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Everything posted by missyclare

  1. Anyone Ever Used Bio-zin?

    You've actually found a product that has the daily requirement of biotin in it...20mg. You won't see that very often. Its got lots of goodies in it. A lot of sulphates in the mineral forms, which are not as bio-available as others. I don't see magnesium on the list, but is mentioned in the ingredients list, though probably not enough. Another thing that's missing is iron. IT's in there, being hidden and inquiring minds want to know how much, lol. It's also short 100mgs. of copper and on a hay only diet in the winter. 900mgs. short on vit.E. (if he's a 1000lb. horse), but although I'd would like to ask these things to the manufacturer, I think fmjcarol's testimonial is hard to refute. Biotin does take up to 7 months to work, it produces a healthier hoof growing down behind it....sounds pretty close to the time it takes to grow a new healthier hoof. My only regret is that the copper is short. It's the real winner when it comes to hoof strength.
  2. Been A Long Time...heidi Checkup...missyclare?

    Left Rear http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/9540682918/ I"m lowering the left heel just a tad and only re-shaping the heel platform on the right. Straight across, flat to ground surface and wall height not going up and up as it goes around the corner. Note carefully the sole line. IF you look at this pic without lines, you'll see another line just below the sole line. Establish this sole line carefully and get all down even with it. The goal here is to re-shape, but leave the heel height, but take a bit more toe, clearing the quarters on the way. I just tweaked the bar on the left, but moved over and also brought down the bar on the right. And this is what it should look like when you're done. http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/9540654914/ Right Rear http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/9541812251/ Hope this helps....
  3. Been A Long Time...heidi Checkup...missyclare?

    Well, she's come a long way, is in excellent care, is getting a good trim and it shows. Even though she's base narrow, you must try to find balance and restore it. You do that by following the sole line. Your walls are above live sole, so that means that the load is on them alone (peripheral loading). To obey the sole, you must get level with it and follow it all the way around. Right Front http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/9532951705/ The black lines are balance, along with the sole line. See where the wall height is in comparison? See how the red and black lines part company starting at the quarters on back? Even with the sole, following the sole. She has excellent hoof colors and you can see the sole line beautifully. http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/9532951471/ The wall is now even with and following the sole. The heels, I took down just a bit, more on the left heel, more on the left quarter. All I've done on the right heel is tweak a new flat to ground surface and preventing the wall from going up and up as it goes around to the side. Feel the flatness of the whole surface, right to the outer edge of the heel platform, just like my straight heel balance line. See how the wall height follows the sole line? When you do that, the quarters are automatically cleared. When you move forward from getting the wall level with sole, then set your bevel as usual, the toe will automatically be brought back just the amount that it needs to. Balance the heels, get wall down to sole, set the bevel. Also another layer shaved off the bars on this foot. Think shape. Pull back on the heels by reversing the rasp, hanging the hoof low and pulling right back towards yourself until the heel balance line has been reached and the surface is flat to ground. Left Front http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/9535945260/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/9535939984/ Now to give the hinds my complete attention. Big improvement there also! I'll be back!
  4. Long Toes And Lameness Issue

    He is right. Your horse didn't get this way overnight and won't remediate overnight either. The idea is to remove barriers and coax, not dictate and lame. He's gone thru some great positive changes. Stay on top of the trim so that he can remove torque and allow the inflammation to subside. This trimmer is a keeper. Was the past hoof conformation the cause of this incident? In short, yes, he was using a hoof that was out of balance. The hoof lands heel first just like you, then rolls forward evenly on both sides of the hoof and breaks over to lift off between 10 and 2 o'clock on each side of the toe. When the toe is long, its like wearing a clown's shoe.This toe gets in the way of every aspect of his stride. He lifts off late, because the breakover is extended way out there with the toe growth, possibly too late to get out of the way of the hind foot coming. He lifts his knees up higher for the next stride to also clear that toe and not trip. Gone is the sweeping economical way of moving, the float he was born with as a foal. When he sets that foot down, the toe gets in the way again and lands before the heel or flat, toe and heel landing together, not heel first. This sends the motion of all the tendons and ligaments into reverse and grinding backwards, instead of flowing forward. That reversal brunt focuses right back to the navicular bone. The added torque on the toe, with help from all the connecting tendons, also pulls down on P3's nose, As the toe migrates forward, it pulls the whole hoof forward with it, including the heels. Soon, the heels are so pulled forward that they invade the quarters and plug them up to lose their flexion. ( the quarters are the arch of his foot. Imagine wedging the arch of your foot and walking) Soon, the heels get so pulled forward, they are walking on the backs of them, instead of the tops with their surfaces facing the ground. Now he's smushing his heels forward and helping the pathological process. Eventually the heel will break out, possibly taking the whole side of the foot with it. This is the horse self-trimming to relieve his situation. With no heel, he is down in the back and sporting a neg. palmer angle, which is P3's nose higher than the back and you can really imagine the pull going on with DDFT now. (Imagine walking with with high heels on backwards.) The main contender is the DDFT, a tendon that comes down the back of the hoof, past the navicular bone, and under the coffin bone to attach to underside/middle of P3. When the horse breaks over that toe, the torque is like you bending your fingernail backwards and walking on it. The force goes up the front wall of the hoof, increasing as it goes. The DDFT in the back is pulled harder, crowding the navicular bone as it goes past and pulls down on the bone's nose from its attachment underneath. This is a really rough drawing, but I hope it explains what's happening.... http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/9404222877/ A low nose has two areas of inflammation going on. The sole will be thinned as the toe migrates forward. You have the low nose meeting the ground and inflammation from getting beat up and the bigger one...inflammation on the inside of the thin sole from the bone coming down on it at the same time from the horse's descending weight. This is what beats up P3's nose. This is why the conservative trim in increments....gives him time to grow a thicker sole to protect that bone and get all the other ducks in order with it. If he does the trim completely in one go, he would lower the walls and bring P3's nose and thin sole even closer to the ground and lame him. If you put a ruler or rasp across the hoof, then measure down to the bottom of the groove at the apex of the frog, and you get 1/2" or less, you must wear boots and protect that bone at all costs, until he gets his ducks in order. Have you addressed the inflammation by way of a supplement etc.? Its the real enemy.
  5. New Horse Walking On Coffin Bone

    You can keep him barefoot, but you'll need the boots and pads to protect the coffin bone, develop and create concavity. But I wouldn't think 12 months. It doesn't take that long to build sole. With good diet, right trim, homework done, should be half that time and you can keep riding in the meantime. You can also invest in some good pads that last longer and the easy care rx are good out in the pasture. Nice that the xrays came clean. Just a touch of sidebone and evidence that there may be inflammation in the coffin joint. The thin sole on the ground is one thing, but the horse's descending weight coming down on the inside of that sole is quite another. Its the area under P3's nose that needs to be protected. On the solar side, its a 1" halo area around the tip of the true frog. Its the inflammation that is the enemy. You can add flax to the diet, to help with that. Trace minerals also, that are low iron. It is really nice to see that the xrays are clean despite the thin sole. preserve that and get some padding under him. Any damage to P3 is permanent damage. If he's sore, or has less than 1/2" concavity, he needs protection. Is gravel a possibility? Be nice to see pics......what did the trimmer say? .
  6. Trimming Checkup

    Right Front Get yourself a heel view, where you can see the heel platforms, run of the frog and toe in the background. Run your eye down the run of the frog and see 12 o'clock at the toe. Then let your peripheral vision check the height of the walls at the sides and check to see if they are even according to the frog. With a solar/flat view here, I can't tell the height of things as well, but I'll venture that the right/inside is higher, bar standing up straighter and steeper into the groove. The other side has splatted outward. Knowing this, look where the bone is. I have not outlined the sole, but run the bevel line obeying the sole and the bone. You can see things are still spread out on the left side, but if you look at the sole line, you can see its receding back to the bevel line already and obeying it will get the left side's ducks in order, with the bevel taking the pull off it in the meantime. The right/high side is narrow, cause that's what happens when its higher. Gently place the bevel without too much bite back into the hoof, but make it a bit steeper bevel in the yellow bracket area, then fade out to a 45 for the rest of the hoof. This would be after you get the wall down even with the sole, medial/laterally balanced and heels balanced. Breathe the left side surface flat and bring down the right side to match. When you get the heel balance (and I've kept your existing heel balance, but may be a tad higher on the right side)..just breathe the surfaces flat and pull them back to get the shape of the red line at the back, then stay there (not going up and up) as you go around the corner to the quarters, where the wall height melds into being flat with the sole (use your thumb, close your eyes) I suggest you print out this pic, go to the barn, clean hoof and draw that green line, then follow it as the leading edge of your bevel. The important thing here is to sight down the frog and get high side down even with the left side, that no up and up is happening from the heel platform on the right side and that that quarter is cleared. When you put the hoof down for a minute, it will settle and you won't see the band on the inside quarter not jammed up so much anymore. It's clearing this inside quarter and establishing the bar ramps that is going to stop doing all this wonkiness. (its not so much heel imbalance, but the height of the bar and quarter in front of them.) The black is flare removed from the top to give you a nice even wall width around the hoof, make the shape rounder and take more pull off the toe. http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/9207069713/
  7. Trimming Checkup

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/9196165897/ The bars should merge from the sole 1/2 way back on the frog and ramp straight up to meet the heel platforms dead on. The heels and the bars are working together to push the wall out. See the depth of the existing bar walls? Possible high spot on the right rectangle. Just skim the hump off it, if need be. The purple at the apex is smushed frog on the sole and can be gently scraped off as well. (rubbery) http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/9199082826/ All that is white is flat to ground, even with the sole and staring you right in the face. The red line outside of that is the bevel line and everything a 45 degree angle right out from there. The black at the toe, you need to run your rasp around the rim until the wall is the same thickness all the way around. The yellow area is 1/2 of the existing bar wall height lower and merging with the existing in front and out to the side. Basically the yellow area is the area where the lowering/merging needs to happen. See how straight ramped my ramps are? No bumping up high or higher than the heel anywhere along that run...straight. The turquoise lines are a small 45 bevel to give the frog some breathing room. Check the heel balance. Better at seeing with the heel shot.. Remember...all white is flat to ground, so pull back until the heel platform is flat and staring you right in the face again. Even if you're just using the fine side of the rasp and just shaping the heel platform tops without bringing them down....achieve a flat surface anyway. I think the heels can be brought down a tad more...closer to both being even with the back of the frog. Just the yellow area. Anything else, I just like to smooth out any offending bumps. The higher the bump, the harder it jams into the hoof, the slower I sliver it down. More damage to heal. Skim off the top of the hump and stop the jamming, but leave the rest to act as a bandaid for the healing below To me, that includes the seat of the corn....no bumps, not higher than heel platform or wall to the side, but still a smooth surface on it to protect while it heals and gets its own ducks in order. Take another sliver later, if you feel the area is still offending. The two most important needs of this hoof are properly established bar ramps and a stronger bevel. The rest will get its own ducks in order. Nice frog! Hope this helps. Will do the others later if you wish.
  8. Vet Vs Barefoot Trimmer...i Just Want The Best For My Horse

    My vet said the same thing to me. What he didn't see is that Walter has been transitioned and developed for 8 years and abscesses don't happen around here. It turned out to be his sacro-illiac, and not the abscess that he was convinced of. Vets actually spend very little time learning about feets and since the barefoot trim has come out, some have not bothered to update on it. A farrier that doesn't want you to share in the work, yet doesn't show up for that long makes me pause. Guess what, its your horse. If you feel the need to touch up his feet, you go right ahead. You won't hear me gasping for breath. When there is too much time between trims, the growth becomes pathological. Then, on big trim day, the hoof is taken back down to the usual parameters, but the pathology from that growth is still there, worse, its not being promoted to be stronger....kinda like spinning your wheels from trim to trim. If the big trim doesn't make him instantly sore, he will be at higher risk for abscesses because the sole is not getting thicker and developing, but spinning its wheels also. Torque from too much wall height pulls on the hoof and does thin the sole. Make sense? I'd have to see these feet to know if they are too short or not. The wall height can up the risk for abscess and sensitivity if the hoof is not ready for it, but its the sole that gets hurt with an abscess and its a thin sole that is especially vulnerable to the ground. (excessive bars can play in this too..they also thin the sole) This could also be continuing on from trim to trim....not being promoted to get thicker. Follow the concavity rules. Measure down to the bottom of the groove beside the apex to the top of the wall height. Anything less than 1/2" needs boots with padding. Optimal is 3/4" measurement. See what he is when the trimmer leaves. I suspect the culprit is the stones in his paddock, that his hooves are not developed well enough. Add the spinning the wheels on the pathology from the length of trim times, not enough movement ......and yes to abscesses. (sometimes its just plain old Murphy's Law) If he can't take the rocks in his paddock and is getting set back, then you'll never be able to ride without boots. Development is key and what I'd do is go and put more rocks in that paddock and make him do his homework, only 4" deep pea gravel, around the watering trough, gateways, places that he hangs out. Those other rocks already there won't matter anymore, cause he'll have rock crushing feet.....that's development....that's a thicker sole. That's a hoof that self trims and can wait for 7 weeks, maybe not need the farrier at all anymore, or the boots, just your touch ups. I agree with Trinity that the trim time should be 4 weeks. You need to stay on top of the trim to promote the pathology gone, or you can increase it while you wait for the farrier. More movement and development is needed, barring the more movement, make it quality time movement on stones. I also dislike that he doesn't want you touching your horse's feet. That really rubs me the wrong way. You are your horse's primary care giver! I hate to see people put over a barrel like that. Go for the gravel. Development is the answer. If you get a chance, post some pics. No need to be over a barrel and alone.
  9. I Thought These Videos Were Awesome! Just What I Needed!

    She's a character and she's been studying hard. She mentions that she would take much bars, but did., but in the interest of showing you the structures underneath, she accomplished. I wouldn't have lowered the bars any more on that foot at the start. When started "coming up the bar", the area that she begins is a sensitive area. Unless it is chalking out, take no more than a sliver at a time from this area. Aim to clear the groove, bevel it back and smooth out the lumps and come back in a few days. From the end of the ramp forward is sensitive area, but if its large enough to be jamming, then the damage to this sensitive are is equal, so work on it, a sliver at a time. I would also have left the ramp cleaned up, standing up, lower than the heels, but still present. The bars and their connection to the heels are like part of the chassis system for the back of the hoof, especially where contracted heels are concerned. I don't want the bars jamming, but I don't want them entirely gone either. I tend to think of what I leave, rather than what I take. Did you notice how Molly was such a good girl? Oh yeah, she knows the drill, lol!
  10. Baby Coblet Enjoying Summertime

    He is a beauty! I'd fall in love with him too! Something happened with the pics. They are distorted vertically somehow. I love his markings....very unique. It was the two pics with all four feet off the ground at once, is what got my eye. Don't ever lose that....a sign of balance and good functioning foot. You're so lucky to own a cob. They are a ridiculous price and just a dream for me in Canada. Nice horse!
  11. Lets Take About Serious Sidebone For A Moment

    . Me? I guess I'd do it differently. I'd keep on working to get the hoof balanced and be patient for the inner ducks to get in order, remember, he didn't get this way overnight. ... The hoof with quarters cleared, the excessive bar smoothed down and check for bridging under the frog, put them on pads in a hoof boot and work that trim. Owner to do booting, thrush care and movement on a daily basis. The owner must do the homework if there is to be any improvement. Forgotten out to pasture didn't work. By the pathology you describe, he was forgotten. If you coax the foot to be flexible, the sidebone may just break up and re-absorb...or not, but its worth a try. This takes movement and freedom and working this flexion to try and get it back. Xrays would definitely be good in a lot of respects. I would pay particular attention to optimal medial/lateral balance at all times. I would discuss a daily exercise regime. On asphalt walking to warm up, then increasing and decreasing circles, figure 8's etc. In hand, done at a comfortable speed, on asphalt to warm down again. I would check his diet and add flax and Move Ease (mybesthorse.com) to fight inflammation, minerals biotin, methionine, etc. Low iron/sugar/starch and make sure IR isn't undermining you. I can attest to the Move-Ease, as its made my eyebrows go up a few times. I've found the same comfort without Bute and have been able to avoid Bute. Bute interferes with healing and promotes ulcers. The Move-Ease is affordable and will also address the inflammation of arthritis present and future...hoof or shoulder. He's lame. He doesn't have a job to do. Put him in boots for therapy and confidence to move and work it. Give him a job to do and always have patience. Just my opinion...........
  12. Question On Lameness

    Please do post pics. Body shots and all hoof shots according to the sticky at the top. Was she sound throughout winter without shoes? Was she trimmed throughout the winter? What are your riding plans? Do you have those old xrays? Did she have a heel first landing with confidence when barefoot? How old is she? She should prefer to stand square and not rest on her laurels. When you take the body shot, tie her up and give her a minute to stand the way she wants to, then take it.
  13. Mind If I Request A Critique?

    The pics are gone from the old thread and I can't save these one to work with them. You're doing a pretty good job, though. Nice sunset on the pic right above here, though the inside high has been corrected greatly from the old trim, there still is a hint of it. Let the hoof grow for a week, then tweak the inside, along with just a sliver of excess bar material that's forward of the bar ramps. The frog has that puddled look, so I'd treat for thrush and make sure that what is trying to develop is not being undermined by any bacteria being harbored in cracks and layers hiding underneath. This is where a Q-Tip would come in handy. The pics must not be jpegs. or something. When I click on it, it enlarges, but a right click won't give me "save image as" so that I can take it and open it with Photoshop. Did you take these with your phone? See if you can change their properties. Otherwise, the pics are good to work with.
  14. Here We Go! Pictures...

    LOL! I was wondering who was torturing who there for a second! Price out a small load of gravel vs. the boots. If you can raise an area (where they eat, or loaf, or have to pass thru gateways) it will help with the drainage, thrush and development. Of course, daily thrush care is also a very cheap treatment. That and trace minerals will also make a difference, along with lots of movement. This is her homework. Tell her that I've asked for pics at the next trim to see the response on the hoof. (1 month) If she hasn't done her homework, I will be able to tell, lol! What I really want to see is the hoof's response to this trim. I have a feeling its going to be a good one.
  15. Here We Go! Pictures...

    You're too humble. You've done an excellent job! Improvement in the making. http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/8803338754/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/8792655573/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/8792731531/ I would establish the leading edge of the bevel a little tighter, being the heavy blue line. Everything out from that is bevelled in a strict 45 all the way around. What you see of that crack is crack on the ground getting torqued at breakover. The tighter bevel will get the whole thing up off the ground. Pulling harder on the left side (excess toe outward on left and check marked shape of crack itself....pull) Harder pull on the left side, biting into the right. The solid blue is gone, leaving a width of wall that is symetrical in thickness, all the way around, producing a rounder hoof print. It also runs the points of the crack together on that symetrical thickeness. The bite back of left flare on the right side that produced the check mark crack shape is a nice beveled entry, but the shorter right side is catching the brunt kinda shape and although I didn't show it here, I would bevel that angle back and round it so that something coming in on it would follow on out, instead of slamming head on into it and sending it up the hoof. Rounding but maintaining as much symetrical thickness as you can. Streamlining. ("The more symetrical the runs are over both sides of the crack = less torque = allowing to heal and grow down.) See how the heels are pulled forward? Look what's in the sole area between the bars and wall. The bars need to come down and ramp from the sole to the heel. What is in front of them should be sliced hair thin at each trim, starting with the tops of any lumps or bumps. The 2 white circles on each side is congestion, lumps of soreness, keeping the heels pulled forward, preventing good heel balance, not allowing the horse to settle into the trim and cause for further separation. Let them be there, but not intrusively, or with a lumpy/jamming shape on their tops. Check them again after the trim. The heels need to be pulled back to the black line and produce a straight line, like my line. Reverse the rasp and pull back on the heels as you balance them. Can you imagine with that forward congestion gone, how much easier it is to imagine the heels coming back? Right back to the line and all heel tops looking at me. The two inner points (black dots) are the heel balance. The wall should stay straight and square going across the heel, then ramp down to be even with the sole...at the quarters, then stay there. Hopefully this pic will show it better. its about the height of the wall as it leaves the heel and goes around the corner. http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/8793485907/ Look what I've done to the quarter heel run on the side shot. One straight run. Quarter cleared, heel included, coronary band relaxed....lateral cartilages relaxed. http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/8803245070/ Especially with this picture, as P3 is on its nose. So, the excessive bar, any nasty lumps and bumps, congestion, the shape of the heels, the clearing of the quarters, are all part and parcel of getting working flexibility back into this hoof. She has got to get a thrush regime going. You are defeated if she doesn't. I'd also have these hooves in boots, if the concavity is less than 1/2" If this horse has foundered, then there may already be damage. No use adding to it. It will speed transition up, protect the crack, protect the bone and protect from abscessing and promote the confidence to move. Its a great first trim!
  16. What Is A Good Coat/hoof/general Health Supplement?

    I got a bag of flax and a $10 coffee grinder and grind just before feeding....4oz. each. (for a yearling, I'd start at 2-3oz/day) Flax has the perfect omega balance for horses. So does chia and you don't have to grind it. My bag of flax lasts 3 horses well over 6 months. Omega 3 (anti-inflammatory) is higher than 6 (inflammatory) so its an anti-inflammatory for the whole body. 6 isn't bad though, its about balance. Omega 6 is the health of the alarm system that gets important in older horses. The balance with the higher 6 comes in sunflower seeds. The omegas are also the only fat that the horse requires. Any other oil is just fat and has no nutritional value whatsoever. Fat is fat. I figure you may as well load it into a needle and inject it under the skin to make fatty pads, cause that's exactly where its going. What you don't see is the fat accumulating around the organs. (the feed bag label should not exceed 5% fat and if they aren't touting low iron, its probably high and if you can't see a number for iron, they are hiding it and you have to call them, sigh) Getting the hay tested and setting your own path is easier. The winter coats are out around here now and what is underneath is magnificent. Feed trace minerals and flax and you get a deep shine, in the color they were meant to be. Copper and zinc being deficient in the face of high iron, bleached ends on manes, tails, brown noses, eyes, poor hooves etc. is a copper deficiency, damage that has been happening and has allowed the sun to bleach. I turned such a horse to jet black, in the summer sun once. I've seen this mottled color mistaken for anemia and high iron supplements fed instead....ahh!) Copper is also very important for the strength of connective tissue in the hoof. But like Smiley says, get the hay tested and get it balanced. You'll be filling the holes on the whole nine yards....protein, DE, major minerals, trace minerals. electrolytes, sugar, starch, etc. You can order a customized supplement that is free of iron, is right for your hay and perfect for her. They'll even put it in a flax base for you, but shipping is cheaper if you add the flax in the barn. I can't remember how much that bag of flax cost me, its been so long since I've bought one, lol. My take on the words supplements? Horses are designed to eat grass. Anything other than grass, is a supplement. He goes and eats something else next to the grass, he's supplementing his own diet. Everything we provide is supplemented to the horse. All of it is supplements. Hay is just as much a supplement as chondroitin sulphate is. Its the balance that is key.
  17. Golden Palomino Fades During Summer

    I went with the solid nutrition route, cause the horse needed it anyway. Specifically, trace minerals, especially zinc and copper. In my nutrition class, we were balancing the horses diets and learned that its high iron that causes so many problems. One was noticing the bleached ends of manes and tails and browning out in places like the nose and eyes. High iron plugs up the uptake and won't let copper and zinc be absorbed. The goal was to feed higher amounts of trace minerals to compete with the presence of high iron and get these three in balance with each other. Three months into the course and people started posting pictures of the color changes in their horses and some of them were really impressive. I remember two dusty brown horses, one turned jet black and the other went to a brilliant palomino. Was pretty amazing. Later on, I had a horse in my care that was this same mottled color and got him balanced and turned him jet black...in the summer sun, in 4 months. A good trace mineral supplement with low iron, so zinc and copper have a fighting chance was the answer. Copper is also important to the strength of connective tissue in the hoof. Add some fresh ground flax and you get a deep omega shine to go with the color he was born with. Hope this helps, will certainly help the horse tons more than paprika would.
  18. Sole? False Sole?

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/8725300456/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/8725301748/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/8725302636/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/8724260417/ This last one shows just what is, to help you know at what you are seeing. This is the RR. The black areas beside the frog are bar ramp heights. The left is straight because this side is higher and pounding straight up the wall, the left side is flared outwards, then the trim stopped it, but the bar is still too high. The green area is good concavity and on further to the right side. At the toe in the green, you can see a ghost of residual frog still sitting on the sole and left behind as the frog receded. Yellow is all bar. Red is bridging bar, in red because it is more painful. The bar got smushed across the groove and under the frog. If you look at the solar side shot, you'll see it flowing up into a lump. The black areas on the outside of the hoof is separation caused by the bars. As you look at the general contour of the interior of the hoof, you see the lumps, bumps and high plateaus of bar. At the right heel, the bar ramps starts to leave the heel at an even level, but then bumps up to higher. It should be level with the heel and ramp straight down from there, not up.The dots on the central sulcis show jamming up on the left side and flare on the right side..frog showing it.just like the hoof...medial/later imbalance. The frog is still sickly and needs the heels lowered to give it something to do. The 2 red lines on the left side separation is the wall about to break out. The quarters were lowered, but that's only half the picture. The bars needs to come down as well.The white area is one example of live sole at this time. Look to the area beside it to know how much thickness of false sole remains. The bars should merge from the sole halfway back on the frog and ramp in a straight line to meet the heel platforms dead on. They shouldn't look like scoops. (not here, but on other feet) These ramps should be right on the other side of the groove from the frog. Anything farther out is bar either pushing the sole out of its way and causing the separation or laying over the sole like a blanket. The correct heel balance and bar ramp heights should be done now, the lumps and layers over the sole beside and in front of the bar ramps should be slivered down gradually every few days until they are smooth and at a level that compliments the ramps. Most of this is bar overgrowth, not false sole. It won't mush out with a hoof pick, but if you soak and mush what will come out, it will leave the bar ramps standing higher and really show you where they are. It is the bar ramps that are holding in false sole at the back, with the heel height obeying it instead. The left heel needs to be brought down and back to be in balance with the other, (brought it down a bit too), bar ramps lowered and everything else slivered off gradually where it bumps up and shouldn't be. Coaxing. You'll find that you have less and less to do as this foot is improving. Leave the bars there and you don't coax and hoof is locked up, getting torqued and not improving. Hope this helps. Ahh! I gotta get to bed! I have to work until 1pm and first born son is getting married at 3pm. Crazy day ahead.
  19. Sole? False Sole?

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/8723144559/ It helps if you know what you are looking at. Hope this pic helps. The black areas along the side edges of the hoof wall is separation caused by excessive bar. They are growing forward, but since high, are splatting out to the side on the right, jamming straight down the wall on the left. The black also shows the height of everything coming up out of the groove. The red line across the heels is the heel balance. You can see that the left side heel is higher than the right. The left side is jamming up straight down the wall into the hoof, then the other side comes into play and the energy is splatted out the other side, which is why everything is flared on that side. The yellow dots show the shape of the groove around the sulcis area. The line is straight, but the back of the frog is also getting splatted to the flared side. So sulcis dots on the left are pounded and dots on the right are flared, just like the hoof. All the yellow lines are bar, in patches, fractured shapes, leaning, bumping up and bridging and layers and all the nice things excessive bars do. The red area is bar that is bridging. Because of the higher left side, the black area coming out of the groove is fairly straight, but the flared side was flaring badly, got a trim that straightened up the growth, but that bar is still high and excessive. Do you see how that bar on the right side leaves the heel level with it, then takes a giant step higher? We want it down level with the bar that leaves the heel and ramps down from there, not up. All the yellow colored area is bar that is pounding. The green area is nice, and the area to right/behind it is concavity shaping up. The white area is live sole or the best example of it at this point in time. This hoof, I suspect had a lot of pathology going on when the trim started, but things are shaping up. I see positive things happening. It looks the trimmer got the toe in shape, but didn't get the heels balanced or pulled back and cleaned up. The heels, being high, the wall down to sole at the quarters, the false sole being obeyed at the toe, has given the foot print a cupped shape. If the heels were square and down even, the footprint would be more evenly weighted all around. I suspect that the quarters were lowered to relieve the separation, but that's only half the answer. The bars also must be lowered to allow the heels to really be the height that that are given. Otherwise, you are not walking on heel platforms, but higher bar is dictating. It could be that medial/lateral balance is being corrected, and still has a way to go. The frog is receding and heels are opening up. The bar ramps should merge with the sole halfway back on the frog and ramp straight up to meet the heels dead on. In the area between the bars and the quarter wall should be shaved down enough to not be higher than the new heels, otherwise, just the lumps taken off them, so no pinch points of jam are on them. Forward of the bar ramps, the height of the bar should flow on forward, but only by a thin shaved layer at a time. Anything that is on the outside of the proper bar ramp location is bar that is laying on top of the sole like a blanket. Any bumps in these areas should be just shaved down to take the bumps out of them, a little more every few days until you arrive. The yellow areas also show some of these bumps. I zoomed in on this RR, but in looking things over, saw another left side heel that is higher, so it might simply be the strength in the trimmers' arms at work here. Something to note. If a heel is left high, the bar is left high, the hoof will fill in to that height instead of receding, and since that side is higher, will be pounding harder and hoof asking for that fill-in to support the impact. So, now you just don't have a high wall, you have a whole high side in the interior of it as well. So, the goal is to get the bar ramps down to correct level, especially the left side and bring the heel back to be balanced. All other lumps and bumps smoothed down gradually and gently. The red lines on the left wall is excessive impact that is trying to break the wall out and relieve. Anywhere the bar height comes up really close to the frog, should have a tiny bevel back on it, so that the frog has breathing room. The red area of bridging is where it got smushed across the groove and under the frog. This one is red because it is more painful than the yellow. If you look at the solar/side view, you can see it coming up out of the groove in a lump. Take a layer of height off it and make sure the groove is clear of bar. Thin shavings, one layer, check back in a few days and see if you can do more. The false sole is receding, so be patient. Just sliver the lumps off the blanket and get the heels balanced and bar ramps down. If any wall has broken out, the level where it broke out to, is usually right where it wants to be, so let that be a clue and where the bar bumps are sitting on the sole, look to area beside it to get a clue to level it should be. Match levels, smooth things, layer by layer. I have to go for now, but I will draw right on this hoof what needs to be. Once you understand what you are looking at, it will help you with any hoof you look at....you'll know. Put these pics in 2 windows side by side and compare and see it for real. That also helps too.
  20. Sole? False Sole?

    That's where the bar holds the sole in...at the heels, among other things. You should soak briefly, to soften, then mush out what will come. That way you will always be safe from over exposing the real sole before its time. This should be the only necessary way to have to touch the sole. It has a wonderful ability to get its own ducks in order and it does and with speed, if the trim is on top of, balanced and promoting. Rainy days are good days for mushing out... its thrush food. One time I ran across a false sole that went from bar to bar around the hoof, with a convex shape, like a bladder full of air would be shaped. The false sole was left intact until it shed, which took a couple of months and well into spring workouts. The horse spent this time in a near negative palmer angle because of it, all built up in the toe. In the name of letting the hoof naturally take care of itself. I didn't agree. If you don't have balance, then you've got torque, pull, crunch and pain. A wild horse wouldn't have this problem in the first place. I would have shaped that false sole as necessary to achieve balance and left what I could. For example: Mushing out sole at the heels. The bars won't mush out and will start to stand higher above the sole, as will the wall. With the bars ramped properly, the false sole is left intact between it and the quarter wall to get its own ducks in order confidently, but the bar retaining wall is gone now and allowing it. Heels will spread too. Go for the gravel, you won't be sorry. The best way to see it is to have a really spanking clean hoof, and good light, lol. Looking forward to your pics, its too quiet around here!
  21. Starting To Become Desperate! Pictures & Video

    I'm also sorry to hear this! He was looking better in the last pics as well. He was lucky to have you, even if it was only for a short time.
  22. Sole? False Sole?

    False sole can have several different appearances, depending on the ground conditions. It will mush out with a hoof pick if soaked and ready to come out. It can crack and come out in chunks. Sometimes you can pop it off whole. It can fill the whole hoof solid or appear as lumps and calloused places. It can be hard, compressed and worn smooth. Live sole looks alive with a yellow waxy appearance, false sole doesn't. The bars are usually in that mess somewhere, showing white and won't mush out. My first indication of false sole/excessive bars is deep grooves, yet lack of concavity. The safest way is to take what will mush out with a hoof pick, then you get what's ready to come. If you slice down thru the false sole, you will find the live yellow waxy sole underneath, which will be soft as well because it hasn't been exposed and conditioned yet. If it is exposed before its time, it can lame a horse. You can get the walls down even with the sole, which will promote the sole to recede, but the bars must also be lowered, or it will hold that false sole in forever. Hope this helps....
  23. Building A Round Pen

    I'm the same as Smilie. Falling apart and don't use it much anymore...no more babies. As soon as I get in there training, we make it short and sweet and look to get out of there. Mine is also 60', 18-10' span, with 12' gate big enough to get a dump truck through. Wish I had put in steel posts. I also wish it didn't cost $15,000 to put a roof on it. Its been good for 15 years. I have crushed limestone in it and this serves also as a dry lot when needed. The boards, I went to a lumber mill for and are larger in size than store bought. They are also white oak. Horses won't chew it and it springs back when tested. The guy put one end of the board up about wheel barrow height and jumped on it...I was sold right there. Its 5' high. 2-1x8's, then 3- 1x6's. I built this all alone by hand and was crazy, I could never do it again.
  24. Ulcer Issues

    I vote for the vet/omeprazole route. You gotta get on the road to recovery and get it well healed to stop re-occurance. The spot will always be prone as it is. Plus, you want to know which ulcer it is. I've learned that you shouldn't feed grains with ulcers, that they are aggravating, so are minerals. There are better feeds on the market than this one. Adquate protein, calcium/phos. ratio is 3:1...should be 1.5 to 2:1 and the other major mineral that should be in this is magnesium, but its forgotten. So to me, the label reads as deficient in phosphorus and magnesium. Magnesium has over 300 jobs to do in the body and can improve attitude and help a horse relax. As for the trace minerals, inadequate zinc and copper, the iron number is hidden, but its there, make no mistake. Iron overload is finally being recognized for the baddie it is, so copper and zinc are deficient in the face of iron. I am also suspicious of "proprietary" and don't like the additions of rice bran and soy. The vitamin E is a joke. only not funny on a hay only diet....should be 2IU/lb of body weight, I would pull this feed and simplify the diet right down. Hay, water,, the probiotics..Ration Plus is one of the best with "billions" and that's what it takes. Aloe Vera juice is good also and so are peppermints. Always flax, with the vet/omeprazole leading the way. I'd definitely look into the Magnesium (5g/day) The elimination of ulcers may just be as simple as getting the diet balanced and the internal tools to withstand the rigors of workload.
  25. Best Time Of Day

    It takes a few hours for the sugar to get back down the blade after the sun sets and likewise for it to get back up with the sun. So, putting them out the night before (after 9) and putting them back in right after work at noon should be good enough (not in the afternoon, but noon. The actual cut off time is 10am.) Chances are, they'll want to hang out in shelter during the day to hide from heat and flies. Plus, continuing to manage the dry lot time....getting onto spring grass slowly, a dry period, then rain that causes lush growth, seasonal rise from Sept-Nov, weight gain, hoof changes. Everyday I go outside and look at the weather and think what the last few days has been like, then I decide on a daily basis, what's going to happen or not happen. When you get there after work, clean out feet and spray with vinegar...include the heel bulbs and the spine. Good way to maintain as this produces a perfect pH. The baddies thrive in a negative environment. I use No Thrush to treat both hoof and skin for treatment beyond vinegar. Poof those heel bulbs, central sulcis, grooves on both sides, anywhere the the white line isn't creamy yellow or wider than 1/8th" and rub it in with your finger. Will protect for days against dew. Just one of those tools in the tool box. If I run into fungal trouble of any kind, its been resolved immediately with just the No Thrush so far. Offering access to hay bags while they're on the grass. They know when their stomachs need to be tempered with hay in the face of the grass and they will come and eat it. Turn them out only on full hay stomachs, never hungry. The slow feeders will help you there. Copper. Feed those trace minerals and feed them to make sure they get them. Stay on top of the trim. Pea gravel, or crushed limestone (4") around the water, loafing areas, gateways, feeders. The most important one is movement. A pasture paradise track is a dry lot with movement. . Every step they take is a step in hoof/body development and is directly away from IR. I agree completely in your approach. I'm not going there either, so I treat them like they already are.