missyclare

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Everything posted by missyclare

  1. Lopsided Hoof

    Yes, you can get the bar back to where it belongs beside the groove, by scraping it back following the dirt line. Establish the ramp heights by using the material you have to create the ramps. It will look like a ramp situated lower down on the cliff. Get all the material that runs beside the groove down to where the arrows indicate. Then on the outside, it should be flat if you scraped back on the bars at the beginning, just add a little shape to make the bar and sole meld together, following the suggestion of these contour lines. Hope this helps...
  2. Lopsided Hoof

  3. Lopsided Hoof

    Wow! The bar on the left....its a bar block that has spawned 3 blocky babies on the outside of it. Serious discomfort. When the material in front of where the bar ramp begins, does not lead into it nicely and is no longer supported by the ramp itself, its a jam straight into the corium. See the black that I've removed and where. It's still not a perfect sunset and is going to have to be a work in progress. Know this foot well for the next couple of trims.
  4. Lopsided Hoof

  5. Lopsided Hoof

    Oops, my big blue dots aren't there, lol! I'll have a look at the other feet, just give me time....
  6. Lopsided Hoof

    Ok, you're gonna have to study this one. First I defined the heel height which the sand has webbed over with the frog and hidden it from you, so you could see the heel pillar roots and how they are now both the same height. I've left the height of the left one alone, but re-shaped it as it goes around and leaves the heel. The right one shows a thin curved red line of your old heel and blue lines showing the direction of the rasp strokes. Reverse the rasp in your hand and pull straight back towards yourself, rotating the rasp outward as you go forward. This expands the heel area and gives a strong back shape to the heels. Notice how the old heel goes up and up. As you are rotating and going around, stay level with the heel pillar height and don't allow this. This is how you got higher on this side. Just stay level and keep following the sole line. The heel should take on the shape of my lines instead. The center line shows where the run of the frog should be to 12 o'clock. Put these two lines together (heel balance line and sole line) and imagine that the heel balance line is the horizon on water and that the inner line (sole line) going around the hoof is the perfect sunset on that horizon. That's balance. The green represents 2 things in this view. One is how much it needs to be lowered shown by the thin red lines and the other is flare. Because this pic is not right behind the middle of the hoof and out of balance it looks wonky, but just focus on the sole line, where it is and bring everything down level with it. You should be able to close your eyes, run your thumb up off the sole, feel a direction change that's flat to ground and flat/even...straight on out from there. That's obeying the sole. Then put the bevel on. From 10-2 o'clock at the toe, the bevel should leave the inner wall intact and level with the sole, beveling at a 45 degrees on out. Past 10 and 2, on the sides, the leading edge of the bevel should fade out to only take the outer half of the wall away in bevel. On the left side, the wall is thin, so basically, just tweaking the outside corner off it. So first find your heel balance line and the sole line. Balance and shape the heels, follow the sole and get everything level with the sole line. The green shows where its high and how much. Then apply the bevel. Now the bars. The bar ramps should merge from the sole half way back on the frog and meet the heel pillars dead on. See their shape. Their surface is also flat to ground (white) and actually look like ramps. The thin red lines show how much they need to come down from the existing. The ramps need to be established. The height of the material in front of the ramps, needs to lead in nicely to the ramps, but is a sensitive place, so slivers done gradually over a week. The material outside of the bars, should be slivered gently to meld their heights together, with the white contour lines in mind. Anytime your inner voice says, quit/enough, then do so. The continued thrush care will help a lot. Just come back in a few days and see how much things have opened up, filled in with the frog, sole that's been exfoliated and how much less you actually have to do. By rights, which you can't see, is that I am probably lowering the right side of the hoof about 1/4" at its worst. But check on this as you go....hang the foot, lean forward, see the big blue dots and check to see if they are balanced with each other across the correct run of the frog. . That's balance too.The frog will quickly get its own ducks in order with this change. This is a correcting trim, so go slow and look, look look. I don't think that there will be any rasping from the top necessary at this point. Preserve the wall width you have and have faith in the bevel to hold the fort in the meantime. Hope this helps...
  7. Lopsided Hoof

    (Top left...pic 1, Top right...pic 2, Bottom left..pic 3, Bottom right...pic 4) This is "what is" to show you what you are looking at. The reason that I say sand is congesting, is because it melds things together and makes it harder to see things. Coming in from pasture, soaking for thrush, then looking/easier trimming will help, if not enough, then take pics, go to the computer and take all the time you need to see and form a plan. Pic 1...the darker band below the coronary band is new/better/well connected growth coming down. Keep doing what you are doing with the tweaking and when it reaches the ground, you will have arrived. The lines on the hoof wall are signs of imbalance, how its jamming all the way up to soft tissue. It's the inside that is high. (note the profile of the hoof wall in pic 3. This causes discomfort, horse avoids, weights the outside which is being jammed up, hence the hoof wall lines on the lateral side. Note how the width of sole is narrower on the lateral side of the frog and flared on the inside. What I call the jam and splat effect. Medial/lateral imbalance. The bevel is also a 90 degree and inconsistent going around the hoof. The 90 leaves a sharp edge on the ground, which still pulls, thins the wall at the toe where torque is the greatest and when the hoof rolls over it, (breakover) the support is just gone. A 45 applied from the bottom of the hoof sees the horse breaking over ON that bevel, that pushes the toe back to where it belongs with every step and works for you in movement, the breakover flows better, is smoother, the width of the wall remains intact for full protection and improves the concert of all 4 feet. Pic 3...If you hold the hoof from the front of the pastern, let it hang and lean forward for this same view, what you get is the run of bone and how the hoof is balanced to that run. You get the truth on what balance means to the horse and how its being delivered to the ground by that run of bone that the hoof must be a perfect extension of. You should get a straight line from ergot, thru middle of frog, to 12 o'clock at the toe. You can see by the turn in that line, that imbalance begins at the heels. Note the profile of the hoof wall itself, how it creeps higher on the right side. Note how the frog is not pointing to 12, that its not on an even keel, but banking like an airplane on a turn to the left. So, the run of the frog should be straight from toe to ergot, the balance lines crossing should be perfectly perpendicular (high sides on those lines have dots) These are all symptoms of imbalance. The don'ts? Don't touch the frog. You need every bit of callous for that sand, only flaps, which you have none of. Don't touch the sole. Concavity has to be earned and will get its own ducks in order. All the parts and pieces work together like pages in a book. The sole is the binding of that book that keeps the story organized and tells you the most. You trim it, you are ripping pages out of the book, flying blind and increasing the risk for soreness. So don't touch, read it and know it, earn it and obey it. The sole tells you what the hoof wants and obeying it puts the balance right in line, no worries. This is what is, I will continue to work on the pics, takes time, gotta do chores, will be back.
  8. Lopsided Hoof

    Hey. Hi Jubal! I'm here. Firstly, I see a nice hoof a straight run, despite the paddling and a nice trim and someone that is doing their homework, which is really nice to see. Keep up with the thrush treatments, firstly. The central sulcis should be a mere thumbprint depression sitting on top of the frog, not a crack that runs thru the body of the frog and defining the the two different heel bulbs. The back of the hoof from the hairline down should be solid mass with the heel bulbs built into that mass. Cracks that harbor thrush have a leading edge of infection that is down at the bottom of that crack. As it heals, it heals from the bottom up with that crack getting shallower as it goes. So there is a way to go on that war and the front line is at the bottom of that crack, any crack. I also have a tool box for different methods of fighting thrush as well. In dry conditions, I soak in vinegar/water, borax/water. Always not soaking enough to generally soften the hoof and in your case, always thinking about the sand in that arena. In wet conditions, its No Thrush, which even works for rain rot on skin and go to stalling on shavings for a few hours clean and dry/then medicating and turning out. My cleaning tools are a long handled kitchen brush, tooth brushes and even Q-Tips, in order to get clean down to bottom of any cracks. You can even medicate cotton balls and stuff them into the cracks while out on pasture and have them working for you. When they start to fall out, then you're getting somewhere. The best defense against thrush is air and getting spanking clean and a trim that lets that air in. As for the sand. It has its advantages and disadvantages. Its abrasive and congesting but will toughen. The better surface would be walking on asphalt, so if you have such a driveway, warming up on it for 15 minutes before heading to the arena, would be good. As I advise you, I'm always going to thinking of that sand. I like your trim and you are doing great. Obeying the sole and tweaking often is the way to go, which avoids big changes that can sore. These are nice hooves, with no great pathology. All the parts and pieces are pretty much where they belong and your trim obeys the sole. You are doing fine, so keep doing what you're doing. What I'm going to show you, is to see shape, what it means and why its there and how to see it. Give me some time....I'l be back.
  9. Support for a Scarred Hoof

    Yup, what jubal said, lol! Out of the grass, cleaned up, front shot, heel shot, solar shot, side shot and definitely a shot from the back. His hoof looks like its got a decent trim on there, from what I can tell and it also looks like it healed beautifully.
  10. Haven't been on in years

    I too am having problems at the moment. Walter just came up lame in both fronts and is standing like a laminitic., but moreso, he is lifting his heels off the ground to relieve tension. I have determined so far, that it is his ddfts that have been strained. It's very icy here and even though I have taken measures to avoid it, Murphy's Law rules anyway. A couple of winters ago, it was his sacroilliac that he threw out. That was a long term recovery/treatment of 7 months. I'm braced for the long term in recovery also, with tendons involved. (sigh) I also find it very discouraging to think of a vet being incorrect. The vet is my savior. I want him to be my savior. I've had my vet for 35 years, he is my friend/mentor. But in the sacro-illiac case, his advise caused a 3 month delay in diagnosis. His visit amounted to giving me heck for his heels being too short and a brewing abscess, which they were not and no abscess happened. Poor Wally went with his RH in the air 24/7 for two months while he investigated and was stuck on the abscess idea. I left him and called in a chiro and the healing began. Another time, it was his eye. 2 prescriptions later for eye drops, I left him and went to a homeopathic people doctor and his medication starting healing the second I applied it. Thank goodness eyes are universal! Jubal, if there is any chance of founder from anything, I wouldn't even go there. Depends, if your horse is sensitive, it could be traumatic. If there ever was a time to say a flat no to the vet for something, this would be it for me, no hesitation. It has largely been replaced by the ACTH + glucose + leptin test, that will give you the numbers you need without challenging anything. Right now its just a suspicion, so just hang on for awhile and stay observant, see how the coat sheds in spring. In the meantime, I would do the same things people with Cushings/IR horses do for treatment. I don't want to go there, so I treat mine like they already are. Balance the diet and tighten it down in terms of Iron, sugar and starch. ((notice that I said iron first?) Stay on top of the trim and keep an eye on the hoof and move. Mine are not allowed to just have their hunger, they must earn it, whether it be through exercise or having to walk all over the place to find the hay that I spread far and wide. Their apple-a-day gets thrown a 100' and they are made to go fetch them...anything to make them move and earn. Another thought is that too high protein will overwork the kidneys also.
  11. Haven't been on in years

    Oh, I'm around. Funny how life will catch you up and carry you away. I keep checking in. I look at it, like we are all smarter these days and that's a good thing. I also wish to thank you all for the appreciation, it's the best Christmas present ever! Really it is! There are certainly many peers around and I'm glad that I was able to help with what I can. I've been dissed so many times in my travels, but I don't care. I'm here for the horse. Here, still, I am home. Actually, it seems that a lot of the forums are lean these days, that everyone has turned to Facebook, or something. That they may have found more agreeable niches in a smaller gathering. I believe Equisearch has pulled their forum altogether. The Chronicle is lively and well informed, but they do things differently and think differently, so I've decided to leave them alone, but I do go there to read and sometimes get frustrated. So, since we've created a kind of drop-in here, tell me, what's up with life these days? How are the hooves doing? I've been busy lately, as Grandchildren are being born right, left and center and I find myself struggling to keep up with the "new occasions" that have doubled and am learning to become a responsible Grandparent as well. As for my hooves, lol! We're battling very icy conditions coating the whole hill that is my barn and barnyard. It is too large an area to deal with, so I must avoid it. As long as I've got an escape route, I'm good. Keeping their space enlarged and continuing to move, is the challenge. We've been going for walks (1 mile) down the driveway to stay loose and I've been wishing they made YaxTrax for horses, cause they certainly are a blessing to me. I'm tempted to take mine off and put them on a hoof as an experiment. They're completely stretchy, lol! The hay is grass hay, but is tending to loosen them up somewhat, so I doubled the yeast and things are better. Other than that, we're lazing in the sun and thinking about Missyclare. I have her pic on my start-up page and I don't think I'll ever take her off, no matter how many Grandchildren are born. I'll save the walls for that, lol! Let's see, who else was around then....Ared Horse and Lyra, Cowgirl Up and Tubby, Versace, who was a long story, Flying Stars and Gunner, who I imagine is not so little anymore, J Mock, Lassie Lu, One Grey Horse and Moose, Ricky Sweet Smoke, Smiley, who is still around and very helpful, Rosie, This Is It, and ofcourse, special mention to Hero and Godsgirl, who we tried valiantly to save a horse with cancer and we both went thru a special kind of he**. Life goes on....just trying to make things the best they can be while we're around....
  12. Today I Learned....

    Austrailia has just banned the use of whips in training and racing with harness horses. Norway had banned it earlier, but theirs came down from the government, triggered by welfare legislation. In Australia the order came down from the national racing authority itself. No more, will tired horses be whipped in the name of sport.
  13. Hoof Problems

    Pictures would be great. A shoe won't prevent an abscess and it depends on where that abscess is, that will tell why and how it formed....like overgrown bars, frog out of work, thrush, diet imbalance, trim imbalance, too much alfalfa, IR or Cushings, too much or too little selenium, too much sugar, starch and iron. Some things on the hoof can be weak and let the ground hurt it. Some things can be prominent and meet the ground head on for a double whammy. Somethings are internal and metabolic and they are all related. You need good balanced nutrition to grow a strong hoof. You need to fight thrush because nothing can develop and strengthen when thrush is eating the hoof away at the same time. You need a good balanced trim and maintain it. You need to move to work that trim and develop strength. 4" deep gravel, either pea gravel or crushed limestone...around the water trough, in gateways, run-in, preferred pathways, etc. The thrush will be better managed, the self trimming will be better managed and the development fantastic. When a hoof does its homework on rocks, it becomes rock crushing which means it crushes rocks instead of the other way around. The shoes would have to come off in order to achieve this, but if you did, then you could hang the shoe up above the barn door and smile at it when you pass. Shoes and imbalance and contracted heels, and elongated breakover = thin soles, which is an abscess waiting to happen. Quarters jamming up, is a hoof that is already jammed up by his descending weight, never mind the ground. It's biotin that takes months to show up in new stronger growth coming down from the coronary band. It's copper and zinc without iron, that strengthens the hoof AT the ground. You'll see the effects of copper are a lot faster than biotin. Copper strengthens the wall, the water line and the cross connections that give the hoof its flexible strength and that's what you want on those rocks. Between the copper and the gravel, thrush doesn't have a chance. Copper will also give him his original coat color, never to fade in the sun again. Minerals like California Trace, fed, to make sure they get them. The blocks are mere bonus and will never meet their needs alone. Yes, I do suspect the rocks, but also hooves that can't handle them and yes, they can. I would keep them off the hill until their feet are stronger and abscesses resolved. It doesn't sound like they are missing much out there and if the grass is sparce, then what else is growing? I'd be going for a walk out there. Seed heads are like sugar pills, weeds are higher in sugar, stressed grass is higher in sugar, so are any areas of lush growth. I'd start with the gravel, though and if the sore foot had to be booted for a bit, so be it, let the other three feet get started in the meantime. It is a journey, and best for you to decide when to take it, but you'll never look back. Oh, and as for road work, if you can, head for the middle, where the crown is free of rocks. Asphalt is magic also. At this point, the gravel shoulder would just be more insult. A hoof has to develop its toughness in degrees and stones are graduation. It's then, that you have a rock crushing hoof. Hope this helps....
  14. Interesting.....

    Opinions? Definitely watch the video for full understanding. http://horserunners.com/
  15. Today I Learned.....

    How infection spreads in the bloodstream. It's like white water rafting, only the ride is too wild and the bacteria have specific places to go and can't afford to be simply washed away, so they creep down the side walls, bonding to cells for hold, breaking them and then rebonding again. Like going hand over hand down a ladder. I am reminded of two things. One is because I'm a Trekkie and imagined the Zindi crawling forward on the ceiling and walls of Enterprise, lol! and that this is the same way that a part of hoof growth slides down from the coronary band. What a mimic this bacteria is! Designed just for you.
  16. Interesting.....

    A horse with complex problems and sensitivity because of those problems, I think the boot would definitely help, but its not a therapeutic boot at all. Pads are needed in the boots. This boot is simple protection and not promoting a better foot.
  17. Interesting.....

    Austrian. A high degree of technology behind it. There's nothing that says how the velcro-type pad is attached to the hoof wall. I'm thinking glue and have no doubts of its hold...a good thing, but possibly a bad thing too. I definitely see the area that the pad touches as hoof wall immediately blocked from breathing and replaced with something toxic. I wonder if when the hoof is not balanced or transitioned, that the torque would transfer to those clips, effectively pulling down on the velcro, the pad and the hoof wall. Would it encourage a quarter to fill in and jam up? (it is in the pic and while we're at it, what's with the prominent toe quarter shape? Correct thinking but old school farrier) Would it enhance bad growth from the "jam and splat" mechanism of a medial/lateral imbalance? Yes, it would be hard to stay on top of the trim, especially taking flare off the top. I see the cover getting ripped off out in the field and lost and spending an hour trying to clean out the velcro with a pin anyway, lol. If this doesn't happen, then I imagine the hoof taking the brunt instead. It feels like I've turned the horse out into the field and forgot to take his halter off. I think this would work best on a transitioned/balanced hoof, which I have, but then they are also rock crushing hooves, so I don't need boots. It will be entering Kick Starter soon, so hopefully will be more information, trials and opinions in the future.
  18. I'm At A Loss..

    Cracks don't heal. They have to grow out. The trick is to keep the torque off it, so that it can grow out, rather than tear upward in the opposite direction. Not getting the onus off that crack will keep the crack maintained or getting worse. Every step matters and you can either promote concavity and a better hoof, or promote pathological growth....the barefoot trim is for the horse, the trim under the shoe is for the shoe. Your horse needs a balanced barefoot trim if he's going to go bare anyway. You may have to call in a trimmer, if the farrier cannot do this. It is the crack at the ground that when the hoof rolls over it, puts tension on it all the way up. A bevel takes the crack right off the ground and keeps it quiet, while it grows out...as long as its maintained, or the torque is right back on again. A shoe also takes the crack off the ground, but then its also sitting on the shoe. Without pics, I can't tell what the situation is with his feet, or the work your farrier has done. I see this as a self trimming exercise by the horse, with a bit of Murphy's Law thrown in. If the wall is even with the sole, then its all good. That's exactly where it wants to be. It hasn't torn into soft tissue. He shouldn't be lame, if this is the case. If he's sensitive, I'd put boots on him and keep going. The goal is to get a good trim, then move to work that trim. If he's off of shoes, don't let it slow you down, get comfortable and move, fight thrush and make good use of this time without shoes. You may not need them again. He's older, so the transition will probably be slower and comfort should be more prominent on your sleeve. As for the diet, I'm going to have to research all these products to see what you are feeding in total. I suspect that his system may be fairly junked up. Sorry, but I'll take a look. At 19, the risk for developing Cushings runs higher, so diet should be low in iron, starch and sugar. What he requires in order to meet these iron/sugar/starch demands is a grass hay only diet. Sugar and starch added together to be a strict 10%. Treat him like he already is IR and you won't go there. You don't want to go there. What hay are you feeding? Is he a hard keeper, bad teeth, are you showing? What's his work schedule like? What are the ground conditions like? Cushings and IR related problems affect the white line in the feet. Cracks and broken off shoes are not necessarily related. If his weight is good, and he's not laminitic, then no need for the blood test, or even xrays, I'm thinking. If the crack was bad, the farrier would have done more than slap a shoe on it....I hope....need pics.
  19. Flares On Front Hooves

    I agree with Ozland. If the trim does not balance to the run of her bone, then there will be an argument going on between them. Depending on the type of flare, one of the things I check is lateral/medial balance. These are a few of the situations I have run into: If the flare is evenly around the hoof, then its probably balanced and managed by disengaging it from the ground.....and maintaining it. I have a horse that is long transitioned, but has never lost the nickname of "flarey boy". If there is medial/lateral imbalance going on, then the flare will be more on the outside, but make no mistake, the inside is flared as well, just differently. A higher inside will either force the horse over onto the outside or hurt and have him avoid it to land on the outside. (whatever the situation) The outside in is the brunt of it. The imbalance distorts the shape of the flare and the shape of the foot. Inside high, heel taller and pulled more forward of the frog than the other. Tall/straight, thin, but strong wall on the inside, cleft deeper on the inside frog, and frog also looking like a jet banking on a turn to the left, inside breakover moves to 11 o'clock, instead of 10, while frog rotates away from 12 o'clock, going in the opposite direction...the outside is a long swoosh of extended roundness, but will have concavity and better development because it's being used more, but make no mistake though, the outside bone wing is closer to the ground than the inside This is the argument. It's a set up that promotes a pidgeon-toed placement and once you recognize it, you'll realize that it's quite common. If you put a rock under your own inside foot and walk pidgeon-toed, then you'll get the idea of it. In more extreme cases I get the feeling that the hoof is curling around that high/jamming inside wall...a shape to avoid pain. Maybe it's a simply side-to-side imbalance. Here, in the extreme imbalance, the inside totally dominates so highly, that instead of the force flaring the outside wall, the force comes back to crush inward on the wall. (over tipped) This can happen on either side. Bottom line is that if the trim does not mimic the run of "her" bone, then there will an argument and the flare shape will show it. You can bevel till the cows come home. The balance must be right for her. Then she is free to laugh in the face of it, even if she always tends to be that way. Do get the hooves cleaned up and take pictures? They are worth a thousand words, be able to have new eyes at the barn and a better conversation with the farrier.
  20. Feeding Treats

    An apple a day to keep the vet away and two carrots to supply the required Vit A naturally. Most of it goes in their dinner, but I always approach with something in my hands and they are there to meet me with manners. I'm tossing it up in the air and catching it as I approach, telling them yes, it is an apple, but it also moves, then throw it. I'll roll them down the hill and watch them play plinko or flip it over a stall wall as I pass by. Never from the hand. The reason comes from treating my horses like they already are IR, because I'm not going there, so they must earn what goes in their mouth, even the treats. Ofcourse, having chased down the apple, they come back to my hand. I then have trained them by cupping both hands over their mouth and holding for a sec and saying all gone, and they believe me. Getting everybody together to treat the same would be a huge undertaking. On the other side, you could just play the game at the time and keep them busy. Show him what's in your pockets and turn them inside out. Go with it. Just keep saying, "its not my horse", lol!
  21. Runny Nose

    I've seen that slow feeders work better than "on the ground" for controlling dust. I've also used a plastic garden plant waterer to sprinkle on the hay nicely and will do a couple passes on the stall, if needed. Dusty arena? I would try this first, before looking to boost the immune system. Vitamins A and E are involved and on a hay only diet, the horse should get 10,000IU's and 1000IU's of each respectively. Otherwise, the horse manufactures his own vitamins and they are not needed for maintenance situations. Vitamin C is used only for sickness and has a short course, like Bute, because if you innundate a nutrient that is already manufactured by the horse, this ability will be lost to the horse over time. Trace minerals also create a healthy resilience as well. Copper and Zinc are star players for feet and for never-to-bleach again true coat color. Flax is another one that fights inflammation body wide and I've seen it clear up a horse's eyes. But since this is just a runny nose, I'd go after the dust in his environment and have faith. Hope this helps...
  22. Sorry, I haven't been totally honest. Neither product works for me hands down. Its adding iron, sugar and starch, which are all bad for Cushings, especially at an elderly age. There's enough iron in the hay already. There is even iron on the hay already from the machinery that produced it. It is 10X more bioavailable to the horse in water. It's everywhere! When storage capacity for iron has been reached, it goes running through the blood like rust, attaches to cells and hangs around for a week until the cell dies and is thrown out. It plugs up the intake valves and forces copper and zinc to pass on making them deficient in the face of it. Good hay at 400pm daily intake and these products are going to boost it to 600ppm. If the hay test comes in at 600ppm, then you're bumping it up to 800ppm. Means you have to add more zinc and copper to fight high iron, just from feeding this product. Then there's the added sugar and starch. No vitamin A, no vitamin C, no vitamin E in these products at all. Very important on a hay only diet. Incomplete, imbalanced and taxing to an elderly horse. If you do have a Cushingoid horse and if symptoms were showing, the first thing I'd do is get a hay test and balance properly. I would also leave the neighbourhood store and go online to Uckele and see what they've got. Dr. Kellon is at the helm there and she's on the leading edge of research on this problem. Reading their labels is like a breath of fresh air, cause with her help....they "get it".
  23. Let's have a look at the labels, shall we? Both of them have the same protein and lysine. Safe Choice has higher methionine and threonine, which is good. Good for feet too. Crude fat is at 10% in one and 8% in the Safe Choice. Here is where I really start to lean towards Safe Choice, because 8% is lower than 10%, I wish it was at 5%. Fat is just fat, no nutritional value whatsoever, not required by the horse and if not being earned promotes fatty pads (a storage of cytokines that love to react and inflame) What you don't see, is the fat accumulating around the organs. Safe Choice has a reversed Omega balance that is inflammatory. Major minerals: calcium is higher in the Triple Crown and its balance with phosphorus is high and low on the magnesium. Therefore, it does not follow the strict protocol of cal/phos at 1.5:1 to offset bone problems. Just as important to a senior horse as it is a growing one. Kinda like life coming full circle. Magnesium has over 300 jobs to do in the body and one of them is the firing of cells, and that's a horse's nervousness level. It should be cal/mag: 2:1, not almost 4:1 in the TC. That makes magnesium deficient in the face of high calcium. I would think about magnesium supplement with this feed. With the Safe Choice, the calcium is a bit lower, but the balance is right on with phosphorus at 1.46:1........... and there is no magnesium in the Safe Choice at all. Been forgotten, which I often see. So, definitely supplementing magnesium with this feed. As for the trace minerals, the TC balance is good between iron/copper/zinc/manganese. I can see that balance because the iron is listed. Not so on the SafeChoice, which means they are hiding it and it will take a phone call to eek it out of them. At any rate, I like the higher numbers on the copper and zinc in the TC and hoping that the hay will further these numbers to finish the job of needs met on these two. (needs must be met first, before balancing) Selenium is low, but the rest is probably in the hay. Won't know without a hay test, but too high is also bad, so keep an eye out for any added Se in other products fed. And now we get down to the gist of it, the sugar and starch. Everyone thinks sugar is bad, but 50% of it goes to glucose, starch on the other hand, is 100%. Sugar plus starch should not go over 10% in the horse's total daily diet. This is tight rule for IR/Cushings and since we don't want to go there, I think its a good rule for everyone to obey, whether sensitive or not. The NSC in the TC is really close at 11.7%. Another target by this feed hit dead on. The starch and sugar in the Safe Choice comes to 20% Whoa! And 16% of that is starch! An elderly horse is at a much higher risk for Cushings and this stuff is going to feed it to him for sure, I'm thinking. The TC Senior wins hands down. The high NSC in the Safe Choice clinches it. The TC Senior hit two targets dead on, didn't forget the magnesium and had the guts to show the iron, lol! Hope this helps.....
  24. Boggles The Mind....

    Links 3 and 4 wouldn't come up, so I didn't get any satisfaction in your trim (which I know I would!) so I got robbed of your before and after, but I think its my stupid internet, cause it was trying...like forever, lol! Best wishes on your challenges of picking up after this farrier. I'm sure the horses thank you! Facing such challenges and being able to correct and make the horse more comfortable sure gives you a warm and fuzzy feeling inside for the good you've done. I don't think I've felt such satisfaction from any job I've had in my life like this one and I think you'd agree whole heartedly! If this farrier was lazy, it was in the caring department and I think the rest was ignorance. Many people trust in their farrier and let him do his thing freely. In return, the farrier sees lack of hoof care and figures the owner doesn't care either....until the horse goes lame. (not that this horse hasn't been cared for) So because of this trust in the farrier, the owner remains ignorant of the hoof as well. I had a farrier...once that did the opposite for the same reason. He reamed the hoof out all down to waxy sole and sored my horses for 3 weeks. When asked why, he said that he does it in defense of the hoof because owners don't do their part. All that is changing now, as people are becoming much more informed about feet.....but still......and that's what you are doing, Chocomare, taking the knowledge and awareness out to the barn...to the owners and empowering them to advocate for their horse and question things intelligently. This is an important area of trimming and still a challenge. The trimmer is only there for an hour, the rest of the time, its the owner's homework and it must be done. Heidi, on this horse, yes the length has contributed to the flare forward. If you draw an imaginary line down the middle of the cannon to the ground, that's where the heel should be landing. The shoe has held the wall, while the torque has migrated the hoof forward anyway, in a symmetrical/lineal fashion. The torque on the excess toe pulls everything behind it forward, bars, frogs, heels. When the heels get forward enough to be landing on the back of the heel pillars, instead of facing the ground, the landing smushes the heel forward to add a double whammy to the forward direction. This hoof's heels have been held somewhat by the shoe, from being smushed forward, but has gone higher, because it had no where else to go. Add the fact that this is a hoof that loves to hold onto thrush, has atrophied the frog and contracted the heels, weakened the digital cushion. Thrush, which can be worse at the back of the foot, can cause a horse to avoid the heel, letting it grow longer from lack of use as well. Its not just the trim, but the discomfort from it that speaks. The area that concerns me more is inbetween the toe and heel in the quarter area, which is also long, no arch, no mechanism, just jamming upwards....look up, see the arched coronary band that is evidence. If I had this foot on, for me, it would be like ouch on landing thrushy heels and right on forward to a bigger ouch thru the quarters. When everything hurts on the back half of the foot, that's where you get the toe first landing that lets the heels grow longer. You can either get rid of pathology with every step thereafter, or you can perpetuate it. One way or the other, trimmer's choice. This farrier has been performing the latter. Anyway, when you look at this kind of hoof, think flare forward has taken the hoof out from under the descending weight of the horse, heels and toes and left the heel bulbs hanging. Nothing is backwards but the growth coming out of the coronary band has been all forward. Think of the direction growing/pulling from out of the band....forward. This pic is evidence that a mere shoe will not answer to the descending weight of the horse and the trim imbalance will torque on the hoof anyway and that even though the shoe slows the blood and feelings of discomfort, its still very much there to the horse, just look up to the soft tissue above the hoof, the band, the knees, the shoulder, the back, even to the poll. The path of pathology created by discomfort. It's really a path of pain and sometimes a chiro is needed to break it and free up the mechanisms that are to go with a more balanced hoof. After time, this path can become locked in and chronic. By getting rid of pain and replacing it with confidence, the horse learns to walk properly again.
  25. Just Great! Need To Take Sam To The Vet.

    My vet once told me that it is the older vaccines like rabies and tetnus that can cause a 24 hour temperature rise afterwards. The fever can affect the tightness of the white line as well. I was focused on the feet at the time and sure enough, a week later the white line loosened and took 3 weeks to settle down. If I hadn't been on top of the trim, it would have taken longer, so I make sure I am on top of the trim before vaccines every year. I do believe you were seeing that temperature rise in action. The best thing to do is to take the horse's temps throughout the whole scenario and see for yourself how the horse is reacting. Then you would know.