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About Eventersrule

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    the wide open road
  1. My Daughter Isn't Interested In Learning To Drive

    I go both ways on this one... I got my license as soon as humanely possible; learner's permit at 14 and 9 months, completed my 60 hours of driving in the first three weeks. BUT, I had places to go. My horses were 30 mins from my house, and I hated staying at school for lunch (3200 kids in the high school, juniors and seniors were allowed to go off campus, I ate at home and saved my lunch money). I had a truck for hauling the horses, but parents said truck must NOT go to school -- it was a nice truck with no reason to run up the miles or have it get key-ed, tires slashed, etc, stupid stuff that happened randomly and often at my high school. So I drove a beater little stick-shift Isuzu with a sticky 2nd gear, worn clutch, heater in the dash that sounded like a gerbil, hole in the exhaust system before the muffler that made it sound ridiculous, iffy brakes, and so forth, that had already been key-ed and dented more than once. One of my best friends drove a new BMW. Hers would never start in the cold, my car always would. No one made fun of me if they wanted a ride to school in the snow. I fully support my parents for a) not giving me a nice car to drive to high school and b )making me drive a manual. I still have fond memories of that car, because it suited all of my needs, and I grew to appreciate it for having character. The car I have now is a manual; I actually enjoy driving it more than an automatic. On the flip side, my brother didn't drive until the summer before he went to college, and only drove then so that he could have a mode of transport to and from college. He didn't need to drive; he went to a boarding school for high school, and didn't really go anywhere that I wasn't going anyway when he was home from school. Student cars weren't allowed at his boarding school and he didn't like driving in general. He did get his license and went on to be a reasonably good driver, but didn't want to drive until he had to. And there was no harm in not having him on the roads at 16, trust me. If your daughter doesn't want to drive, she shouldn't have to...however...she needs to figure out how to get around on her own without your help then. If she does decide to get her license and drive, then she can purchase her own car, OR she can be overjoyed about whatever car you get her. Tell her she can personalize it with whatever seat covers/bumpers stickers/etc she wants, but she will be driving an affordable and reliable vehicle of your choosing and will not complain.
  2. Nose Bleed

    No way to know what it is without a scope. Guesses will just be guesses, and there's no way to treat on that. That being said, I did have a friend who's horse had intermittent nosebleeds from one nostril, similar to the time schedule you described. He had a tumor the size of a softball in his sinus cavity; ended up having it removed through the front of his skull and went on to live another 4-5 happy years before being put down due to tumor regrowth (he was in his middle teens at the time of the first surgery anyway, and nearing his early twenties when euthanized).
  3. Tacks On Your Saddle?

    Just so the record is straight -- that tragic accident was NOT related to poling, it was the use of a "ting" rail (a metal rail that produces a certain sound and feel when hit). The ting rail is set just like a normal rail in the cups; only has an effect if the horse hits the rail...in this particular incident, the horse hit the rail with enough force to flip it out of the cups and into it's own path, then proceeded to land on it. Tragic accident for all involved, but has also occurred with regular wooden or PVC rails as well...or most recently notably, the jump flag off a cross-country jump impaling into the groin of Will Coleman's horse.
  4. Problem..

    Before you get into "I bet it's kissing spines, let's x-ray that!", or "maybe it's the hocks!" just have a vet do an exam...way easier than eliminating issues people on the internet think it might be. Too often owners get into "I want my vet to eliminate this possibility" vs. "I want my vet to perform an exam and eliminate possibilities based upon that." When you call your vet, explain your budget: "My horse does ____, gets better/doesn't get better after bute, and I'm concerned. I have $___ to put into investigating this issue. What can we do?" Vet should say something along the lines of "well, the farm call will be $___. Then my diagnostic exam is $____. Following that, you will have $___ left over, and at that point we'll assess where we need to go from there." GENERALLY speaking (greatly varies from vet to vet)your farm call should be $1 a mile round-trip with a minimum of $50-$60. The basic exam should be $125-$175. Rads are usually $50-$100 a view, bumped down to half-cost after 4 views or so (sometimes, depending on your vet). So, say you started out with a budget of $400 (roughly 6 or 7 skipped chiropractic trips). You'd be able to pay for the farm call, exam fee, and $200 of diagnostics, which is quite a bit. Or, you start out with just enough to cover farm call + exam, and based upon the exam the vet can advise further diagnostics in order of priority, usually with the option of resting the horse until you can afford further diagnostics.
  5. Problem..

    A LOT. You have a very vague issue...horse bucks and seems sore. Your vet should check and palpate over the entire horse, noting points of soreness if found (back, SI, etc). S/He should watch him walk and trot, and note abnormalities (example, a horse that trots with a dropped hip. Not necessarily "lame," and often missed by the untrained eye, but important). Depending on what presents on palpation (for example, sore hocks), flexions should be performed. Should concerns be found on flexions, perhaps blocking bottom-to-top will highlight an area to pursue further. This is purely example -- your horse's problem may be apparent without flexion/blocks/etc. Furthermore, how much are you paying the chiropractor per appointment? I'm willing to bet each appointment is roughly the cost of 1 x-ray film, maybe two depending on your vet. I'd much rather find the problem and treat THAT than put the money into spinal manipulation that doesn't get you any closer to the fix. Chiropractors are not a bad idea, but unless they are a licensed vet as well, they are not as educated on finding the ROOT of the problem before adjusting. For example, my big horse was on stall rest last year with a knee injury to his left knee. His C5 vertebrae was almost constantly out to the left, and wouldn't stay put very long after adjustment. The C5 spinal nerves supply innervation to the shoulder and forearm muscles; it's unlikely that it's a coincidence that the leftward tip of C5 was concurrent to the left knee injury. Since the injury has been healed (8 months now), C5 has stayed put. Point being, I could have had a chiropractor put C5 back in place every week for the rest of the horse's life, and that never would have fixed the real problem. Healing the injury fixed the mis-alignment. Yes, chiropractic work can help horses. However, underlying causes must be eliminated first. You need to ensure you're treating the PROBLEM, not treating the SYMPTOMS.
  6. Problem..

    Honestly, unless your chiropractor is also a licensed vet, stop putting your money in that direction and start putting it in a diagnostic direction...THEN follow up with chiropractic if that is recommended by the vet. I do agree that bute and some time off might be a good plan. That also allows you to say to the vet "Hey, this is my issue. I tried bute and a week off, and ___ happened. What do you think?"
  7. Just looking for other experiences/more info... I have an almost two-year-old bloodhound that has been extremely healthy up until the past month. We feed her Blue Buffalo Adult Large Breed, and she's always readily ate it and done well on it. Roughly three weeks ago, I came home and she had thrown up 3-4 times in her crate (she is in her crate when we are not home; usually no more than 3 hours at a time, I'm in school and my boyfriend works nights, so our schedules overlap to allow her to be outside or loose in the house under a watchful eye most of the time). Took her to the vet immediately as she was in distress and bloodhounds are prone to bloat. She was treated and released, vet was unsure of the cause of the upset stomach but determined it to NOT be bloat, gave medication and said to return to the emergency clinic if she did not stop vomiting in 24 hours. She did not, so back we went...did blood work, checked liver and pancreas, all came back 100% normal. Opted not to x-ray at the time, as the vet could not feel a blockage on palpation, and things were still going through...just not as normal, and most food items were coming back up. We fasted her for 24 hours, then began slowly re-introducing food. Then we began the cycle we are in now. She will be fine for 5-6 days, be healthy and normal in every way...then after a week or so, refuse food for a day or two, vomit several times in one day, and promptly return to normal for the next 5-6 days again. All the while, she acts happy as can be, chases the cat, goes about her normal activity level...just won't stay digestively normal. We have contacted the vet about this again, but they said our only reasonable next option to further diagnose would be invasive exploratory surgery to make SURE there's no foreign body in her digestive tract. I would THINK if there was a foreign body we wouldn't get the 5-6 days of normal in between the episodes. If she really needed surgery we would do it, but it's hard to determine that as a need when she's active and perky. Considering her TPR, bloodwork, pancreas, and liver all come back well within normal ranges, we are hoping to try making environmental changes before getting invasive. Long story short, we were interested in getting her off of bagged dog food (even though Blue Buffalo is reviewed as a "good" commercial dog food) and trying an alternative diet to attempt to eliminate food allergies. I know there's some pet food gurus on here...input, anybody?
  8. How Often Do You Jump?

    Depends on how my horse is doing. Never more than twice a week or so, usually once a week or less...I do so much other pounding on my upper level event horse (galloping to condition, very long dressage schools, etc) that he doesn't need concussive forces of jumping as well unless we're having an issue. When I do jump, it's an educational school, never just "practice" -- an entire course, sometimes starting with a gymnastics grid, usually includes schooling a corner (we have a real one that is built into our jump ring), chevron narrows, a bounce, bending lines to the narrows, etc. Our course is usually comprised of 12-16 jumps, and gets moved every week or so, so the school is always a different technical question. If we have significant trouble answering the questions asked, we will do it again the next day. If the horse is good, they won't jump for another week or so.
  9. This Place Is Dead

    sappy, I feel your pain. I recently moved 600 miles across the country and was trying to figure out when boyfriend's job needed to start, when I could start mine, when we could move out of the place we had an either terminate the lease or find a renter to take it over until the lease ended (only a few months shy of move date), etc...boyfriend finally ended up moving on his own, staying in a hotel and a by-the-week crappy apartment for two weeks until he found us a house there, and I handled everything with our other place from the other end. It's too hard to find on the internet -- everything looks great until you're there in person. Hang in there, moving is a bear! We packed and moved everything ourselves; after moving the horses in the first trip we moved all of our furniture and stuff in my horse trailer. Found out just how big that trailer actually is! However...we looked like the beverly hillbillies...and several of our older neighbors came over to discuss our "redneck tendencies." We had to explain that no, we're classy people, we're just young and too broke for U-Haul or movers thankyouverymuch.
  10. Update Vent And A Few Questions

    Don't take a halter to catch her. Tie a lead around your waist and take grain. The first few days, just feed her some grain, scratch her neck, walk away. After a few days, while you're rubbing on her neck/mane/etc, hug her around the neck. Untie the lead with one hand, slip around neck, lead her with that until you get to the gate and can grab a halter. Once you've caught her, leave a breakaway halter on her at ALL times. Eliminates the "they're eating out of the grain bucket, but flee when I try to put something on them" issue. Also try to have her moved to a smaller field, even if slighter smaller, it'll help. About the life stuff? Honestly, sounds like you need to figure out how to get the GED done and go off to college. I'm under the impression (could be wrong, correct me if I am) that you're home-schooled and have had somewhat limited social contacts outside of your family, which do not always help you as much as possible (I'm getting this from the thread you had about trying to lose weight and not getting family support). Sometimes moving away and forging life on your own is really beneficial to growing up -- and a bachelor's degree is almost a requirement these days; becoming more so every day.
  11. Half Chaps.

    I love my rich chocolate brown half chaps. BUT, I'm OCD enough to be seriously bothered by mismatched boots and chaps (if you bought them that way intentionally). If you buy brown chaps, buy brown boots, and vice versa with black.
  12. This Place Is Dead

    So I did manage to get BigPony to Rood and Riddle for splint bone removal...the surgery is first thing tomorrow morning, which is awesome considering how tied up the surgeons are with the Pollard's awful trailer wreck. Man, having good connections is awesome. Surgeon called me today to ask about the right front splint bone. ummm...say what? Yes, it is possible that the idiot broke medial splint bones in BOTH front legs. I do remember when there was a lot of initial swelling the LF, comparing it to the RF and noticing a small lump on the RF...but assumed it was the "button" of the splint bone, since there was no inflammatory response. So now my fingers are crossed that I'm not having to operate on both of his front legs. I wonder what the heck that horse did. I just want to bring him back home. His empty stall is really sad looking.
  13. This Place Is Dead

    KTS, what was your experience with the splint bone removal? Cost/healing time/concerns after surgery/etc. I think that's going to be my best option, I just need to be sure I'm not causing more harm...ugh, horses. Your horses and mine have covered just about every lameness possible! Glad to hear Riley is on the right track. :)
  14. This Place Is Dead

    It is SUPER dead around here. Things were really looking up for me...then crashed down again. Big Horse's knee was finally 100 percent, I got him fit for the season, I got to jump him a grand total of twice (and he was FABULOUS) and entered Prelim at our first event back. The event is next week, and as of last week, he's on stall rest for Idon'tknowhowlong. Everyone gave me crap about making a big deal over a "popped splint" that he came in from the pasture with...yeah, x-rays show the distal end of the splint bone is fractured. I don't know if there's suspensory ligament damage or not. So, local vet said stall rest, NSAIDs, ice, wraps, re-xray in four weeks. Given that I just moved here, and while I trust this vet, he hasn't extensively worked on either of my horses, I called the sporthorse vet that worked on Big Horse for five years. News is bad. X-ray CD is being sent to a renowned surgeon. Bye-bye riding for the next four to six months, hello leg surgery. Just got that news last night, waiting to hear from surgeon, but I'm big-time bummed. I feel like I'm never going to get to ride my stinkin horse. Worse, now I have to bring up the conversation to Trainer and local vet that I disagree with them, I went off and got a second and third opinion, and I'm putting my horse on the surgery table for what everyone thinks is a simple splint. It's not. It's essentially a bone chip sitting on the suspensory. Let's just pretend that's not going to cause problems for an upper level event horse. This is so frustrating.
  15. Poll - Clips On Your Hunter/jumpers Shoes?

    Quarter clips on my event horses. No clips on old-man Shevy if he's in the midwest/northern region of the USA, quarter clips if he's in the south. Clips really just depend on how much your horse runs the risk of pulling shoes -- obviously the event horses that compete have a large shoe-tossing risk, and any turnout on uneven/possibly muddy/even slightly rocky/clay-like soil will run a higher risk than dry, sandy, flat turnout. Therefore why Shevy changes from plain shoes to quarter clips when he's south of the Mason-Dixon line with me. :)