qheventer

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Everything posted by qheventer

  1. Getting The Horse To Stand In The Trailer

    Years ago, I backed the trailer up to the round pen and left food and hay on it and left the horse loose in the round pen. This particular horse didn't eat for 3 days --- some horses are just claustrophobic and too scared to do it on their own. I also tried the routine of feeding at the trailer and eventually on the trailer as well -- that didn't work either. The only thing that worked with him was asking for one foot on and off a million times, not ask for the 2nd foot until he was perfectly fine with putting that first foot on there. Then after he's doing 2 feet comfortably, then ask for the 3rd, fourth. Basically don't ask for the next step until he's absolutely bored to death and comfortable with what you're already asking for. I spent hours upon hours with this horse on a daily basis to get him comfortable on the trailer. Eventually he loaded much nicer and would stay if I kept in the routine of making him wait for a while each time it was time to unload. If not, he anticipated and would come bolting out the next time. He got much, much better but he was never one of those that was completely relaxed with hauling unless he was loose in half of the trailer. What seemed to help him most was not locking him in until he showed signs he was more comfortable. The other thing that helped was changing my routine and make him wait before coming off -- I've noticed the same thing with other horses that tend to anticipate. I've seen some that are so bad that you pull in the driveway and turn on the trailer lights and they start dancing because they know they're fixing to come off -- it's repetition. They know the routine. What I've done and still do with mine is pull in and wait for at least a few minutes. If it's night and i need the light, I'll turn on the light and wait a few more. Then I'll open one door and wait again. Then the other door and wait. If I can, I'll even go so far as to pull off their shipping boots while they're standing there or I'll just undo their tie and make them stand still before they back up or turn around. Just anything and everything you can think of to delay the unloading process so that they have to wait.
  2. Ration Balancer

    Mooreman's Gro-Strong minerals is a good forage balancer. Although it's a supplement rather than a forage balancer, Remission is formulated for horses that are prone to founder.
  3. Threadworm & Skin Questions

    #1 ----If a horse has neck threadworms and you treat with a double dose of ivomec, how long should it take to see an improvement? #2 ---Can the hairloss that comes with threadworm infestation resemble a hive pattern? One of ours started losing a little bit of hair back in June. The patches were small, round kind of like hivest except I never saw any raised areas before the hair fell out. No swelling or anything. The spots weren't crusty either. A few, not all, would have a scab on them after the hair was gone - I figured it was from him scratching himself. He also was rubbing his tail even after I wormed him with Quest -- that was just prior to all this. ((Back in April I had pulled blood because his energy wasn't good and he was slightly anemic which is why I had wormed him with the Quest and done an initial feed change.)) He's also lost hair down the center of his belly in a line. That area does have a couple of scabbed, raised places. I've washed him in everything from betadine, listerine and treated with Vetricyn, Nu-Stock, strong epsom salt water. No difference. I had changed his feed just prior to this and thinking it could be allergies, I changed his feed again and cut out the grain and also changed his bedding. I didn't see any difference in his itchiness. He doesn't have any breathing problems that you sometimes see with allergies. His energy is good. I just treated him with the double dose of Ivomec a week ago today. He's got so many little bald spots now it's hard to keep up with what's old and what's new -- I need to start marking them! Although he's not scratching as much, I'm not seeing a huge difference -- or at least the difference I thought I would see. He's still itchy, although he's not scraping his body up against the wall. Mostly he's just rubbing his belly. I had planned on dosing him again with the Ivomec next week.
  4. Threadworm & Skin Questions

    Thanks for bumping that up! Great threads and answered a lot of questions.
  5. Threadworm & Skin Questions

    I used 1equifax and one regular zimectrin. Does it take a while to see a difference?
  6. A Once Sweet Easy To Ride Horse Now A Skittish Bucker...

    You've gotten some great food for thought. And I agree -- Chris probably did as good as anybody could with the situation that happened in the environment that it happened and the amount of time that he had. I'd only like to add that you don't really know who your horse really is or how well they're really trained until you've pushed all the buttons. It's always the buttons we don't push that suprise us and show up our problems in our training. You really have to push on a horse to find the buttons that set them off and sometimes they do reveal a horse or lack of training we didn't realize was there. One thing that I would do --- I would contact Chris Cox and tell him what's going on and how you feel and what you've observed. I think it could benefit you both if you did that. I will say this too ----- it's a rare horse that doesn't take advantage of person's fear or lack of assertiveness. And the smarter the horse, the more advantage they take and the easier they pick up on fear. I would say, from your post, your horse is picking up on your apprehension. He's either doing one of two things -- he's either taking full advantage of it and giving you the middle hoof, or he needs someone to lead and you're not so he's taking the lead. Good luck & be safe!
  7. Padded Walking Horse Question

    First, let me say I DO NOT want this to turn into a debate about the ethics of padded horses. This is just a simple yes or no question. Are padded horses required to back in the show ring? Do you have a source for your answer such as the link to a rule book, etc?
  8. Horse Is Really Hanging On The Lunge

    I'd go back and work on teaching her how to give through her face first. When you take up contact and create pressure, when she gives to that, release the contact as a reward. Once she gets good at a standstill, then work on it lungeing her very close up. As she gets better, then let her out a little more.
  9. Arab With Weird Mane

    If you're showing hunter type equitation & show hack (i'm assuming that's the same as road hack?)you could just do a running braid and use rubber bands periodically to keep it together. As far as the spookiness -- get there early, for one and just expose them to everything at a nice relaxed walk first. I'll work them on the lungeline but instead of running them at the end of a lungeline I work them close up and work on bending and getting their mind first. If they're bending and their inside ear is on me and I'm not seeing a lot of white in that inside eye that tells me their mind is on me and then it's time to go to work. Get the mind and the feet will follow.
  10. How Would You Go About Legging Up A 20 Yr Old Barrel Mare?

    Love older horses! She looks like she's in good shape and her weight is good. I'd rather they have a little extra weight starting out anyhow -- easier to take it off than put it on as they get older. I don't think you'd have any trouble at all getting her in shape if you're consistent and disciplined about it it. I'd start out working on bending and just get her soft and supple first. Lots of bending and walking small circles. Lateral work and things like that. You can to really get her bending through those circles and stepping up underneath herself. Let her do some stretching too to help strengthen that top line. Then I'd work on transitions and just getting her balance back. She's got to be balanced in her turns and has to redevelope the strength to hold her frame around the barrels. Walk to trot and back to walk on different size circles will help with that. You can also work on spirals making your circles bigger and smaller. After you work on those things, then I'd start to bump her to cantering and start working on her conditioning. You can start out with a goal of 2 minutes straight of trotting and a 2 minutes straight of cantering and go from there. Most performance horses will work towards 10 minutes of each ultimately. But it takes a while to get there. I agree -- keep her off the pattern and keep her active with trails and chasing cows if you can. Just anything that keeps her moving and not bored. Extreme Cowboy Races and Trail Challenges are good too. I'd also get her on a joint supplement to help her joints stay pain free help keep her supple. Enjoy! Sounds like you've got a fun show season coming up!
  11. Starting To Get Fustrated With My Gelding

    to the other posters advice. Think of it this way -- if you only had 10% of your sight how confident would you be not being able to see around you and not knowing what was around you? You'd be nervous and probably impatient too. Just because a horse is older and knows how to do something doesn't mean the work quits. Keeping a horse well mannered is something that you have to work on throughout their lives. Good ground manners are something you have to work on every day. And if a horse has a health issue, such as they can't see and it's getting progressively worse then the more critical the routine work becomes. I had a mare that was completely blind that I rode and showed some as well. She was awesome but the only reason she was was because she trusted me completely. We didn't get that over night. It took a lot of work and it took consistent on going work to keep her that way. On the alfalfa, I agree that feeding grass hay if you can would be a better choice. But I also know that it depends on what type of hay you have available. You might think about a mix hay if complete grass hay isn't easy to get. Just take a deep breath and remember that we're supposed to be the smarter species and help them out and help them to understand. They don't do things out of ill will or malice.
  12. Total Equine Horse Feed

    I've got two on it because they were already on it. They keep all their higher dollar competeing horses on it. ($60,000+)They barrel race and have won rounds at some of the top futurity & derby races in the country. The older one was put it on it as a teeny scrawny yearling and he's now 15.2+ and 1250 pounds now as a 3 year old. He's a futurity horse. The other is a long yearling that was purchased at a sale in December and put on it then. I've already seen a difference in her. Her coat has slicked off and she's filled out and has grown. It's about the same price as Strategy. The drawback is that if you're feeding it for weight, you do have to feed quite a bit in comparison to other feeds. I like it because it's alfalfa based instead of beet pulp based. I also like the fact that it's got Rice Bran in it.I also like the fact that it has very little molassas. As far as "roughage products" --- Purina also lists "roughage products" on their feed lists. Triple Crown feeds do not but they are one of the few. Unless something changes, I'll keep them both on it. I'm paid up to go to the BFA futurities in Ft. Smith & OKC this year with the older horse so I'm hoping it pays off!
  13. Tie Down On Higher Level Speed Event Horses

    Sherri Cervi uses a tie down: Sherri Cervi Photo Chad Crider uses a tied down: Chad Crider Pics I used to think that horses that had to have a tie down weren't broke or soft and needed more training. Then I ran finished barrel horse that been used on the feed lots and was a been there done that all around horse. You could wrap your legs on her and she'd round her back. She was soft in the face as well. I tried running her without a tie down -- won't make that mistake again! She was extremely powerful coming out the alley way. If you held her back and didn't have a tie down on her you had a head in your face because she was wanting to run -- you can NOT think about getting one rounded with their head down AND busting down the alleyway when you're starting your run. You just can't. And when it comes time against the clock, the last thing you're going to worry about is a headset. You're going to worry about staying on, making a nice clean turn, and running mock 9. Anything else is incident to. The thing is too that you can tune on one and tune on one where they're perfect but when you start adding TRUE speed you get a totally different animal. Some horses use the tie down to brace or balance against. Then some I think it just helps them keep it together when their nerves are busting out at the seems. I do think there are times that they're used as a crutch instead of a tool but I don't think you can really make a judgement call on it until you've made a white knuckled grip type run down the alleyway.
  14. Issues With Taking The Bit. Help?

    I agree on teaching one to lower their head as mentioned earlier. That does fix a lot of bridling problems. With my young horses I'll start out handling their mouth and putting my fingers in their mouth. I don't attempt to bit until they're already opening their mouth for me and they're really comfortable with that first. Next step for me is putting a rope in their mouth instead of a bit just to get them used to having something in their mouth. A rope is easier for them to get used to. The step after that is to put a bit in a couple of times and then just let them wear it for a while in a safe environment like a stall or pen and just let them hang out. When bitting up, I'll stick my fingers in the side of their mouth to get them to open up. I don't force the bit in and I make sure I don't bump their teeth. I want it to be comfortable for them. I don't like metal bumping against my teeth so I'm sure they probably don't like it either.
  15. Show Clothes

    The first one will be hard to keep clean. Also, it depends on your skill level. If you're exceptionally confident, you can get out there and wear colors that will get noticed. However if you're still learning, you don't want a color that really gets you noticed because you'll also be noticed if you're not having a good ride. You want to go with more classic colors in that case. Between the 2 the second one seems like a better option. I will say that for 4H and open shows, don't worry about being under dressed. As long as you have a nice crisp ironed long sleeve shirt you'll be fine. A good judge is just looking to make sure you're clean and neat and wearing a long sleeve collared shirt that's appropriate. Good luck and have fun!
  16. Anxiety Bomb With A Big Engine

    What a VERY VERY pretty girl!!! Arabs generally more intelligent than most other breeds. They're also more sensitive in that they don't require nearly as much leg/seat/rein as other breeds. What gets a lot of people in trouble is that they over-cue and/or cause some sensory over-load. You also don't tell an Arab to do something -- you ASK. It's because of their breeding and how they have been kept for thousands of years -- in the tent with the family. If she were mine, I'd review feed as the others have said. I've found that beet pulp, although it's touted as a calm feed, can actually have the opposite effect on some horses. I'd also review my work routine. Some horses, especially green horses, just need more work than others to keep their energy levels down and their respect levels up. Plus, some horses thrive on the routine of having a routine and knowing what to expect --especially smart ones that worry a lot. Keep in mind though that you probably won't wear her out. Arabs have a lot of stamina and half Arabs do as well. So you have to use your work routine to keep just the edge off and get her mind. I'd look at my warm up routine and her body language. Is her mind truly on you BEFORE you get on? Is her body in an arc when you're working her on the ground or is her body stiff and her nose pointed to the outside? Is her inside eye and ear on you? If you don't have that arc in their body and the inside ear and eye both on you, it's not time to get on. When you ride and she throws a fit, take a big deep breath and relax yourself FIRST. Arabs pick up very quickly on how we're feeling. If you get tense/nervous then she's going to be less confident in your ability and will get even more nervous. So relax and think it through first. Then work on a game plan to get her mind back on you. Focus on getting her body soft and in an arc just like you did on the ground. Work on putting her back in that place. You can do that by circles or things like roll backs. If she jigs, use that energy and ask her to side pass or half pass. A lot of times lateral work like that will cause one to settle down and slow down because it really requires them to think and work. They don't have to be advanced in their training to do that --ask for just the hip over and use that forward energy to keep them moving forward. As the others have said, check your tack. Arabs and half arabs can be built a little differently through their backs and they're short backed a lot of times too. I know they make Arab square skirt saddles but I won't use anything but a round skirt on an Arab or half arab because I've had Arabs get sore. I'm a big fan of the patience pole. Ideally, I like to put them on there for at least 30 mins to an hour after every ride. As far as cows... If you can start her off by working in a pen with just a few cows that would be best. A bunch of cows that start moving out is intimidating to a green horse that hasn't been around cattle a lot. If you can set her up and just let her track for a bit slowlly, that will help to build her confidence. One last thought too.... In order for her to start to calm down, she needs to bond with you and feel confident with you so she can relax. That doesn't mean tons of treats or things like that. It means spending some calm time together and working through things. Bottom line, there's nothing but a lot of wet saddle blankets and a patient confident rider that's going to fix this. But it definitely CAN be done. Good luck and stay safe.
  17. Stallion Owners I Have A Question

    We gelded our stallion at 5 this year. A good trainer friend of mine gelded one of their stallion prospects this year at 5 as well. He told me if they make it past 5, you'll be fine but it seems like the 5th year is when you really find out what they're going to do. My gelding had been injured twice pretty bad as a yearling so I took him slow. Showed him halter his 2-5th years,didn't ride him off the farm until his 4th year and didn't have any problems. He wasn't real nippy, was never aggressive or anything like that. Always quite. He had 2 mares right across from his stall that we walked by every day. He's 15.3hands and 1250+ pounds. I'm 5'3". This year he realized he was bigger than me and one morning he shouldered me and knocked me down coming in his stall by the mares. I got me a nice'tool' and set him up so that I could correct him. He knocked me down two more times. Third time I was successful... but I had a nice bruise in the center of my forehead from getting knocked down 3 times prior. I got to thinking about it and I thought what if I step down from riding him at a show and the 'right' mare comes along? It's not like I'm going to be riding with a whip in my back pocket all the time -- which is exactly what it would take. So I gelded him. It's one thing to have an agressive stallion. It's another to have one that knows how to use his weight. One thing that I would have done differently with him is put his feet to work in a lot of different directions instead of putting him to work lungeing. I talked to Stacey Westphal about how she managed her stallion. She puts them to work and keeps the guessing. Whacking on one all the time will cause some of them to become defensive and aggressive back. If you lunge one, like I had mine, they get used to the routine so then they'll just go ahead and act up and then automatically start lungeing because they know that's what you're fixing to make them do. Which was part of the problem with my horse. I'm glad I gelded him even if he hadn't done anything because I can relax. I was constantly haveing to watch around me everywhere we hauled him and I couldn't enjoy him on account of that. Now I can just relax and enjoy him. I do think though that they get more sure of themselves at the 4-5th years. They start to realize they're a stallion and they'll try things a 2-3 yr old just won't.
  18. Random Photos Of Our Recent Fun.

    Looks like you guys had a fabulous time!!!!
  19. He's Part Billy Goat!

    Glad you had fun out trail riding. Sounds like you've got an awesome horse!
  20. Opinions On Horse...(Update)

    What was the trainer's daily routine with her? Was she worked every day? Tied out? Lunged first before ridden? Also what was your trainer's routine when she started to get fiesty? Put her feet to work so that she's having to guess? With some horses, routine can mean everything and mean the difference between a good ride and a bad one. Horses like routine because they know what to expect an they know what the game plan is. Plus, it just gets them ready to think about working and prepared for it. One thing I'm learning more and more is to not get on a horse until I truly have their mind. Lungeing is not about wearing one out, although some horses that have a lot of energy may need that. But lungeing is really more about giving them a chance to get their mind and then their feet. They'll tell you when it's time to get on if you'll listen. A soft arc in their body, inside ear on you and no white in that inside eye are all the signs along with softness. If you don't have that, it's not wise to step up. If I've got one that's a brat, I'll work them on the ground lungeing in the round pen and also out in the open -- you'll get two different horses and find out where your weaknesses are when you lunge them in the open. Then I'll tie them out for a good 30-40 minutes. They'll get worked a few minutes every time they go in our out and then they'll get worked at least once a day under saddle. Lots of wet saddle blankets. It's just like other poster said -- if you can't get their mind and feet on the ground, you won't get it under saddle. So get it there first and have them soft and light and giving and thinking about you there first and then graduate to the saddle. Once you get to the saddle make the other horses/barn places of work and away from there places of rest. If you've done your ground work, if they go to blow, it should be easy to get the head around and get control of their feet and put them to work and keep them guessing. If you're having to pull to get the head around, then you'll need to go back and work on getting your horse light. Another thing is that horses will think about acting up before they do and that thought will show up in their body before it happens. It's subtle but it's there. When you feel it, get them working on roll backs, etc BEFORE they blow. You horse rode well with the trainer and is bad at home. I've heard that actually a LOT. Usually it boils down to the owner just not working the horse as much and in the same manner as what the trainer did. It's not a case of a different location, but a different routine and not as much consistency. This is why you see a lot of show horses in training year around. The owners just can't get the horse to perform at same level as the trainer did. I think this horse can have some hope -- she's already shown she's good at the trainers. However, horses like these require dedication, consistent handling and lots of wet saddle blankets and tenacity. Don't get hurt and stay safe and good luck!
  21. My Sister Has A Question For All Of You

    The great thing about Arabs is that they'll try your heart out for you and will try anything you ask. We've got an Arab that won year end hunter, started him on barrels and this year we've been sorting cows on him. Nice little colorful horse!!
  22. 4-H Showmanship

    Absolutely check your state rules and guidelines. I've judged 4H here. Generally speaking, 4H is about good grooming but also knowing your pattern and being precise. Every show will have a different pattern and it makes a good impression to know your pattern and be extremely prcise. As far as what a judge what expect, if your horse is half Arab I would expect the mane to be styled like an Arab. If showing hunter english, then braided. If showing saddleseat english or western not braided. Pretty horse, btw!
  23. Working With A More Reactive Horse

    You know, it's funny. It seems as I'm getting older I seem to come full circle with training ideas and that sort of thing. Started out only using my legs when I needed and my horses were more reactive - kind of like what you're talking about. Then I hung around trainer/judge that rode with constant leg to help them frame up so that's what I emulated for quite a long time because I've always been so impressionable and lack self confidence... Then I realized my legs were getting more of a workout than my horse was and that as my horses progressed in training they weren't getting lighter they were getting harder to ride and took more leg -- and isn't it the goal as a horse goes further in training that they become easier to ride? So then, after I had that epiphany the more I sorted the more I realized my horses needed to be lighter and quicker and reactive..... thus coming back to where I started in the first plact on this whole training journey.
  24. Women Poses Nude With Dead Horse.

    OT-- VAQHMA, I love your video! Now... to the weirdos... the article said that since they did not shoot the horse to take the pics it's not considered animal cruelty... however, how do they REALLY know they didn't shoot the horse for that purpose? yes, the horse was old, but who's to say the horse was really in that bad of shape? What they did afterwards makes me question their motive to begin with. She's obviously not sad by the fact that her beloved horse has been put down. Most everybody isn't smiling afterwards and here she is having a free for all. I love my horses but out of respect I couldn't do something like that.
  25. Dealing With Rain Rot And Kicking...

    You can coat the area with vaseline and let it sit for at least an hour (I usually let it sit for a few hours) and it'll soften the scabs and they'll come off MUCH easier without scrubbing. Then you should be able to get most of it off by spraying really well. I'd work with him and use a soft cotton rope. Loop the cotton rope around the back leg so you that you can lift the back leg. As long as he's pulling and carrying on, keep tension on the rope and keep the leg up. The second he relaxes, reward him by releasing the pressure and let him put his foot down. I'd work that rope up and down the leg. You could have someone hold the leg up and forward with the rope -- at least that would keep you from getting kicked. Hobbles are another option -- but they need to be hobble trained for that. Another option is tying the leg forward to their halter so that when they kick they're pulling on themselves and on their face. But again, they need to be desensitized to things around their back legs and know not to panic when they can't move their legs. And you need to need to use soft cotton rope that won't burn and use a quick release knot.