phillip

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Posts posted by phillip


  1. The best I have found is to do what ever it takes to keep them sharp.

    I only buy a rasp in a wrapper...some tack stores take them out? and they get shuffled around with alot abuse to them.

    I have used all the 5.99 to 9.99 knives one can find but they have long blades and funky angles...and need a lick or two after every hoof.

    I had a huge lump in my throat when I gave $25 for THE KNIFE brand knife and wish I would have bought one the first time. nice curve to blade and it stays sharper than any others I have used....I want to try others though as if THE KNIFE was good others may be better [Confused]

    Preparing the hoof for trimming will help keeping rasp,knife,nippers with a sharp edge.

    really brush the hoof out!!!keep tools out of any moisture...don't lay on ground...leave out in rain...splash with water an so on...also store them good and don't let stuff rub against rasp,kinfe or nippers.

    save edge is a good rasp.I have one and I also have a diamond that is good also.Leave the painted looking grey rasp's where they lay,don't buy..ahaahaha


  2. I would Go with the straight made nippers, with a smaller thinkness looking jaw on them...This is the key for a smooth,easy on the foream/hand cut that your body will thank you for.

    look at how the jaws are made on a cheap pair then look at the higher end pair. A thicker wall gets in the way on a overgrown hoof and will tend to pull the nippers to the outside of the hoof...kinda like making a roll,BUT(key word)that ends up not leaving enough wall thickness on some hooves....not that your hoofs are bad....you will trims others [Razz] and when that thick made nipper rolls out with a combined needing of even more power to squeeze cause it is taking more hoof off than needed will be hard and not very rewarding.

    The nippers make a wedge like shape going into the blades and that adds pressure to the squeeze as the wedge is cut into the hoof...where as if a more straight blade was pushed into the hoof it would take less effort to squeeze that blade into the hoof....hope that helps


  3. onychomycosis means a fungal diease of the nail or claw.Denotes the decay of the inner HOOFWALL and the WHITELINE as a result of infection by highly adaptable micro-organisms. A.K.A white line disease;onycholysis.

    keeping footing clean along with regular hoofcare helps out.White line can be treated by removeing what can be removed along with adding a topical med. to help heal.

    One thing to keep in the back of our minds is that a streachted white line can mean many things, such as seedy toe...founder...

    when healing a hoof like this keeping it wrapped will help.


  4. levels of certification:

    AFA intern classification....basic entry level component of the AFA's certification program. (it provides a way of evaluating the knowledge and skills of farrier students,recent graduates of farrie-training programs,or people who have begun working as a farrier without formal training..........the intern classification process requires successful completion of both written and practical testing.It is not a pre-requisite for certification.

    format:multiple choice,true/false and matching questions

    passing:80% or higher

    must know ANATOMY..all bones fromknee or hock down,know and be able to identify on a diagram the tendons,major legaments,and cartilage that attach these bones.know what ligaments are and how they are lubricated.

    must know PHYIOLOGY..know the difinition of tendon and ligament.know the basic characteristics of the hoof,including how it grows and functions,and how blood is pumped through the hoof.

    then know pathology,conformation and movement,demonstrate a basic understanding of the phiosophy of trimming hooves and the fitting,nailing,and clinching of horseshoes. and the wear pattern on horseshoes.identify from diagrams variuos types of horseshoes and thier features.

    thennnnnn....

    practical examination..format:honds on,performance examination.canidates shoe two feet,either a front or hind pair,with machine-made shoes appropriate for the horse.must provid eown horse handler.

    TIME LIMIT:one and half hour.

    Scoring:is examined and scored in three parts.

    Hoof preparation-scored during time limit

    shoe prepartion and fit-scored during time limit

    nailing,clinching and finishing-scored after time limit.

    all scoring is conducted by on-site AFA approved examiner.

    PASSING 70% or higher.

    alot to know just for a classification and not a certification.... [Eek!]

    then you have AFA certied farrier,certified tradesman farrier,certified journeyman farrier,special endorsemants........all more in dept [Crazy]

    as long a sa certified farrier is still trying and not got to old to forget.....they are the top in farrier work [Not Worthy]

    the website will help you out more.


  5. Shocktammers as well as any other "like product" helps. My horse seem to have good luck,had good luck, I did not enjoy them in the winter.

    I do feel theyare better in atrail horse and I'm not sure on a performance type horse if I would trust them.

    to the OP.....A good job is a good job same as a bad job is a bad job.

    I would stick with what ever seems to be working for your horse. Happy feet make happy horse.

    AS FAR AS BAREFOOT GOES...........A HORSE ON GRASS PASTURE MAY NEVER TRAVEL WELL IN THE ROCKS.

    The above said "may" [surrender][Crazy]


  6. I see alot of people throwing "I've read" and "any horse" into the same pot.

    Each and every horse that stands where it is....is going to be different than another horse.

    west coast.......east coast........africa......canada....the same thing will not work everywhere.

    Mustangs that have soft feet get ATE! mustangs will rest when they get tender and they normally only move within their comfort level. push them with a "hello-copter" over their norm and they will go lame......simple thinking.

    Most horse owners only think about "the ride" and sore horses not ready for "the ride" they went on.

    I think we must really look at our use of our horses and think about where we are riding then make the best choice for that horse at that time with the future in mind.

    anyone use shocktammers?


  7. anyone not useing nippers must not trim for the public [Crazy]

    buddy...stay with an 15 inch as leverage will play a key roll in forearm pump.

    I started out with the el..cheapo brands.....they work fine when only nipping 1/2 inch or less overgrown hoof wall. when thing get thick and really long the thick jaws will not allow for smooth easy nipping.

    Ge,anvil,diamond,mustad,nordic forge all have better ends of nippers....go ahead and pay $80-$179 and get nice nippers.

    I can say that when you nip only use half the blade to cut... [Crazy] ...it will be easier and faster to get around hoof.

    As far as sharp.....don't cut mud or grim....same as with knife....


  8. I like your horse.

    I have a twh also, I am showing him to park out also.....I really think they have a classy look when parked out with front legs in a normal looking stance.

    I was wondering if you worked him after the trim?

    riding or pen work, also did you get a chance to see if he gimmped on gravel??

    As they say.........WALK ON!!! [smiley Wavey]


  9. While working with flares I have found that while looking at bottom view the wall is "most of the time" thicker on light flares..note: (hoof capsle still same spot) and top trim makes things fast by not nipping trough the thick flared wall.

    On founder type/neglect of care type of flares the wall while looking at bottom is kinda thinner with the wall being over grown past the sole sevral inches and the hoof capsle moved forward,this type of hoof needs support of all the wall stucture it can have so trimming of the bottom seams helpful to the horse.

    I have also found on a kicker that needs flares removed, one can ease a hoof forward for a top trim sometimes easier than getting kicked from behind. After a few trims they seem to get over the legs being touched thingy :crazy:and can be worked from behind.


  10. Hotshoeing is something that is done alot in a therapeutic type of shoeing.

    Hot shoeing is sometimes IN MY AREA a term meaning the making of a shoe from some kind of stock or shoe where the shoe is "HEATED to weld or FORM" [Crazy]


  11. Christmas is near [big Grin]

    All barefoot horses do well with a round edge (roll) from at least front side of quarters to toe...meaning if looking at bottom of hoof...at least a roll could be started at point of frog and around the front of hoof.

    I would almost do a 45 degree roll back to the white line on the front 3rd of hoof, just sand lightly the rest of hoof to help prevent cracks.A huge roll is not good on the quarters when they are dished...(the quarters lower than heel and toe will help spread those heals by adding more weight bearing at the heals)...I have found that huge rolls on dished quarters sometimes made quarter cracks..all the heal spreading needs to be done slowly.

    THIS IS MY TRICK: DO NOT DO, IF YOU FEEL THIS IS BAD [Crazy]

    One must be creative....When looking at heals try to think "keep inside of heal slightly longer than outside to help push apart"

    the heal is going to be 1/16th to a 32nd longer near the center of frog than at the outer hoof wall.

    with good movement of the horse this really frees them up.

    I then create what looks better than what you would be looking at by taking 1/16th off of sole

    from half of frog back to the bulbs...just open the area up ever so slightly.

    Kinda hard to say but I like to use my knife as a magic marker.I create tiny lines to go by [Question] I'll make a tiny groove to get a visual on..umm bar location when there is none....umm...like the frog picture above where frog looks gone. well barely make a line with knife where it should be,compare on next trim...

    The tiny blood looking stuff when you pare down sole is "awesome" we know blood flow to good to the hoof.supplements will aid in a healthy hoof growing to a somewhat normal way of growing.


  12. I carry my horses to be shod to the farrier. The ride seems to help out all horses young and old.

    The clients I trim for are pretty good to me also.

    One barn owner will not let farriers do work unless horse owner is there [Confused] not good for my time..sometimes..Thats cool,They own it [Roll Eyes]

    Trimmer is the "396" big block chevy stuff?

    I always try to do new horses on a day that time is not a big deal so that things go as needed.

    also,I have never left a horse not trimmed..."knocks on wood"

    To be honest I think I would not have trimmed or help catch the horse and left the owner with a little note.

    I do leave little notes on receipts like (horse needs feet picked up often) or note: horse moved around. or horse needs tied up dailey

    I do see your point if time would have been lost on other horse owners for taking time on new horse.


  13. conformation may very well be hereditary.

    I would think if hoof was unbalanced that the paddleing could be helped if not fixed by shoeing maybe even weighted shoes.

    I would pass on the breeding. There are so many horses that maybe a better more useful mare might be found.


  14. When I started trimming and pulling shoes, my time was at the 1 1/2 hour mark.

    I now have "trimmed" the time down to a barefoot trim to 30-45 min on a horse that I trim and that stands good.I have not tried to save time and as I have learned more I look for more than I did when I started but things seem to go good for me.

    It takes me longer to shape one shoe than to trim a horse(?)........ [Embarrassed]

    I'm way to picky [bang Head]


  15. I just love all those cute little feet of a foal.

    your foal is just about to grow out of her baby hooves (if you will)... [Crazy]

    One can see that the shape of the hooves touching the ground is smaller than the cornet band.

    Umm..the new growth is more upright than the darker looking old growth....so that might tend to look more clubfooted but these little feet are still going to grow,grow,grow.. [big Grin]

    I think that the front kinda look contracted at the heels...but I see that this could change along with the whole shape of hoof on the next few trims as baby hoof is trimmed of and the hoof starts to spread.

    The best part about this foal is it's young and much will change in the next few trims.


  16. the bar/frog's look pretty good [big Grin]

    Something withthe back toes being long a horse kinda gets the donald duck walk going on.

    Think about plates we eat pizza off of... [Question]

    regular side up..(dished)..the plate can be tipped or rocked pretty easy by pushing down on the edge....now with plate turned over(dished) side down it can not be rocked.... [shocked] ....same thing with back feet.

    With that style of foot on most horses it causes the limbs to be placed more up under body adding more weight to heels further pushing the forward along with the smacking of the ground.

    Nippers held at an angle can get a roll going on in a hurry,then smooth the roll up with the smooth side of rasp for pretty effective roll.

    Did your farrier forge the front shoes?

    oh nice looking feet on that middle aged horse [smiley Wavey]


  17. They look...ummm...OK....I can tell that someone has trimmed them.

    A horse owner once showed me a horse and told of the shoes being on for 4 weeks... [shocked] ....looked more like they had been on for 18 weeks,and when put on the hoof was not cut back [Eek!]

    I think to compare the farrier's one would need a picture of last farriers work at 1 week and a few days.

    take a picture 1 week 1/2 after next trim then post back.

    most all of the chips and flares should be able to be trimmed away on the next visit.

    hooves are living and are growing as I type so they will never be perfect,like if we carved them out of wood [big Grin]

    I think a trim every 4-5weeks right or somewhat wrong is better than nothing at all.

    If the rest of your horse looks like the feet I bet you really enjoy your mount [Wink]


  18. Nothing wrong with a saw if used in a healthy way for removeing lots of growth.

    I would start by trimming the feeding [big Grin]

    Next, get the heels lower than they are, at this point anything will help.

    try and get most of the over growth of the toe off.

    I really like useing the rasp edge as a flare gauge.

    If a vet/farrier will not be seeing the pony I would leave just a bit of what ever you trim for protection.

    Time and trimming toward what looks like a healthy foot on the outside will in time correct as the inside starts to grow as it should.

    Got to kinda train that hoof to grow normal again.