sentence said without proof. Get a diagnosis from your own trimmer and see for yourself. I think what he has to say will concrete your resolve or find a workable improvement. Best wishes.
  8. How's This For A Club Foot

    Actually, the angles aren't bad. He's used the hoof well from the last trim and held onto the balance decently. Maybe its thanks to her timid trimming, she's been able to maintain it. Its just been pounded and now shorter. Coronary band speaks the truth on it, a lot of stress and jamming up going on. By the way its being used, it hasn't fared as well as the others. Side walls are collapsing inward and heels need to expand. This is medial/lateral balance that needs correction. I would return in two weeks and tweak again, just what you can. I'd like to see the bevel go consistently across the whole front of the hoof to bring the hoof together during torque of breakover across those cracks as well as consistency of wall height across this area.. Also because of those cracks, I'd recommend the Clean Trax immediately. 2 sessions, a week apart, plus diligent thrush care and crack care. I think this hoof needs to reveal itself and obeying the sole will get you there nicely. Its easy to see that the health of this foot has been compromised. I like the space to move, but must be protected, Its that flat sole that needs to be protected, especially considering the variety of terrain out there. That bump on the front coronary band on the side shot could be a sign of poor circulation...another reason for padding. It needs a chance to heal and grow right and be stronger. Protection to prevent further trauma and destruction/abscessing/setbacks etc. You want to move forward, not backward. I agree that Safe Choice doesn't cut it. The high iron in Farrier's Formula doesn't cut it. California Trace with low iron will, in the mineral dept., but if the horse is lean and lacking from not being on grass, then I'd go a step up to Formula4Feet and tackle the big picture of needs. The grass will certainly help, but if he hasn't been on grass and is now, consider it springtime for this horse and keep a sharp eye out for related hoof changes. The strength of the white line is your ace in the hole and you don't want to see that one played on you. Good blood flow, good movement, diligent cleaning and adequate amounts of the right nutrients and listen carefully to what this foot wants, no matter what it looks like, barring xrays. Best wishes.....
  9. This Toe Seems So Long: Screen Clip From Youtube Vid

    P3 can slip forward and sit harder against the front wall. Missyclare is like this. This however, is a distorted pic. This pic is also not at the right angle for a lateral shot either.
  10. Would be excellent in a farrier's school. Unless they actually produce hooves with different pathologies, I can see every trim being the same because the capsules are the same. If you look at how the hoof capsule clips on, you know you'll never be able to the heels at the right height that we speak of. This one's about shoeing. Looks like the core is a hard wax or something. Isn't technology amazing?
  11. Is This The Right Choice?

    The picture doesn't help. I need pics like Ared horse posted + a heel shot. You need to take better ones. I'm not even getting half the story on this foot. Do both hinds. This foot could even be clubbed for all I can tell. If it is, the last thing you want to do is lose the heel. He looks like he's already hurting from it. I'd like to see a body shot as well. I can see where the heel is going to break out, All advise here is good. Some help and support for the heel to remove torque and aggravation and let healing happen. I wouldn't cut off the heel unless it could be replaced by the lost support. The heel can also be floated and not weighted. Also comfort and confidence to move. I think the hoof strength is compromised somehow and the hill has put the trauma on it. The hill has not been the source of the problem, but has taxed this hoof in the face of its weakness. Bacterial infection, overgrowth and self-trimming gone bad, imbalanced trim, or deficiency in the diet or all three, even a club hoof. There is some reason why this hoof couldn't take the same environment as the others and not survive. Makes me want to ask what you are feeding them. They need the right nutrients in balance to grow a strong hoof and to heal a hoof as well. White Lightning soaks, one/week for 3 weeks. Flat ground turnout around the barn or something, so the hill is not continuing to tax the foot while it heals and horse still be able to move. A stall will keep him safe, but take him downhill in all departments, so he's gotta move to promote growth and stay healthy. The proper nutrients to feed strong growth so it can laugh in the face of that hill when it goes back out there. So what are you feeding him? How are the rest of those feet out there? Are they all in stages of some compromise with this guy just being the first alarm bell or is it just him? Take a step back and take a hard look at the big picture. If you post some good pics here, I will take a hard look at them. I would also call in another farrier/barefoot trimmer and get another opinion as well....same as I'd get 3 quotes for a major reno on my house, before deciding. That's all I can offer with this pic. A side shot sunk in sand not weighted, does not talk to me.
  12. Purina Vs Nutrena

    I never jumped on the store-bought feed wagon. I took a nutrition course instead. I tested my hay and found out the nutrition holes in it and fed only to fill those holes. It gets you a perfectly balanced diet with all needs met and most importantly...balanced. This route takes all the guess work out of it and puts you firmly on top of the situation. I ordered a custom mix to complement my hay from Uckele and its the only supplement I feed. Every nutrient needed has been addressed. Protein, major minerals, trace minerals, electrolytes, omegas, inflammation, vitamins, enzymes, probiotics....the whole nine yards....even carcinogens can be found and analyzed. For a $50 hay test, you'll know where they are lacking and where they are excessive and be able to correct to find balance. Compared to store bought feed bags that don't even begin to address the big picture, I have addressed the big picture and spent less money in the process. Its the best way to go. If you don't get it about Purina, read Banned's post again and dwell with her for a minute. I remember that recall. I had friend's pets dropping like flies when that happened. I was really glad that I didn't buy store bought feeds at that time either. Typical that they would minimize owning up to it. I can understand the loss of control in processing when they're getting China to mix the ingredients for them. It makes me want to ask questions like, logistics, environmental impact and whats wrong with the people who are looking for jobs in this country? I also had to make phone calls to feed people find out ingredients not listed on the label. They were hidden, like iron. It was not a pretty exercise and some students came back in tears. They would not give the information or slewed it, or just got nasty......gender insults, stupidity and don't worry, what you don't know won't hurt you attitude. I found out the iron content of Farrier's Formula by way of the information black market and won't recommend it to anymore due to its iron content. I won't feed kelp unless I know its source and amount of iodine in it, which I've found is recommended to be fed in toxic amounts. Then there's the recalls, the money etc. When all this started with horse owners wanting to know, they got cagey. Started only listing the 4 main ingredients on the label, then enlarged the ingredient list without the values and as long as your arm. They hid the iron and you have to call them, good luck with that. Unless the feed touts low iron, you can be sure its in there, doubling your daily iron intake, and literally deleting copper and zinc in the process that is so important. I can see the copper and zinc being deleted right on the label, important nutrients lost and money out the window. I see protein without the right balance of lysine. Without lysine, protein cannot be metabolized, so throw that protein out the window as well. Magnesium has over 300 jobs to do in the body and its rare on labels, so are enzymes, the workers that make everything happen. Probiotics are another one. Millions of CFU's don't cut it...you need billions to do the job. Vitamins is another one. Horses manufacture their own and if you mess with that, he won't manufacture his own anymore...the need has been replaced. Thousands of IU's for Vit A. That's because its synthetic and won't be absorbed unless bombarded by high amounts. Chelated? Ha, ha! Horses have chelation properties right in their own saliva. Anything over 1600IU's of sythetic Vit. A starts to become toxic, why, when 2 carrots/day will fit the need perfectly and naturally? Vit C is also self manufactured. C is good to fight stress and kill pain and only should be elevated temporarily. Vit E is lost in hay and crucial to the immune system. It needs oil to be metabolized and if selenium is needed, it should be fed with the E and oil together to make it all work inside.Fat on a label should not be over 5%. A horse has no nutritional requirement for fat, which is good, because fat has no nutrition in it whatsoever. Fat is just fat, plain and simple. You might as well inject it under the skin to make fatty pads and call him IR, cause that's where he's going, never mind the fat accumulating around the organs that you don't see. Its also limited with energy and replaces glucose energy. You won't win any barrel races on it and when it collapses and there's no more energy, the horse won't be able to kick in the glucose method, because its gone...replaced by fat instead...not even as back-up = flat tire. Selenium is another one. Its toxic if deficient or overloaded and is so touchy, its measured in mcgs. A bag produced at one end of the country with appropriate Se, then shipped to other side of the country where Se levels can differ, now what have you got? Feeding multiple sources of Se? Now what have you really got? Speak to the vet in your area and KNOW what he needs...a hay test already has Se in it as well, so you know where to start....or stop on Se. Anyway, enough of that, but I'm hoping that these insights will help you read those labels smarter, because as far as I'm concerned, many of them just don't get it, especially at the daily horse bag feed level from the local feed store. Hay already has most of the required nutrients the horse needs. Have faith in the hay first. ...the nutrients, the fiber. Ontario Dehy Timothy Balance Cubes has the minerals already balanced and makes a good hay extender. Otherwise, a good mineral mix that is low in iron so copper and zinc are present, fed, make sure he gets them. Blocks don't even begin to meet the horses needs. Put them out as a complement. Those little blocks that fit in hangers in the stall? He'd have to completely lick one of those/week to get what he needs and he doesn't have a rough cow's tongue that these were meant for. So, if I were NOR to get a hay test done and "wing It" This is what I would do. Add a little protein for my old girl in the form of alfalfa cubes soaked. Add a good mineral mix with low iron, like California Trace or add Formula 4 Feet which has been the only one that's made my eyebrows go up after 2 years of pitting feed bags against needs. Feed yeast or if in trouble, go right to Ration Plus. 1tbn. of iodized salt/day, 2tbns. or more in summer due to sweat losses and keep the water content in his body regulated. Feed 4oz. of fresh ground flax just before feeding...the only fat required....the omegas and an inflammation fighter body-wide. If thinking about a joint supplement, would do this first. Flax is not needed in the summer, only winter. For my old girl and handful of sunflower seeds. Yes they are pro-inflammatory, but also boosts the alarm system that helps with older horses. There is a ying and yang to everything. Same with Vit. E (only winter)....2IU/lb of body weight...crucial and terribly deficient in these bags. The only oil I'd put in there (fat again) is 1tbn. to see the E metabolized, or you can buy Liquid E already in oil, or E + Se, both from Uckele, or Walmart people Vit E, in gelcaps and feed the number of pills to add up to 1000IU's. Crucial. I'd feed it all in 1 cup of oats to deliver or feed oats 50/50 with beet pulp if more fiber is needed or weight gain. I'd be sure that the worms and the teeth are on top of the situation going into winter. I would use slow feeders, which deliver constantly, prevent choke, ulcers, quidding, and keep him warm at 5am. I would space out those slow feeders to make him move...use it or lose it or in the case of excessiveness, going down the IR road...must earn it, not just want it. I'd add water to the mix, not because of bad teeth here, but taking every advantage of adding more water to the diet. Water makes the world go round. I would add warm water in winter and create a daily mash, much more nutritious/safer than bran, Biotin is another one that is deficient in these bags. The need is 20mg/day, now check the labels. A good B vitamin for hoof strength (along with the copper), but won't see the effects probably until next spring. Knowing the basics of the nutrition rules of the road may get you thinking differently and seeing those labels with a better eye. I would take a step up from the local feed store and check Uckele's products out. They are balanced, complete, feeding tsps. instead of lbs. for the money and they are all approved by Dr. Kellon, who is affliated with them. There is good help there. Make it count where it matters. See the big picture and address it. What you're avoiding is the baddies, like iron, sugar and starch. (These were all hidden on both of these feed bag labels. now why is that? ) Hope this helps.....
  13. Smilie's Crushed Gravel Corral

    Congratulations!
  14. Time To Rasp? Two Weeks After "new Trim"

    It was a good trim and in the span of 2 weeks, I can see the corrections happening. My trouble is that although the pics are great, I'm suspicious of the run of bone. I need to see back to the ergot on the heels shots and on out to the toe and all feet on this horse especially, should be held by the front of the fetlock and let hang. The trimmer has obeyed the sole and and is a keeper. She was sore, right? How's that doing? To try to show you about the medial/lateral balance I've run lines on the RF of the older "sore" post and again on the RF here. If you can open them both up in Photo shop and click from one to the other, you can see the difference between a good trim and only two weeks. http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/10063565936/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/10063575076/ a) If you compare the yellow heel length, you can see a longer distance from the band to the top of the heel on the left side on the old. With the new, more balanced. See the wall height above the quarters on both sides compared to the sole line. You now have more wall showing on the right/medial side now. Sole is receding on the right and showing that it wants to come down, which leaves a high spot at 10-11 o'clock at the toe (left of the center line) A little tweak at this spot (as long as you are not invading the sole) will round out the toe and make a perfect sunset. In the old one, the sole at the toe looks more perfect, but the sole is on the move, developing and getting its ducks in order....patience and obey it and just know it for now. c) I drew in the rear coronary band/shape and balance. See the difference there. On the old one, the horizontal length of the right side is shorter than the outside, showing the typical jam and splat. The new one, is more even. d) The straightening of the center line, which I should have mentioned it first, because its the most noticeable. So, even though the pics are good, they are not telling me enough on the run of bone, but it doesn't worry me. Whatever the trimmer did was good and I see improvement. Heels need to come down a tad. Be aware of the existing heel balance and take the heels down just a tad keeping the same balance. Clear the quarters and also follow the sole like the trimmer did. The trimmers done a good job, compliment it with your tweak. The only thing I don't see a difference in, is the frog, but patience on that as well. Once the heels improve more, get stronger/straighter/more developed/continued thrush care, the central sulcis will fill in and become a dimple that it should be. Remove any flaps. Where the back of the heel bulbs meet the frog, that crack between them, I would work a medicated/cleaning Q-tip and find/clean the bottom through there. The Q-tip should curve downward, then run forward a bit, just the like the collateral groove runs out the back of the foot. Remember, if any infection is hiding at the bottom of a crack, it will continue to eat away, even though everything looks good at the surface. I have a feeling that whatever the applicator is being used for the thrush meds, just won't get down in there like a gentle Q-tip would. This will also help the heels to spread wider. So, I would run the gauntlet on the depth of that crack until that crack isn't there anymore. Just having examined this one foot, I see the improvement.
  15. Unsure Of What To Do

    I would stop soaking so much, booting when out and in on shavings overnight bare to dry out. I would also want to see a meticulously balanced trim as well. It looks like he's standing on a lot of flare, which means the separation is still being promoted. I'd need to see other pics, but the vettec sounds like a good idea as well. There's a lot of torque at the toe.
  16. A New Trim, A Sore Horse, I Can't Win. Pics Included

    Sarah, it depends on how developed the hoof is, whether the sole line will show the arch in the quarters. Just follow the sole and it will be right for the hoof at that time. Bevelling it will relieve torque on it. Maintaining the wall at sole level and beveled is what frees up the hoof to develop better, while you just keep following the sole. If you don't follow the sole, you can take too much, or not take enough. In my opinion, wall shortness does not help with flare. If flare has to grow out from the coronary band, then why would trimming the hoof short to eliminate just the bottom skirt help? You can have wall above sole if you don't have the concavity to bring it down to sole level at the time...with confidence....because that bevel, well placed and maintained will keep the torque off and allow tighter growth all by itself.
  17. A New Trim, A Sore Horse, I Can't Win. Pics Included

    Maybe she tried to produce a perfect hoof, for an example for you. The only problem is that the hooves weren't ready for it. Yes to the boots for now. The right front has some false sole remaining and the bevel takes the wall below that sole, which puts it alone and the concavity/trim shortness rule has been arrived at...my first impression was "short enough" only on the solar side, I'm not seeing the concavity for an already transitioned foot to take this trim. She is halfway to correction in the trim as far as balance is concerned and would hope that it will be corrected again in not too long a period. Balance is balance. You either have it, or you don't and you need growth to work with now, so you can get balance. Wear the boots and protect for now and keep moving. Your homework will catch her up to this trim, put her own spin on things and hopefully the trim won't need to be so severe next time. ITs not a severe trim, its a good trim on a transitioned horse, just severe for your horse at this time. Nevertheless, it will be a big promotion, just protect and move. Treat for thrush in the fronts as well. I'd like to see healthier frogs. I would look to cleaning up the bars more every few days. They are still high and needing a better shape. The bars, which should be at sole level 1/2 way back on the frog, should ramp up straight to meet the heel platform height dead on. The red arrows point to the bars that want to be. The rest is excess. With the trim shortness, it becomes a suspect matter of what is left to jam up in this shorter hoof. All the area outside of the proper drawn bars is excess. The purple areas are splatted bar laying on the sole and should be trimmed down until you can't see them anymore, because you got them off the sole and gone. The groove I also can't see in front of the ramps and they need a small 45 degree tweak to back them off of the frog and eliminate any pinching. I see it on other hooves too.The red dots are possible high spots/mounds....take them down enough just to flatten them so they aren't jamming up into the hoof. Taking off paper thin layers every few days to get these places happier will help to relieve her discomfort. http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/9812568074/ On the RR solar, the bar on the inside of the hoof is pretty good all down the length of the frog. You want the outside bar to look the same. You can see that the bar has migrated over the sole and takes it from a ramp to a wedge shape. There is a dirt line between the bar and the sole between their overlap. You scrape the whole length of that dirt line back to form a straight ramp shape. It will also uncover the proper shape of the heel/sole like the other side as well. What is in front of the outside ramp is a wormy mound of bar going to the apex. On some feet, you'll see it ring right around the frog. You want this area to look like the other side as well, so what's in front of the ramp, paper thin layers, every few day. Anywhere you can't see the groove, bevel it back so the frog can breathe and escape getting pinched. If you look at the solar shot on the LR, the outside bar is also a long mounded worm. Create the flat to ground surface running straight to the heel platforms on the ramps, and what is in front of it, paper thin layers. Look at the whole shape of that bar and how it runs...its running straight into the frog before it turns and goes forward...the whole thing is in pinching formation. Don't be afraid to carefully pare the bar back where it pinches in the worst, clear the groove and stop the pinch. Where that bar pinches into the frog, its running under it, bridging. Its already crossed the groove. Now the horse is stepping on a sandwich of ground, bar under frog and up into the corium, so pare back a bit, bevel back and give the frog some room to breathe. This is my biggest feeling of discomfort with these feet. Insufficient bar work. I also don't agree with this scoop shape to the ramps, rather than a straight ramp. If you look to the inside bar on this hoof, step on the heel platform, then what? Huge bump up where heel meets bar...that's what the horse is landing on, not the heel. Then bar scoops down and is immediately/completely gone from support.....not a straight ramp that supports along its whole length. What is in front of the ramp also bumps up again, right where the pinch inward is. Should be flat surfaced, bevelled back and maintained at the same level that the ramp starts to rise out of...a thin layer at a time. Check these places on all feet. On the LF, if you look at the imagined ends of the bar ramps, on the top, you'll see a spot of dirt on the side. On the bottom ramp, there is a bigger dirt spot. When bar ramps are excessive they jam all the way down the length of them. When the pressure gets past the end of the ramp, there is no more ramp strength to take it, so it punches in deeper. If that spot on the bottom is ground in and has depth and the whole thing is sitting on a mounded higher spot than the ramp end, then flatten it down. On the top side, the smaller dirt is also a punch into the hoof at the end of the ramp. This is how abscesses are born, from these punches of excessive bar in front of the ramp. You'll see other signs as well, like a crack on the end of the ramp and more cracks on the sole/bar beside it....like an impact zone. These ones go straight into the corium It's the same with the whole bar swerving back into the frog, bridging under it and jamming into the corium as well. It's more gradual knife work that these hooves need to find better comfort with the trim.Some of those central sulcis flaps could have been bevelled back to breathe better as well, but they weren't touched. That would have helped with less thrush and stronger frogs, but with shorter heels, I imagine they'll be getting their ducks in order fast. Keep after the thrush to clinch it. Hope this helps...
  18. Optical Illusion, Or Does This Need Rasping?

    There is flaring for a reason. There is sheering going on at the back from heel imbalance. . <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/9685138972/" title="LEFT FRONT HEEL BALANCE by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2849/9685138972_f6008058e6.jpg" width="500" height="423" alt="LEFT FRONT HEEL BALANCE"></a> Here's the link as well, just in case the above didn't work; http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/9685138972/ The sole shows where the wall is excessive. The heel balance needs to be corrected which is the white line and all wall height above the sole going forward on both sides..follow the sole forward from balanced heels.
  19. Transitioning To A Barefoot Horse?

    Yes, different kinds of terrain, but some terrain is meaner than others, so you start with the easiest and work towards gravel. Gravel IS graduation. You must have a heel first landing on it to graduate to the next one. Say, if I had a horse that was sore after pulling the shoes. (needing some rehab) I would boot and pad for comfort, the will to move and a heel first landing...and move...20 minute Promenade Walks/day on asphalt, booted, cement barn aisle, whatever was available...then there was the Yellow Brick Road, a ring of straw and manure mix because that was all the horse could take, but still we moved. Then without boots, as long as the heel first landing remained, then uneven ground, then hard ground, then gravel. This is your homework, the trimmer is only there for an hour. Always fight thrush, Get that frog blooming and keep it that way. This is the strength of the back of the hoof. Stay on top of the trim and move to work that trim and develop the hoof. If comfortable to ride, whether booted or not.....ride. Feed flax and salt and trace minerals with low iron, probiotics. This all sounds like you're either doing it already, or want to do it anyway, doesn't it? My goal was to be able to walk the road back the land. The hydro had put quarry stone on it and I became a prisoner on my own land, as far as the horses were concerned. I filled the 60' round pen with crushed gravel and with a long muddy spring, I ended up stalling them in there to keep them dry. 2 months later, with exercise, ofcourse, we went back on that road and nobody flicked an ear at the fist-sized stones. They had rock crushing feet because they had done their homework on rocks. The limestone did the trick, but the pea gravel is better. 4" deep, it acts like a bean bag chair and strengthens the hoof north/south/east and west....when you think of a 100 different ways a horse can plant his foot....excellent therapy. Thrush doesn't survive well in gravel either. Around the water trough, gateways, places where they loaf,...after seeing the results of the riding ring, I dug out the barn and put gravel in there too! With a gravel presence in the place where he is kept, he is doing his own homework,....now do you think you would fear the gravel pathway to the arena? If you put a ruler or rasp across the hoof over the tip of the frog and measure down from there to the bottom of the groove, if its less that 1/2" then you need padding, to avoid abscesses, give confident on all ground, speed up development and most of all, protect the bone. Any damage to the bone is permanent damage, so protect. (I've just been reading how pour ins that fill the groove on out (better mimics a dirt plug) may be a better support than a pad, which is flatter and flattens down, Hmmmm) That its applied with the Eponas? Trinity??? lol! Oh, sand is not good. Congesting and straining, actually. I've heard it advised that a warm up/down on asphalt (Promenade Walk again) before heading to the area will do better for development than just the arena.
  20. The Great Pea Gravel Experiment (Pics Added 8/29)

    I rotate a Davis boot with water and whatever in it. I find the water goes with them if they need to move. The stalls look great! Very pretty mare, too! Oops, how did that get in there? :smilie: http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/9627876074/
  21. 2 Year Old Project Gelding

    He's pretty! Boy, he sure got beat up badly! No wonder he was so terrified! He certainly looks to be at peace now. I wonder if he threw something out, trying to escape that awful mare? Calling in a chiro if nothing is apparent apon inspection. The pathology can even run diagonally to a front hoof sometimes, and anywhere along the spine on the way. Another must is a good balancing trim, stay on top of it and always fight thrush. I'm no help on the conformation, though I know enough to see he's just fine in that dept. I'm just glad that he is at peace now and is with you. He's going the be the horse and more, that the previous owners never knew they had in their barn. Tough luck to them! Enjoy!
  22. Update Pic Of Khan The Arab

    He won't bleach out in the sun if you feed adequate amounts of trace minerals, copper and zinc to be specific. It is a copper deficiency that does the coat damage long before the sun hits it. The sun only finishes the job. If you are going to do endurance, then this is especially important, because copper is a real winner for strengthening the connective tissues in feets as well. I rehabbed a horse who came in patchy brown/black in March, fed him minerals and he turned jet black by September and he was in the sun the whole time. I vote for his 2nd picture! I always was sucker for a black horse, lol! Gorgeous horse and good luck with him!
  23. I think this mind set is one the main reasons why IR/Cushings is so prevalent everywhere today. I tried to turn someone around on this thinking and failed. Time and time again, when there to trim, I would tell her I wasn't getting the results I should be because of the diet. She'd go to the horse's nose and go "oooooh, poor baby!" I wanted to kick her right in the rear at that moment! I told her not to open the gate to a field of lush grass, yup, foundered, too embarrassed to call me, called a farrier who threw shoes on her instead. I walked away...the horse used to be mine, was born in my barn and I thought I got her a good home....so much for that idea! I couldn't board a horse without taking complete control of that horse's welfare. Everything. I wouldn't have it any other way. They would be allowed to bring one apple a day to keep the vet away and that would be it. The only thing they would need to do is come to the barn and ride. You need a cowboy in there to distract all those cowgirls, lol!
  24. Has Anyone Ever Seen A Mirrored Saddle?

    I did when I was a kid. Couldn't even begin to lift it, it was soooo heavy! What with all the other parts that matched the saddle, I imagine the weight in all, doubled the saddle's weight. These saddle cost a lot back then. I can't imagine how much they cost today. ($10,000+?) My short foray into this discipline was accompanied by big lick feet, chains, pepper under the tail, producing 4 white socks because the judge preferred it, lots of drinking, betting and yelling. Even back then, I remember thinking, poor horse! These were American Saddlebreds in a Parade Class.
  25. The Great Pea Gravel Experiment (Pics Added 8/29)

    Great adventure! Lucky about the great floor you have in there. I had to dig out 12" of clay and start with drainage rock. You shouldn't have to dig down with urine stains, just lime the top where needed and give it a swat with a rake. I was also told in the beginning not to feed the horses on it, as it will plug up the gravel. The fork helps to bring the finer stuff to the surface where a corn broom used lightly will get more. Most of the times I feed outside, but left a corner manger intact to catch the hay below a bag. I also have another corner on the aisle of solid wall, that I want to cut out a horizontal hole (1' x 3') and attach the mouth of the bag to the inside of the hole and just stuff it from the aisle. Right now I'm using a feed tub in that corner with a bag hanging over it and it works too. I've also found that they dig down where they stand to eat and and one rubber floor mat will prevent that and hold the droppings up out of the gravel long enough for them to clean it up. For the most part, I don't feed them in the barn, though and I eliminated my stalls. In summer, if I did, they'd poo in there, attract the flies and lose their refuge. In winter, I feed the farthest from the barn of all. You must rake it to perfection every day, lol! Who'd have thought such a thankless job of manure would give back finally, in the zen feeling you walk away with. The dust took a couple of months to settle in the barn, but when being used, I'd sprinkle it lightly with water from a watering can to keep it out of their noses. I don't need to do that anymore.