missyclare

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Posts posted by missyclare


  1. Nice job! As long as you obey the sole, you won't go wrong. The sole will start to smooth out and show more clearly, the run of it. It will recede and leave wall standing above it. Know that you want to be even with the sole, no matter what its doing. Right now, some sole runs in a tight ridge of shape inside the wall. Obey that. Stay even, don't get below. The bevel will disengage it, even if the wall is above live sole. Remember to leave the inside half of the wall facing the ground and only the outside half taken away in bevel along the sides. This disengages, but still leaves support. You'll find that what was jammed up, litterally was jammed up into the foot. Just like when flare is released from the toe, it sloughs down and puddles at the ground line, so can the quarters be released and come down leaving wall standing above live sole again at the quarters, even minutes after you trimmed it. That will settle down as well. Just keep obeying the sole. Nice job. The hinds, are good. Need some time to show you again what they want by new growth. Same with the fronts. Check every couple of days and just tweak, then lengthen it out to a week, then two between tweaks. Keep up with the thrush treatment. That frog must be fit to do its job as the heels come down and the more engaged it becomes. This could be a source of his soreness. Its a nice job and things are better. Just obey the sole and go with it to stay on top of it and patience to wait for the sole to further develop and tell you what it wants and keep taking pics, cause it will show you the story of improvement as you go.

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/13991392614" title="LF Tweak by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2906/13991392614_088c808886_o.jpg" width="576" height="1024" alt="LF Tweak"></a>


  2. Simply put, when the toe gets long, (not out there, but long) it sets the nose of P3 up higher than the back. Normally, the angle of P3 should not be exactly ground parallel, but 3-8 degrees higher than ground paralllel at the back of the bone. Is found on a horse with a long toe and pulled forward/crushed heels. It causes the bone to be at a negative palmer angle at peak loading. Very hard on the tendons.


  3. Good! I'm glad it makes sense. It's gotta make sense.

    You should always treat for thrush, The thrush buster will help, but I consider it a more moderate treatment than just daily maintenance. 90% of the battle is getting clean and other tools are needed on a daily basis. The frogs surface will either tighten down or peel off. It it wants to peel, and you have to leave it there until it sheds itself when ready, otherwise, soft new frog is going exposed to the ground suddenly and sore the horse. But that doesn't mean you can't scrub it well, pare the tatters and overhangs, even clean up under it where already detached with Q-tip with Dawn Detergent solution on it. You want to see a clean view of the groove, all the way around. Either the frog is hanging over it, or bar has pushed into and filled in the groove. Past this point as it continues, it carries on to bridge under the frog, a nasty jam up into the corium (not yours), just saying. Dawn dish detergent, a long armed kitchen scrub brush, Toothbrushes, Q-Tips...get clean. I'd treat with Thrush Buster 2x/week. Daily clean out and spray with straight vinegar. Soaking is good, but enough if the weather is wet already, go to No Thrush. Minerals fed to make sure they are eaten. The copper and zinc will strengthen the connective tissue, nourish and protect waxes and oils, tighten up the bonds of the hoof and spit thrush out in the process.

    THE REARS

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/13918201694" title="RR Heel Trim by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7088/13918201694_b3b7af3e6a.jpg" width="430" height="500" alt="RR Heel Trim"></a>

    This is the RR with the heel height maintained, just a soft pull back on them to flatten their surfaces to ground. The right one is just a tad higher. The sole line show much quarters to be reduced and the toe is coming down 1/8" more. This is happening on both feet. Leave the heels, just shape them and follow the sole to lower the toe. This will give the hoof a more upright approach to the ground, avoid a negative palmer angle which these feet are close to and is a real tendon puller. The squiggly white lines are pounded lines. The long toe is putting the descending weight down hard on the heels and jamming on up the back of the hoof. The hoof needs to be more upright relieve the heels. Otherwise, the balance is good on both, just growth brought back down to live sole to correct.

    The two thin white line going across the hoof....the bottom one is the sole balance. The top one is the wall balance above the sole and the growth has changed the balance, so a good reason to stay on top of the trim.

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/13917830523" title="RH Side by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7299/13917830523_571aa35ba0.jpg" width="500" height="421" alt="RH Side"></a>

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/13918204584" title="RH Solar 1 by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7157/13918204584_084e43b79e.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="RH Solar 1"></a>

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/13918201694" title="RR Heel Trim by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7088/13918201694_b3b7af3e6a.jpg" width="430" height="500" alt="RR Heel Trim"></a>

    LEFT REAR

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/13918213714" title="LR Heel 333 by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7317/13918213714_bb4ea8e864.jpg" width="378" height="500" alt="LR Heel 333"></a>

    Hope this helps.....


  4. I agree with the thrush care....always good advice. Nothing can develop and strengthen on a hoof, if its being eaten away at the same time. The central sulcis should be only a mere thumbprint impression on top of the frog, and certainly not a crack running up the back of the heel bulbs to the hairline. Should be a solid area with no definition of right or left heel bulb, so there is some healing to do.

    If its the shape of the heel bulbs that you're looking at, its because of old history on that toe, pulling forward, pulling the heels forward, making them low and leaving the heel bulbs to replace the heels. The descending weight of the horse has squished them out the back of the foot and given them that pointy shape. This will correct as the heels come down and back. You'll see marks on the heel bulbs where they have hit the ground, which they can't take, cause they're not meant to hit the ground.

    RIGHT FRONT

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/13883844801" title="RF Heel 222 by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3750/13883844801_1262fb018c.jpg" width="500" height="490" alt="RF Heel 222"></a>

    There is a turn in the run of bone with this leg and the trim lines are balanced with the live sole plane. Note how the sole has pulled up on the left quarter, lying. See the perfect sunset on the horizon (heel balance line) Note that my heel balance line is one flat line. Now look at the contour on the existing wall height. Up and on up, right from the inner heel point. Not flat like my line. Even to each other, flat, square and surface flat to ground. When you look at the existing, know the curl that you see. Reverse the rasp in one hand, dangle the hoof loosely in the other and pull back and out towards 7 o'clock on the left side and to 4 o'clock on your right side. Will those surfaces in an outward/flat to ground plane as you bring them down to the designated/balanced level. Do the heels first, get them right, then follow the sole around, doing the thumb test. (Close your eyes and feel by running your thumb up off the sole, across the wall and off. There should be no difference in their heights. I don't care how much separated white line is between them, get them even and flat to ground.) Then you know your leading edge and bevel. You won't have to bevel so strongly again, nor will you have to take so much from the top again either, but you've been allowed to set things straight at the toe and take a leap backward on it, thanks to a stretched white line.

    I once did this very bevel, only on the outside of it was 3" of stretched white line. The horse took two steps away from the trim area, stopped, threw her head up, got a wild look in her eye and mucus started pouring out her nose. It took a whole box of kleenex to clean her up. The swelling immediately went down under her right eye above the nostril that drained. Now understand the extent of what discomfort can be...body wide...every system in there is affected. I'm told that this was the immune system reacting.

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/13883848572" title="RF Solar by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3747/13883848572_d009665281.jpg" width="395" height="500" alt="RF Solar"></a>

    There's the leading edge of the bevel. It leaves the inner basement membrane intact next to the sole and follows until at 10 and 2, it has faded out to the inner wall, then only taking the outer half of the wall away on back to the front of the heel platforms. You can print these out and take them with you and even draw the line on the hoof with a marker, if needed. See the solid red of hoof removed from the top. Note that what remains, is new wall space that is even all the way around with the leading edge of the bevel. If you can achieve this, it will be great progress at the toe! Think of that bevel line as your new hoof shape, now compare it to the existing. Nice.

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/13907575663" title="RF Side by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7108/13907575663_d69e2b1042.jpg" width="500" height="434" alt="RF Side"></a>

    What you need to take from the top this trim in blue, the other lines being the overall goal. Look back at the silhouette of the wall height that exists in the heel shot.. Like huge wings of height on both sides of the toe. The toe is lower. Not good for the toe. But see the jam up the hoof this has caused in this side shot, of where the band should be and what its doing...getting jammed up by quarters that need to be cleared. Follow that sole and stay even with it, especially on the sides.

    See that dent above the bubble? That's torque going up the wall, found to increase exponentially as it does, and took a nose dive into the hoof right there. It didn't stop there, though, carried on up the front of the cannons to smash into the knee caps. Toe gets in the way, horse can't have a heel first landing and chronic pain to the knees follows. I can personally attest to that. Another thought towards his discomfort.

    Now we graduate up to the hinds and another important understanding of what's going on with them. Give me time...

    Comparing new pics to old, you've got some good growth happening here...something to be aware of when trying to stay on top of things. Its still a good thing.

    Does this make sense? Do you have any questions?


  5. This is the RR Solar to show you how to place the bevel with a stretched white line, which all the hooves are.

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/13872336525" title="RH Solar 1 by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7033/13872336525_e66f1298fb.jpg" width="281" height="500" alt="RH Solar 1"></a>

    The black lines going around the hoof are the sole line and inner edge of the wall. Inbetween, is the white line. Think of it as two strips of velcro. Each strip has a nylon backing holding the hooks. The two pink lines are called the basement membranes (the two nylon backings) The inner one nourishes and is important. The outer one, has pulled away, has become useless, except to keep the pull and torque on the hoof by still being way out there. The goal is to bring the toe back and leaving the inner basement membrane still intact, but getting the torque off the remaining outside one. The outside one becomes disengaged because it has become part of the bevel. The red line is the leading edge of that bevel. Everything outside of that red line is gone into a 45 degree angle and off the ground.

    If I have to bring a toe back, I'd rather see a stretched white line, which allows this trim to greatly take the toe back in one trim. When its not, you're in a tighter trimming box on the issue. All your hooves have to deal with this at the toe to some extent. This foot's balance is not bad, as the white line is stretched pretty evenly around the hoof, except for the toe. Ok, so the leading edge of the bevel, (the red line) leaves the basement membrane intact in front of the sole and flows back out to only take the outer half of the wall on the sides. Everything outside of that line is bevelled 45 on out of there.

    LEFT FRONT

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/13872656944" title="LF Heel 1 by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3761/13872656944_b1b1eba474.jpg" width="500" height="476" alt="LF Heel 1"></a>

    This is the medial/lateral balance of the LF. I think it pretty much speaks for itself. The red lines are existing and white lines are balance and where this hoof wants to be. Where it looks like I've gone below the sole line on the right side, is because the torque has pulled up the sole along with that heel and is lying. If you look at this pic without lines, you'll see the truth and why I placed it there. The center line is showing the run of bone from the heel bulbs to 12 o'clock at the toe. The heel balance should be perpendicular to that line and the sole line should look like the perfect sunset on the horizon. The heel line also shows how much the heel needs to come down and that the right heel needs to come down moreso. Note what the existing balance has done to the run of the frog (red line)

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/13872660224" title="LF Heel 1A by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3796/13872660224_dc013a5ec2.jpg" width="500" height="476" alt="LF Heel 1A"></a>

    This is the same picture as above, but showing the finished trim and what the hoof should look like.

    <a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/13873608144" title="LF Side by missyclare, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3723/13873608144_4e33c387b9.jpg" width="500" height="384" alt="LF Side"></a>

    This is the goal when done transitioning.

    I'll be back....


  6. Get the hooves really clean. Then we have a strict learning curve happening. You need to understand what I'm seeing and go out there and see it for yourself and it needs to be dealt with. Balance must be restored. Except for one lumpy bar, the pain on soft tissue is his problem..going up the leg and I feel, is the source of his discomfort in all feet/body. The medial/lateral imbalance is severe enough that the hooves have turned in their tracks.. The sole is also built up with callous, pulled up on the high side and lying. Regardless of the run of bone, these hooves are not happy. Balance was not achieved with the last trim. We need to tend to business.


  7. First Horse...what's his name?

    The trim looks good according to the sole. I think of putting patience on my sleeve and putting more shape into it, as form is function and they are looking pretty blocky and against functioning. Heels are long and some balance issues (maybe) There is hope in the patience because the hoof has transitioned to a tighter angle halfway down the hoof, so its coming along. The separation your are seeing is the sole receding back to the proper breakover, leaving the old trim out where it is, so the bevel needs to be renewed to ensure that the toe is disengaged and coming back with it. Your tweaking should ensure that it continues to do so.

    What I need is better heel shots. Start with the first horse, cause I'm going to take it one horse at a time. I cannot tell how the bones run in these feet. When you take the heel shot, turn the camera lengthwise, pick up the hoof and hang it by the fetlock, then lean forward to catch from enough solar surface to see where the frog is running to the toe and also including the heel bulbs and back to above the pastern, as much as you can get. These are the shots that I can really see and show you. Don't worry about getting close up, Just get centered and ignore the background. I can fix background, just can't fix fuzzy from being to close. Watch your shadows.

    Just focus on the first horse for now and those heel shots and we'll worry about the next horse when I get done this one, so you won't be going out and trying to clean everyone up at once. :smilie:


  8. <p>Sounds like the hoof growth is picking up with springtime. A barefoot trim alone does not make for a rock crushing hoof....development does. There are horsekeeping changes that also support a healthy foot, namely nutrition and movement/conditioning, so its not just the trim. </p>

    <p>I strongly suggest Pete Ramey's "Making Hoof Care Work for You."  An excellent understanding about how the hoof works. The book is cheap, but is worth a million to me. I carried it under my arm for a week so I wouldn't misplace it and read it 5x before I started. The beauty of this book is that it teaches you how to see a hoof and what's going on with it and why and letting the horse dictate, instead of the trimmer, you know what to do to fix it and how far you can go to fix in one trim or that more trims are needed. This book teaches you how to read your horse's palms, to know how he is using his hoof and why. It teaches you a mind set for an approach that is not to please the eye, but to listen to the horse and do as you are told. The horse is the one who is wearing this hoof with every step and he's the boss. My trims answer to the horse and only the horse. Every horse is different, every hoof is different....has its own story to tell. You need to learn to understand it, to know what you are seeing and what the horse needs by listening, not dictating. Your mindset when approaching a horse in hand is very important. The first time I prepared to trim a horse, I picked up the hoof, looked some, threw the rasp 20' away from me, so that I wouldn't be tempted and just kept looking, until I got the whole story straight in my head. The book teaches you to recognize the pathology and how to trim for it and what not to trim and why. You'll never sore a horse this way. It is an excellent book on approach and understanding. Then head to his website after the book, so you can understand that. Then, 15          years later, I got Care and Rehab of the Equine Foot, which Pete put out with others. It cost $200, weighs 10lbs. and 2 years later, I'm still digesting it and am on its 3rd reading. Many times, I've seen beginners get excited by picking up the hoof and recognizing the pathology that they learned from a book and advice to fix it....all correct, but I'm thinking, sorry, you just lamed the horse, you didn't listen to the hoof....you dictated. Patience always on your sleeve.</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>When Smilie sees this, she will come in with some handy links to help you in your quest. As for me, show me the hoof. Let me read his palms for you and explain what's going on and why. Post pics according to the sticky at the top and it will help you understand your own horse's hooves.</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>A balanced trim is a trim that mimics the bone...the trim is in balance with the bone. For that, you need to know where the bone is. The hinds on a horse are usually the stronger/better developed/more resilient hooves. If arthritis is causing pain that makes his stance change, it will change the form of the hoof because the hoof will always be what the horse needs it to be.(growth that supports this changed stance) As long as there is pain, it will continue. Must go after the pain to break the cycle and trim the foot to balance again to proper stance...to free him up, and encourage him to flow forward and work out the stiffness. There is no cure for arthritis, but you can stop the inflammation and greatly minimize further damage simply by achieving balance. It must be achieved immediately on a foundering horse and in the face of arthritis?..as quickly as the tendons and hoof will let you..or the inflammation will persist...the pathology will persist. It's the balanced trim and the inflammation-fighting supplement combination that started raising my eyebrows with my 30 year old. So I can see why you're disappointed when you lift a hoof, see what you see 3 weeks in and would like to stay on top of it.</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>What I also strongly suggest is that you talk to your farrier about maintaining the trim between his visits. Then you have him showing you what to do with hoof in hand and there is no better way than that. I didn't have that. Plus, he will be in partnership with you on hoof care instead of coming back, seeing that someone else had been messing with the horse and getting upset. Important to work with him, rather than against him or behind his back, so to speak.</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>If you post pics, I will take the time to help show you what you are looking at....visually. Hope this helps and will help.</p>


  9. The first example is a not just an underrun heel, but a negative palmer angle happening. This one is not going to be a quick fix. I consider this an advanced pathology. The pull on tendons and ligaments is forefront in my mind. Balance must be found, gradually, but with determination before further damage is done. The bubbled out wall at the toe is sign that this neg. palmer angle has pulled P3 straight back from the front wall by tendon pull.....consider it totally unattached laminae in that bubble and just how much attachment is left. The rasping away at the bubble from the top would not be in the the horse's interest and dubbing it at the toe only a hopeful thinned/weakened anchor of what's to come, plus a strict bevel placement is going to set him back on what heels? So, a strict bevel would not be one of my priorities either. It's going to be balance and disengaging the torque without thinning the structure he has left to stand on, to ease up on the tendons and gradually relocate that hoof under his descending weight where its supposed to be. Everything falls into place as I go...always patience. So, yes, I would rasp thru the sole at the toe, with all confidence of knowing where the bone is and what lies between and reading/obeying the sole along the way. I rehabbed a horse much worse than this. In so much pain....vet not coming for 5 days to xray, started without him. The stringhalt stopped in the first half hour, by day 3, the swaying stopped and the xrays confirmed a ground parallel P3 on day 5. But make no mistake, tender care was needed to heal the soft tissue for the next 6 months, including teeth, weight gain, abscesses uncovered and ulcers...a serious pathology indeed.

    I understand the wear, and see it in the quarter horse and why he would be lame if you took those shoes off. If he's tender, then I wonder if all the aspects of a successful barefoot had been done, like development, thrush care, nutrition, staying on top of the trim and having the horse living on the same ground he works on. With a truly developed and balanced hoof, its strong enough to crush rocks, not the other way around and the wear affects phenomenal growth to compensate...good growth from good balanced use, not pathological growth that perpetuates itself because its locked in. A trim alone, does not make a barefoot horse. All these things must be in place for success.


  10. I'm giving this tool some serious thought right now. My arm strength hasn't been the same since Hero. It would be nice to be able to do more than 2 feet at one sitting.

    I agree with you Smilie on the video. Wouldn't touch the sole that much and I feel he didn't begin to finish the trim on that hoof. I have a feeling that I'd be going back to the rasp to do the bevel. Maybe you have to change from the chainsaw disc to the Power Rasp to finish...so how easy is it to change the heads, or am I just going to reach for the rasp anyway?

    You can move the guard, 9-23 degrees, but don't remove it entirely for safety's sake. I get that, but I've got a question into them asking whether a left handed person could use this. I can use both hands on the rasp, but for this, I'd want it in my left hand. Price is steep.


  11. Thank you for that, CVM. :smilie:

    I don't have the vet notes on that incident as it was many years ago. Could it be possible that he gave her an anabolic steroid as CVM has defined? The vet was a keeper and Missyclare used to be his horse. He was dropping in unannounced every day to check on her. There was no need to call him. She was pretty down in the dumps. Two days after the shot, she picked up and the infection started coming out like boils on her cannon bones.

    As far as I know, there was no reaction to the antibiotics. They were in place and the steroid injection was given around day 5/6.


  12. I've never had this procedure done to mine and know little about it, but suspect that that many others have. So, I thought I'd post this.....

    http://www.thehorse.com/articles/33532/study-lower-corticosteroid-doses-might-be-beneficial?utm_source=Newsletter&utm_medium=lameness&utm_campaign=03-19-2014

    (It would be nice to see the actual study, where the dosages were stated etc...this is just a report of that study.)

    A lot of other questions pop up for me as well....

    What exactly is a corticosteroid and what does it do? (I'd also like to understand it at a cellular level, cause I want to know why it causes cell death and what that means to the horse)

    Is it a common procedure? Expensive?

    Is it a long term treatment and must it come to an end in the long run?

    What are the risks of the procedure?

    Side effects vs. benefits?

    The only experience I had was Missyclare, who had a bad case of Salmonella as a filly and the shot was to pick her up and it certainly did and things started turning around. She's 30 this year. Not a joint injection, but the same drug? Is there a family of corticosteroids?

    I've always thought "less is best", maybe in this case, its true. :smilie:


  13. Well, that's excellent news, that there are no navicular changes. When you first got her, what the farrier told you, is correct and if he is the one still trimming her, he didn't accomplish it either. Her toe is back to almost to where it belongs. The sole is still receding on that one, but the heels have not been brought back and down and what's really screaming at me in terms of pain and pointing toe is the excessive bars. The pulled forward heel has her walking on the back of her heels and driving them forward into the front of the foot.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/92429952@N03/12402827424/

    The sole from the red-lined bars forward is false sole and is being held in by the bars and wall height. Look at the bars outlined in red. See how high they are coming up out of the groove? Now stand on that and jam it up into the heart of the hoof. There's your pain. The black line shows how high and how long the bars should be, and how they should come back and also the shape that they should be. The green is the existing heel length. The blue is the separation being caused by the wall being longer than the sole and the torque has compromised the laminar, shown by the blue. Imagine bending your finger nail back and walking on it....that's what flare feels like...more pain.

    The sole needs to be even with the wall, then the false sole and frog will continue to recede. The stretched white line will also tighten up. Work the heel down and back slowly and take the bars right down with them. They should merge out of the sole halfway back of the frog and ramp straight up to meet the heel platforms dead on and their surfaces should face the ground, just the like top of the heel pillars that they attach to. Imagine again, that pounding going straight down the height of that bar wall and into the corium. Now look at the round callous in between them on the frog. Right above the navicular bone. Looks like its trying to protect itself. It's the height of those bar walls on each side that's doing it.

    If you have no changes shown on the xrays, then leave that diagnosis and get the foot balanced. Lose those bars and give the hoof a chance to heal. Always fight thrush and boot if needed, but move and develop a better back of the foot that is stronger. A proper trim would be such an immediate relief to this horse. Develop those feet and when it comes time to shoe again, see if you even need to wedge, which is not the answer to good balance. Trim towards stronger frog and shorter heels and walk away from this. The fact that you are wedging and the heels long/forward the way they are now, is perpetuating your problems of lameness. Hope this helps.


  14. Back in the day.... :smilie:, when Strausser rose briefly to fame, she garnered attention because she was saving foundered horses and recovering them. When people wanted their horses saved, but kept on the farm, it was realized just how much pain it caused to do it all at once. Technically, the way things should be with this trim, is correct and I've benefited from extensive research on the site. I will always remain a Pete Ramey fan and thank him for teaching me how to obey the sole I hear that she got booed at a clinic and people in England are still sensitive about her today. We do need to appreciate that she revived the barefoot trim and although a little rough at start, things are much better for horses everywhere now as we grow to do things better.


  15. I dunno. I'm not getting much information about the shoe. I didn't come away with anything much that I really wanted to know in hopes of answering your question. The article got weirder, going back and forth between obscure medical and emotional. It wasn't clear reading and the English wasn't quite right. It looks like we have picked it up over here, but where did it originate? Still no explanation on the shoe, method of application, how it works. They sure claim a long list of pathologies it can correct. Guess the site is so new... There's only one testimonial on there, and they claim that they're rolling in enough to cause excitement, so where are they? Nothing on YouTube. They also mention a special trim. I hope that it is a physiologically balancing trim for that hoof and nothing else. I find myself on the lookout for any kind of force applied. What I imagine is a captivation of hoof wall form by the shoe itself, ( including mechanism) with an added force upward thru the sole that says, here, comply with this as well. I know that if you have a flat footed horse, you don't go putting a dome pad in his boot. What did your farrier tell you about it?


  16. I strongly advise Pete Ramey's book " Making Natural Hoof Care Work for You." I would read this first, before continuing on to his website. He will teach you how to read the hoof, obey the sole and know what the horse wants and what he doesn't want. You don't pick up a rasp and do what you need or have learned to do, you listen and do what you are told, so you have to learn to listen. This is the horse's foot, he has to wear it/feel it and he's the boss. I would get this book well digested and leave the rasp away for now, call in a farrier and get the feet balanced and pick his/her brain. The best way is to learn how to maintain the trim he's established in between his visits until you are good to go on your own. So you need the farrier to get you off to a good start and to watch over you for awhile. The book digested to help make that conversation with farrier much more meaningful. Also research trimming mules as well, different than horses and best if a professional does see him, not only to show you that difference, but have a professional on hand to deal with that excess growth properly/immediately. You can also post pictures here, according to the sticky at the top and we will help to guide you.


  17. Missyclare used to be an easy keeper, but age has turned that around. I have changed things this winter and she's doing well. She gets a 1/2lb of beet pulp shreds for more fiber, soaked and rinsed, with the same amount of oats, 1/8th cup of Black Diamond yeast, Biotic 8, 1tsp. of iodized salt, Move Ease for inflammation, Lysine 10g/day that sees that protein gets metabolized, 4oz. of flax seed, the ONLY fat she needs and trace minerals with no added iron. As for hay, which has the monumental amount of all nutrients and is 3/4's of her daily intake, fed 24/7 in a slow feeder would regulate her weight, avoid ulcers by continuous feeding and there would little waste. The very first answer to putting weight on a horse is more hay. I just started the beet pulp a week ago, because the weather is at -40 and nobody can move because of glare ice and I just thought she could look better. She's wearing a blanket most times, but when I pull it off, its the best time to get the truth, as she has a full hair coat. You know how aged horses get that shelf-like formation across the top of their rib cage? She was starting to get it and since the beet pulp, its going away and I swear the depressions over her eyes have filled out a bit as well. the only thing new at this point is the beet pulp. Vitamin E is the only one you have to worry about. Horses manufacture their own vitamins, have faith in that. If you supplement something that the horse already provides for himself, you weaken and eliminate this ability and the horse then becomes dependent on the supplement. Same with high fat. It replaces the primary glucose derived energy, you won't win any barrel races on it and when its depleted the glucose system is no longer available to pick up the slack + horses do not require fat, its just fat and goes on the body as fat. What you don't see is the fat accumulating around the organs. Its the flax that has the fat a horse requires. As long as hay is under a year old and has not lost its green, the A is good in it. A horse requires 2IU/lb. of body weight of Vitamin E/day, so 400IU Vit. E gelcap people vitamins added up to meet the need. (4/day if its natural E, 5/day if its synthetic for a 1000lb.horse). Crucial, the E is gone in hay once its processed and E is about the Immune system, among others.

    .

    When you know a few things, it sure makes it simpler and cheaper to do so much better. I don't feed Healthy Edge because its high fat, there is not enough lysine in it to get the protein in it get metabolized efficiently, (the lysine is more likely already met and balanced with the protein in the hay, so adding this supplement just unbalanced it.) 10g of Lysine should be added instead to ensure the protein already delivered is being efficiently absorbed. There is no Magnesium at all and should be balanced with calcium, so there's a big hole. There is no value for iron, which tells me its amount will overwhelm the copper and zinc and delete their values, so cross those two important ones off the list. To me, all this bag does is mess with the good diet I've already established.

    Alfalfa cubes are great for adding more protein. Rice bran will work, but its very high in sugar. In Missyclare's case, at 28, she's already at risk for Cushings, so I won't go there and neither will I go there for my younger horses. Although she doesn't need it, I feed 2 carrots/day to meet her needs for Vitamin A naturally and an apple a day will keep the vet away. Once the grass gets established and the bloom comes back on, I will cut down and eliminate it all, except for a handful of oats to deliver the salt, the probiotics and the minerals. Keep in mind that Missyclare is a retiree and deemed "at maintenance" and it will be a different story to meet a horse's needs for his workload. Seeing a nutritionist (that's not selling anything) will help with that, along with more information tidbits like this. Insight can be very helpful. Hope this helps...


  18. I have the same trouble with Missyclare. I don't use a hoof jack with her, but sit down and put her foot on my lap, or hold it low. We have a 30 second dance going on that is fine by me. With Hero, it was 10 seconds for a long time. Putting a thick rubber pad under her opposite foot to support also helps. (garden kneeling pad) Also not going from a stand still in a stall to the trimming area, but well flexed, and loosened up and don't be afraid to take a short walk away and back to loosen up again and relieve tension during the trim. Sloped areas can help as well. But, what stands out mostly, is that he is still uncomfortable with his arthritis and its showing up during the trim. Now walk him away and know that he is showing you his level of comfort that is all the time. I suspect the supplement is not doing its job for him. I looked at the analysis of the Smart Flex Senior and i'm not thinking you're getting the "100% Happiness Guarantee" Predominately glucosamine/chondroitin and devil's claw. Since the first two are joint integrity, I have a feeling its the devil's claw that is not cutting through the inflammation. Just a thought.....I also agree with the Bute beforehand.


  19. It can take up to a couple of years to fuse.

    If this were my horse, lame, I would pull any shoes and give her, her hoof back, replacing it with boots with padding to help develop the hoof stronger and lessen the impact. While I had that hoof bare, I'd get a balanced trim on her feet. The breakover back where it belongs, the heels back under her descending weight heel first landing. Yes, the movement to make it all work for her. Having a balanced hoof means that the hoof is tightly in line with the bone and all torque and aggravation is gone...with every step. Then move to work that trim and help the hoof develop.

    For the pain, I'd go after the inflammation. I'd feed Move-Ease from mybesthorse.com. No Bute in it and safe for an IR horse and so safe, that you can stay on the loading dose for a year. Ofcourse, its a proprietary formula, which means they don't have to tell you what's in it, but I took a leap of faith because the formula was created in my nutrition class by a fellow student and approved by Dr. Kellon. Wow! It works! Its made my eyebrows go up a few times to its effects, one was a sacro-illiac problem and my mare is 28 with arthritis. She looks likes she's 10 years younger and has taken back her leadership of the herd. Best of all, it worked so well that I threw my Bute in the garbage, never to buy it again. With the sacro-iliac problem, the horse was 3-legged lame for months until I left the vet and looked elsewhere. I fed Move-Ease 2 weeks before the chiro came and the foot went down the day before he arrived. It took 2 sessions to free him, then 2 months later, a setback and leg up again. I went back to the loading dose of Move-Ease and the foot was down and being used again in 2 days. Seven months of strengthening rehab and problem all gone. He's not on it anymore...he's good. You can talk to Joan at mybesthorse.com and ask any questions. I paired it with HA and avoided yucca and glucosamine because they promote IR. I don't have IR problems, I just treat them like they already are, because I don't want to go there.

    Hope this helps...I know it will.


  20. Firstly, bless you for rescuing Chevy. His name suits him so well! Big horse and a lot of weight on those feet. I wouldn't like to see him any heavier than he is right now.

    It sounds like you are under good care from the vet and from what I can see in the xrays, a balanced trim is needed on his feet, which is very important. This one is a biggie for continued comfort. The shoes may or may not help with his comfort. Have some serious conversations with the farrier. I would consider the barefoot trim and no shoes as well. It will give him a chance to remediate his own foot and make it his again. This will remove the impact of a steel shoe and his weight coming down on it. It will improve the mechanism of his hooves and help him be the best he can be in the face of it. It will improve blood flow and promote healing and miracles have been known to happen. A stronger hoof that is better developed, good thrush care, cause that can cause lameness overnight, a trim that is balanced and stayed on top of and you can also help nutritionally at less cost as well, like flax and an anti-inflammatory. Trace minerals are very important for hoof health/strength as well. If you look at the xrays, you'll see horizontal lines on the wall on both sides. This is a hoof that is getting impacted like an accordian between his descending weight and the steel shoe..jammed up on the left side, crushed on the right. This is a hoof that cannot take his weight and needs to be stronger. A balanced hoof with improved blood flow will help a lot with the healing and stopping continued aggravation that feeds arthritis.

    I am not a vet and don't claim to be one, so I suggest that serious conversations with the vet and farrier are important and 2nd opinions should also be in the mix, if needed. Anything that is suggested, research it and know the method's effects and limitations. Bute can be very limited, producing ulcers fast, making him think he's good to go and taxing himself. Bute does help with inflammation, but it actually prevents healing. Pain keeps the horse careful. Steroid use should also be weighed accordingly. Research it and know about whatever suggestions are made. Have better conversations, ask better questions, get better answers. Do the homework, cause you are the only one that can advocate for him.

    I also suggest that you go here..http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/ECHoof/info .for better help and advise with things that you haven't considered yet and about the things you have already considered. A good conversation here, would be a very good place to be indeed. I would post these xrays on there and get a conversation going, regardless that he's not IR. The protocol for the feet are the same and the experts are available on that site. Things like Jiagulan to improve blood flow and Move-Ease, which allowed me to throw my Bute in the garbage, it worked so well. Even though he's not IR, you will get advise that will help him not be IR, which is a risk all by itself because he is getting older. The trick to saving money is to get smart and make the right moves first, always with patience on your sleeve.

    Best wishes, and hope this helps....


  21. Adding Magnesium to the diet is sound nutrition anyway. Chromium does not need to be supplemented unless chromium is low in your area. All I know is that is it not low in Illinois. So, unless you live in Illinois, lol, you will need to find out what the chromium situation is in your area. Neither are a safe guard against IR In general nutrition though, magnesium has over 300 jobs to do in the body and one important one is regulating the firing of cells. Magnesium controls the movement of calcium by controlling the sensitivity and excitement of activity in tissues like the heart, nervous system, skeletal muscle and smooth intestinal muscle. It also maintains blood vessel relaxation and in sensitivity of cells to insulin because elevated ionized calcium is part of the IR mechanism, so magnesium helps.

    The magnesium is a major mineral that needs to be balanced to calcium (along with phosphorus) to be right. The only way to know that is to test the hay and find out how much magnesium is needed vs. the calcium. They should be 2:1 calcium/magnesium. Say, if you are feeding alfalfa hay, which is usually much higher in calcium. It makes the magnesium deficient in the face of it right there. I had grass hay that came off a field that alfalfa was to follow, only the weather had caused an alfalfa influence that came up early in my crop. I found out after testing that I didn't need to add anything because the amount in the hay was meeting the horse's needs, but in order to balance it with calcium and make it work, I needed 21g of magnesium, which is just about the maximum amount of magnesium that a horse can absorb. Testing can really tell you the truth on the matter. The IR emergency diet says to supplement 5g Magnesium until the test tells you otherwise. Its one thing to meet needs, but it will get deleted in the horse if the balance is off with calcium.

    So, see if you need to supplement chromium at all in your area first and the magnesium can be found at Uckele.com for a fraction of the price. You can get Magnesium Oxide, for under $10 or Bioplex Magnesium in a proteinate form that is is more bio available to the horse for $24.95. There are other magnesium oriented products there and help as well, along with the savings. Dr. Kellon is on board as an advisor there as well. Definitely worth a visit. Hope this helps....

    As for the sore muscles, I can imagine that they are being fed better with oxygen, now that he is fixed up. A good recovery of development and strength and building muscle etc., could see it all come together now and the sore muscle problem may minimize itself. Speak to the vet. Best wishes to you both, its been quite an adventure, indeed!