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About r_beau

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday April 5

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    North Dakota
  • Interests
    Barrel racing is my passion, but I also enjoy other gaming events. I do also like doing some showing now and again including reining, competitive trail, horsemanship, western pleasure, and more! I've even taken on a little English riding too. Hmm, now that I think about it - if it involves a horse ... I am interested! I feel that a horse is well-rounded when they can experience many different things and learning/experiencing new things also helps make you a better rider and more knowledgable horseperson.
  1. Trends

    Why do you say that? While "bell boots" originally serve a purpose to protect the back feet from over-reaching and hitting the back of the front feet, why is it impossible to believe that one back leg can't step on another back leg? Sport boots only cover so much on the hind legs, and doesn't protect the heel bulb or the coronet band. I see nothing wrong with using bell boots on the hind legs if your horse is prone to stepping on himself.
  2. Circle Y Flex Trees

    I also have a Circle Y Lisa Lockhart Flex2 WIDE barrel saddle. It fits my horse great and I love it! Honestly can't tell it's a flex tree at all.
  3. What Do You Think Of My Horses Pedigree?

    Pedigree is pretty "plain" in my opinion, as any well-recognized names are quite far back. The back is a bit long, shoulder is steep, croup is not well-muscled. Might be slightly cow-hocked (hard to judge with the picture) and might have slightly steep pasterns in front (or could be the way she is standing). I like that her canon bones are short and her hocks are low to the ground. Overall, not a bad looking mare.
  4. My Gelding Is Scared Of Flashlights

    Desensitize your horse to a flashlight the same way you would desensitize him to anything else. Just because he's scared of it, doesn't mean you shouldn't teach him not to be scared of it. And a flashlight is a very common thing for horses to be scared of.
  5. Spookiness Question.

    I'd be finding a new trainer if they tell you the horse will only ever be able to be ridden in an arena. That's absolutely ridiculous. True, this horse may never be a bomb-proof fearless trail horse. But that's okay. All horses are different. But there's no reason why he can't gain the confidence to go down the trail relatively relaxed. 90% of horse training issues is actually HANDLER or RIDER issues. If the rider is not confident or is tense, guess what? So will your horse. This horse needs a confident rider to take him outside in a very regular basis. And it takes time, time, time and more time. I've had my current horse for just about a year and a half (was basically green broke when I got him) and last year he was not a solid trail horse. This year, yes. I would be comfortable riding him with no saddle in the dark. Yes, he spooks at things on occasion, but he's a good horse. I would not have said that last year. 5 is young, but there's no reason that lots of wet saddle blankets and a confident rider can't turn him into a decent trail horse.
  6. Pedigree ?- Duaghter Buying Her First 2 Yr.old Prospect

    Agree with the others. The horse's pedigree does not stand out to me. However, the pedigree doesn't make the horse. What you'll want to look for is a 2-yr-old who has great conformation, and a build that you want for barrels: Hocks low to the ground, rounded hindquarters, good solid legs, long underline, not too steep of a shoulder, etc. And just watch how the prospect moves. Does he naturally engage his hindquarters? Does he move fluidly? You want a horse that can move athletic. Buying a prospect can very much be a total gamble; but it's also fun to make all the steps yourself. Good luck!
  7. Would These Bloodlines Make A Nice Barrel Horse?

    There's not much that jumps out at me as far as the "popular" barrel racing bloodlines, but your horse certainly has racing QH speed on the top, and TB speed on the bottom. While pedigree can help you estimate if you will have a winning barrel horse, it certainly is only one aspect to consider. I find that conformation and the horse's willingness/try are much better indicators, than strictly pedigree. Do you have a photo you can post of your horse? There's certain conformation characteristics we look for in a barrel horse, and while not every winning barrel horse will have the perfect conformation, it is a good start. But most importantly, a horse that loves his job and tries hard everytime, will trump pedigree and can trump conformation (granted, if there isn't something serious that is going to cause soundness issues down the road).
  8. Riding Bridleless-Question

    Agree with the above. It's not going to hurt him!! Congrats on working so nicely with your horse! Riding bridleless certainly has its benefits!
  9. Ring Sour Horse

    1) Always make sure your horse has (at the minimum) yearly visits with the vet, dentist, and chiro. If the horse is in pain, you can bet he will refuse to enter that arena to do his job. 2) Always make sure your tack fits. Ill-fitting tack will cause pain, whether it is the saddle, cinch, headstall, bit, etc. Again, a horse in pain will not want to enter the arena where it hurts more 3) Proper training. Horses that have been soured on their job (whether that is barrels or roping or team penning or whatever) will not want to go into that arena, if they hate their job. 4) Don't always do the same thing. A fresh mind on a horse will go a long way. 5) Keep anxiety to a minimum. If the horse is overly nervous or anxious, the gate is going to be a scary place. Keep your horse relaxed by doing a variety of things in the arena (do not always run, run, run) and make sure you present the gate as sometimes being a good stop to be (getting to rest and relax). And do not unneccessarily spur, whip, kick, or man-handle your horse in the arena or near the gate. It makes them resent their job and makes them stress out.
  10. What Type Of Tie-Down Is This?

    Interesting discussion here. Just one thing I want to point out is that these horses get very, very on-the-muscle for 10 consecutive nights of running the barrels in the same arena, in that high intensity high energy Thomas and Mack arena. Granted this past year I believe Sherry only ran George twice in two of the later rounds, but that's because Stingray (her main mount) slipped and fell around Round 6 or 7 on the second barrel. You are going to need a few extra tools in your trailer to make it through those 10 days without hitting a barrel and keeping your horse honest through the pattern. Not to mention the first barrel is completely blind, until you get out of the alley. By that point, you are already running full blast. Sherry Cervi is one of THE most respected barrel racers of all time. Period. And by far one of the best riders in the business (very quiet hands, body, and legs at all times). I am not going to question one single thing that she does, because she knows what her horses need. She knows what she is doing. If George needs a little help through the pattern via a war bonnet, he's going to get one. When $18,000 is up for grabs to win the round, you bet you are going to give your horse the tools to WIN.
  11. Westren Riding Lesson 2

    I personally do not use any shine or detangling products on my horses on a regular basis. Silicone products simply coat the hair and actually do NOT help it to grow. You'd be better off either washing the horse and using a conditioner, or using a leave-in conditioner (that doesn't require rinsing) to encourage healthy hair. Diet and nutrition is also very important to have a healthy, shiny horse. However, for showing purposes, I love love Show Sheen and love love Cowboy Magic detanger. Well worth the price tag, in my opinion.
  12. Training A Pole Horse

    And I am very glad to see, barrelhorseluver, that you have a much better attitude about taking advice and taking critiques (than you did on the other forum that got you banned). I really am glad to see that.
  13. Training A Pole Horse

    I would highly suggest getting Marlene Eddleman's DVD on pole bending, as well as the book: 19 second pole bending by Wayne Sandberg. Both are very helpful when training a pole bending horse. There are several things I like my horses to be able to do, before they ever see a barrel or a pole for training --walk, trot, and canter on a loose rein and relaxed --be soft in the bridle and be able to break at the poll --stop softly from any gait --simple lead changes and flying lead changes --can sidepass, and independently move the hindquarters and shoulders --bend and counterbend --can make "perfect circles" on their own, with only one rein from the rider Basically, I want to be able to control any part of my horse's body at any time at any speed. And the perfect circles are essential to teach them to use their hind end, keep it engaged, and teach them to be responsible for their own body position. I like my horses to learn to manage things on their own, with little to no help from me. Also, before any horse sees the pattern, I'm am going to have them routinely checked by the vet for soundness and health, by the dentist for teeth, and by the chiro for any back/spine issues. For both the poles and barrels, you don't have to do the pattern over and over and over to work on the fundamentals you need. Lots of circles, drills, and different pattern exercises keep the horse's mind fresh and keeps them from getting soured by doing the same exact thing every time. Now specifically for the poles, I want to make sure they have a large pocket for that first turn; especially in young horses. As they add speed, that turn will naturally suck in closer, and I don't want a knocked end pole. I train my horses to rate and turn when I sit my weight deep into the saddle. And since I have already taught them perfect circles, I will use one hand on a direct rein for the end pole, and balance myself with my outside hand holding on the saddle horn. I will do this even at the walk, because I want to stay 100% consistent in my cues for the day when I am going full speed (then my cues will not have changed and the horse is not confused). When you begin weaving the poles, I like to sidepass them laterally between each pole. While I will NOT cue the horse for a flying lead change, I have already taught them flying lead changes. I know that they have the muscle strength to balance on both leads and I know they are capable physically of doing a flying lead change. If I have taught them all the steps before starting the pattern, they will pick it up naturally. So let's say that we have already turned the 1st end pole to the left. As we approach the first pole to weave, I tip my horses nose to the right, and use my "inside" right leg to create a bend in the horse and move them to the left. When my knee lines up with the pole (on my right side) I ask the horse to bend the opposite way. I also over-exagerate the lateral movement by moving them father laterally than they actually go. This reinforces that lateral movement. And by using my legs in training, it will automatically cue for the lead change when we progress to a lope. Again, your middle-of-the-run end pole should be different than you're weaving. I am making sure my horse has a good-sized pocket going into the turn. I sit deep in the saddle to cue my horse to rate and turn. And I am using only one hand on the reins, balancing myself with my outside hand on the saddle horn, since I have already taught my horse to do a perfect circle on their own. And then you weave back, making sure to sidepass through the poles. Perfect the walk. Then move onto the trot. Perfect the trot. Then move onto the lope. Perfect the lope. Then add speed. Keep in mind it can take anywhere from 6 months to 2 years to make a finished pole bending horse, depending on the fundamentals the horse starts with.
  14. Breakaway Roping Lesson 3

    Really? Maybe you should take that advice yourself. Practice what you preach --- don't just preach.
  15. Reccomend A Saddle Pad?

    I have an Impact Gel pad and I love love love it. My next purchase this year will be a 5 Star pad because I want an extra saddle pad around, and I've wanted to try one myself for a long time. PacaPaca -- While it's true that trends always will go around and come around, I do think the wool and felt pads we have today are much, much better than those that were around 20 or 30 years ago. Todays pads are much more formed to the horse's back (not flat and square pieces of felt) and have a lot more pressure-absorbing technology behind them. I've always hated neoprene pads (they are stiff as a board) and hated fleece pads (the fleece just smashes down and holds no support at all). I like felt and wool because it's not stiff, and it will lay nicely on the horse's back as well as wick away moisture. I grew up with nothing but nylon halters. We got our first rope halter (hand made by a neighbor) for my horse about 10 years ago. Haven't gone back to nylon since. You can get a horse much more responsive and soft in a rope halter, IMO. The only nylon halters my horses wear are breakaway halters when they are trailered and tied (in case a horse falls, they won't be "hung").