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About littlebayroan

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    Staff Sergeant of the Wheelbarrow Brigade

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    somewhere hot & sunny...
  • Interests
    Riding and training horses; photography; reading a good book
  1. Horse Brand

    It is very likely that he was initially branded by his breeder, which would be listed on the face of his papers. The numbers on his butt cheeks are probably foaling year and an ID of his sire line. Many of the big ranches have a built-in ID system of letters or numbers that easily identify each stud. (Ex., 09 would be 2009 foaling year and 4323 would be his sire's ID.) The other "ranch" brand on his hip was likely a subsequent owner who uses a brand as ID. If you pull his owner history and Google them, you'll probably be able to find who uses which brand.
  2. Degenerative Suspensory Ligament Disease

    I had a quarter horse gelding who showed all the signs of DSLD. This was 8-9 years ago, and neither vet I took him to recognized it as anything other than a "breakdown" in his hind suspensories. However, I also had a Paso at the time and was reading a lot about DSLD, so I'm sure that's what he had. He went from being "normal" on a good supplement to only some days OK for a light ride to a pasture pet -- I kept him as a pet for as long as he seemed comfortable, then put him down when it became obvious he was having more trouble getting around. It's not as common in Paints/QH but I think it runs in certain bloodlines in them as it seems to do in the Peruvians. (As an aside, I started inquiring on one of the DSLD boards, someone Googled me, automatically assumed I was asking because of the Peruvian, and started posting false info about HIS bloodlines on these forums. I'm not a breeder and not involved in Peruvians in any way, but I found it totally offensive......And kind of funny, since it was a Quarter Horse that I was trying to find hope and treatment for. So, be careful what you say to who in any online discussions, or someone might start mouthing about your unborn foal. People suck.) She should be OK to carry the foal, although it will stress her suspensories toward the end of the pregnancy...And I guess it depends of DSLD is dominant or recessive, whether or not the foal will ever develop it. I don't know how far the research has come. I believe Dr. Kellon was the one doing the can probably google her and get lots of reading material and treatment ideas.
  3. Recent X-Rays From Vet

    I have seen sidebone this bad, and the horse travels 100% sound, walk/trot/lope, still trail rides and is teaching an older woman how to ride. He gets ridden 2 or 3 days a week. Close work between vet and farrier have kept him sound. He was born slightly pigeon-toed and had very poor farrier work early in his life, and the current vet/farrier believe the combination of the 2, and his being a working horse all his life, caused the sidebone. He is not on any supplements...but, the rest of his joints x-ray completely clean. Can you see/feel it on the rear of his pasterns or tell by looking at his hooves that he has it? Barefoot did not work for this particular horse. Goes completely lame when he's shoeless. Original plan was to do 12 week cycles, alternating no shoes, eggbar shoes. Couldn't; he could hardly move barefoot. Next, went to a 3 degree wedge shoe to take the pressure off his heels. This worked for some time and helped his foot heal to a certain extent. Next step was to back his toes way up, and change to a wider ("natural balance" type) shoe. Which is what he currently stays sound in. First vet's suggestions helped ... Auburn University's ortho department helped more. They actually said that a higher percentage of horses than you would think, have a certain amount of sidebone, and that once the foot is properly supported, it shouldn't cause pain. (The ringbone/pastern joint fusing is probably causing him more pain than the sidebone). Digital x-rays are invaluable since you can get second (and third) opinions from almost anywhere by sending an email (or asking your vet to do so). Being a Perchy that's worked all his life ... if he gets to where his feet don't hurt him ... he may really, really enjoy short little rides or long walks on a lead to make him feel "useful."
  4. Mare has been a career broodmare for the past 7 years, so with Baby at 4+ months old, she cares but, she doesn't freak out when you take her out of the field and out of sight of Baby. She will go off on her own and leave Baby with the other horses on a regular basis. So, I'm not really worried about how she will react because she's been at this point before and she's about over it ;-) Filly obviously has not :) And, filly runs the fence when mama OR one of her buddies is out of sight for too long. She is eating grain well and eating out of her own bucket at feeding time. Current pasture situation is mare and foal, old retired mare, young 2 year old and yearling on roughly 8 acres of pasture and trees for windbreak. Neighbors about a mile away have a mare with a slightly older mule colt who will be weaning around the end of the month. They have offered to house both babies in a small, safe lot. I feel like it would be better to leave filly where she is familiar with everything else, and remove mama to our bigger farm. The problem is the wide open 8 acres of pasture where filly is at. I could move some panels from the other farm and build a small pen to keep her in for a day or 2, where she could still see her buddies but not run the fence. I'm not in a hurry to wean, mare is holding her weight fine and I really wonder if she will just wean the filly completely in another couple of months, where it will be more emotional weaning than wanting to nurse. Mare is going to be started back under saddle after weaning, so weather would be the only factor in doing it sooner than later. I'm having vet out to pull mare's Coggins and booster filly's shots and plan to talk with him, but he's not really a repro guy so.... How do you folks who are experienced breeders keep weaning as stress-free as possible, and which of the above options do you think is better?
  5. Hypp Horse

    If he's had 3 attacks in the time you've had him, it's time to make some changes! No RED salt licks - white only. Stay away from alfalfa and alfalfa-based feeds. Use the guidelines that Smilie posted above. Choose a feed and a hay and stick with it. If you feed straight oats, you can always add a vit/mineral supplement - but always check with the manufacturer to make sure it's safe for an HYPP horse that can't have a high-potassium diet. Purina is easy to talk with, and so are the folks at SmartPak. Try not to change things up once you find something that seems to work. Be as consistent in the hay supply as you can be. If 24/7 turnout is an option for you, allowing him to graze and move at will should be a tremendous help. (unless, of course, it is alfalfa/orchardgrass pasture). The water content in the grass seems to help flush their system. Always be careful to warm him up and cool him down completely. White karo syrup can help alleviate an attack. There is also a medication you can get from your vet. We've had a couple of N/H horses come through the barn and have never had a 'bad' attack (one has never had one period, and she ropes and runs barrels - the other mare in training had a very mild attack early on, probably from all the stress of new place, new routine, but nothing afterward). An N/H horse is "manageable" but, you have to pay attention to the details.
  6. Joint Supplement For Ringbone

    Do you have a university you could haul to for a second, more detailed opinion? Or, is there an orthopedic specialist in your area that you could email copies of the x-rays to? Injections into the joint might help. I don't remember what they use to help the fusing process. If fusing is the goal, I've been told (when waiting for hocks to fuse), use glucos/chondro/HA supplements without MSM, because a certain level of inflammation will actually help it fuse faster. HA level should be 100 mg, I believe, for maximum benefit. With a hock, they say a year to fuse if you turn the horse out and let him be. Might be less in this case. Since you trail ride, you probably don't do much sharp turns and hard stops, which is good as far as her comfort level and the amount of stress on the leg. BUT. Maybe it won't fuse, maybe it can't fuse, maybe support is the short-term goal. You probably have a lot of different shoeing options that could potentially help support the angle of the lower leg and make your mare more comfortable. Shorter toes, rocker shoes, wedge shoes, barefoot/shoes on a rotating basis. We've had a few roping horses with ringbone / sidebone issues and it just depends where the issue is, how the vet wants them shod. If she's fairly comfortable in the pasture, you might even be able to try hoof boots with wedge pads for your rides. We're lucky to have a couple of good lameness vets close by, and a couple of really good equine university programs that have been willing to assist, because they can look at digital x-rays and say "have you tried this?" Or, "you really need to do xyz instead". But, it really does take more than one vet's opinion sometimes, to find what works best for your horse. The good news is, once you have the x-rays in hand, you can easily get other opinions with a little research. I'm sure your vet told you that you might need to re-radiograph after 6 months, definitely in a year, to check the changes.
  7. An only horse in a pasture by itself is going to become "attached" to its neighbors - stallion or no stallion. She's likely buddy sour - feeling dependent on staying near those geldings - especially if she is used to living with other horses. She may get better as she settles in, and you probably do need the help of a trainer or more experienced rider to help you, help her, deal with being ridden away from them. Don't ever stop and get off her near them - take her to the other end of the field or out of their sight. Ride her further and further away each time and keep it positive. Make her work harder when she's near them, than when she's out of their sight. If the people next door turn their breeding stallion out with their geldings, sharing a fenceline with them would make me nervous owning a mare. There is only so much you can do to prevent their stallion or your mare from jumping the fence, running through the fence, attempting to breed through the fence ...... Obviously, I have no clue what sort of fence it is, and if it is 8 ft high wood planks, there's less concern than if it is 5 ft high barbed wire. Still. That could definitely add to a behavior problem with a new rider/owner. If this mare was previously a 'performance' type horse -- it's very possible her previous riders got on, walked her a couple steps, and then loped her to warm her up. Nine tenths of the barrel racers and ropers I know don't walk, trot, and lope to warm up -- they saddle up, go to the arena, lope, lope, lope, then back off and trot and walk. Some of the trail riders I know never walk a step on the trail - it's go, go, go for four hours. You can lunge her first, and if she's still taking off (which is what it sounds like to me) -- Have you tried pulling her in a circle? IE, take your left hand and pull her nose around to your left knee, circle. You need to re-direct what her feet are doing and regain control of her face. Again, I would recommend having a trainer or more experienced rider come out and ride her, or help you ride her. I hate to say "just take her back" because the issue may not be as bad as it sounds, and may be very fixable. But it's a matter of how much you want to invest in the horse, and how comfortable you feel in trying to fix it. It's not worth your kids getting hurt, but heck, I was that kid riding the ex-barrel horse that would occasionally decide any tree was a barrel and by god he was going to take off and cut around it -- and he taught me so much more than a deadheaded, dead-sided babysitter ever could have -- that I can't say it's not worth giving her a chance, if you are committed to trying.
  8. When To Start Riding A Young Horse?

    To Nick on the late growth question. I've also heard that the baroque type breeds continue to grow longer than a stock horse (my draft friends tell me some drafts do as well). Could also be a nutrition issue. I've had a couple rescue Apps I've bought as 4 or 5 year olds (with papers -- there was no question about their age) - one in particular I had for a little more than a year. He was about 14.2, 150 pounds underweight, as a 5 year old. Fed him slow and correctly, started him under saddle and turned him into a really nice trail/pleasure horse. He grew a full hand (not to mention outgrowing saddle, fly sheet, etc etc), in the time I had him. You would've not known it was the same horse from start to finish, and you wouldn't have thought a 5 year old would grow that much! We generally start our quarter horses in the summer of their 2 year old year (so they are 27-28 months), put about 60 days on them, and then turn them out for 60 days, continue this ride and turn out schedule until late spring of their 3 year old year, then really start teaching them the finer points of riding, neck reining, tracking the roping dummy, etc, and if all goes well, start hauling them once a month late in their 4 year old or early in their 5 year old year. But, it totally depends on the horse. If he's still really leggy and "colt-looking" at 28 months, we might wait until spring of 3 year old year to ride. We train for a couple different breeders to get their colts sold as what they are bred to do, but there is no sense in rushing a good prospect that's just not quite physically ready. They all get ground work, saddled, ground-driven, and all those basics before we ride.
  9. How Does My Gelding Look?

    I'd like to see a pic of him on level ground; it looks like he is standing on a downhill slope, which puts his lower front legs at an odd angle, and he's a bit 'twisted' away from the camera with his neck and shoulder closer than his hip, making it tough to evaluate anything about his back end or overall balance. I can't tell if he turns in with his front left, or if it is the camera angle and the way he's standing. He does look like he has more toe than heel and should be "stood up" more, but his pastern angle matches his shoulder angle. He looks like he has a relatively short back and a really deep shoulder. Cute face, nice low-set hocks and short cannon bones. Reminds me a lot of a King-bred palomino I trained last summer. Tall, leggy, heck to fit a saddle to, and thought he was human :)
  10. Need Help We Are Rescuing

    If she hasn't been fed right, chances are she hasn't been dewormed either. Or had her teeth done in years. I will usually start with a mild pyrantel dewormer (Strongid, for example); then use an ivermectin dewormer 2-3 weeks later. My vet swears by using a daily dewormer as an added 'booster' after you deworm the first time; he has found it seems to stimulate the immune system. Vet or dentist can evaluate her teeth for you and let you know if she needs to be done; chances are, if she is 'quidding' her hay (dropping wads of half-chewed hay) or dropping a lot of feed, her teeth need attention.
  11. New Horse With Fearful Personality

    I have owned more than one horse whose temperament changed dramatically when their feed and turnout schedule changed. People tend to 'overfeed and underwork' -- some horses can't handle sweet feed. I've had 2 quarter horses, bred totally differently, who turn into basket cases when on plain old 11% (full of carbs and molasses) sweet feed, which is what many boarding barns feed as their standard feed. Standing in a stall for 10 hours a day obviously makes the situation even worse. Many people don't realize that a high carb sweet feed is more of a problem than a higher protein, lower starch feed. My app turns into a raving loon on alfalfa pellets, so he's the only one in the barn who doesn't get them added to his feed in the wintertime. If you've got a horse that has lived on 24/7 turnout and free choice hay/pasture most of its life, and you try to turn it into a stall kept, grain fed pet ... more often than not, you are unintentionally creating behavior issues of one sort or another...either under saddle or on the ground. (And, this can also be part of what dondie mentioned in her #2; mild arthritis can be masked with turnout; keep them up, they stay stiff and sore. A change in farrier where a hoof issue isn't being addressed, a change in tack where a bit or saddle isn't quite right ... ) And, to further add to dondie's #1 - if you're a timid rider who tenses up and things you "think" the horse is going to spook at or refuse, or you ride like you're expecting to have a wreck -- suddenly, the horse begins to look for all the horse-eating monsters around every corner, because she can feel you tense and anticipate that she's going to react.
  12. Broodmares And Fescue

    There is so much varying "opinion" on broodmares and fescue, even among our local vets, I wanted to ask you all who have had hands-on experience with broodmares, what you do. I have been told to pull the mare from pasture in her last trimester. Then, the vet whom I consider to be the "better" broodmare vet in the area, said, just dry lot her the last month of pregnancy. Or even the last 2 weeks. One says fescue hay is not an issue. The other says, feed her alfalfa or bermuda, not mixed-grass that might contain fescue. (In my understanding, the endophyte is only in fescue grass and doesn't affect hay that is cured and stored. True or not true?) Our pastures are not "all" fescue - for the winter, horses are on 100+ acres of mixed grasses, clovers, plants, lots to eat other than fescue grass, plus a mixed-grass hay when the weather turns cold, and a basic 11% protein / 10% fat grain mix for those who need it. This mare has had several babies in the past with minimal human interference, she is a very easy keeper, she's never received supplemental nutrition, etc, beyond pasture and hay, so now that I own her I definitely don't want to overwhelm her with "too much" worry and care. But I also want her to remain healthy and baby to be healthy.
  13. Arab/drafty Mix Critique Help Please

    She is definitely draft type. She has a cute face, and her topline is much better in the last photo (where she was in shape :) I would look for a stallion with an excellent hind end (good croup, good hip, no trace of "cow hocks") - and a good neck. Cow hocks really don't bother me that much...sickle hocks are much more prone to cause issues in a using horse (this from my vet). Maybe even a good, athletic quarter horse stallion with some thoroughbred influence to try to offset some of her 'heavy-ness'? I don't think I'd want to go with an Arabian unless it was had an extraordinary hind end - I see a lot of 'middle of the road' Egyptian-type Arabs that are weak through croup and loin.
  14. Lope Or Canter Problems

    I'm a little confused when you say that she wasn't broke when you bought her, your husband has trained her to ride, but she only has 2 speeds (trot and full out gallop). I'm going to throw out several questions and then several suggestions. Depending on the underlying issue, none of them, one of them or all of them might apply. Does the mare walk, trot when cued, and come back down to a walk (or a stop) from a trot? Does she understand how to jog (slow) and trot (speed up)? Is she ridden enough that she is in fairly good shape? What size area is she ridden in? Does she feel like she speeds up more on a turn/corner then on a straightaway? Does she try to "take off" when she gallops, or is she just fast within the gait? How is her stop from a trot? From the gallop? If she doesn't understand speed within the walk and trot, she's not going to understand it at a lope. In this situation, she needs work on transitions (walk, whoa, back -- trot, walk, whoa -- trot whoa, back, etc.) Transitions should also help if she's trying to take off -- it helps reinforce your "whoa" cue. Another exercise that can help a horse slow down is circles - it collects them, helps them drive off their hind end, teaches them to balance, AND makes them think about something other than (run run run in a straight line). If she is being ridden in an enclosed area (round pen, small arena), she is going to feel very fast because she isn't balanced yet; she needs to learn to carry herself in the gait. A lot of times a green horse will drop its shoulder on a circle, which can also feel "fast". If it is more of an issue of she likes going fast ... Do you have an area with good footing where he can just put her into a lope and let her lope and lope until she gets tired? If so, it may do some good to "lope her out" - ie, let her run until SHE decides she wants to quit, then push her to keep going a couple more laps. (This also helps a horse that likes to take off - they figure out quickly that it's not fun to run when it's not their idea anymore). One final thought - slowing down doesn't come from the bit. I don't know what you're riding her in, but I do know people (probably no one on HC) who will say "curb bit" or "tie down" -- these are quick fixes, not a substitute for training the mare to work correctly.
  15. Yearling Aqha Foundation Filly

    Thanks pintobeans - she's had her feet done since these were taken back in the spring (actually, right around her first birthday!). I really need to take some new pictures with my phone so I can upload them easier. She's definitely going to be a big girl!