mistyspride

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About mistyspride

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  • Birthday 03/03/1990

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  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    California
  • Interests
    Reading, snowboarding, 4-wheeling, riding, photography, photoshop, dogs, horses, family, friends.
  1. Older Mare, Strange Happening

    I've seen my own horses do it from time to time. Doubt it's anything to worry about. I think they sometimes keep their tongue out while they are swallowing, kinda sucking the water down if you know what I mean.
  2. Anyone Need A Good Laugh!.....

    Hilarious. Apocalypse. Alabama. Ankles zone. AUTOZONE!!! Heh.
  3. "common" Vet Classes

    Well, as ambiguous as the OP was. I think I can respond with an argument that slightly reflects the point. You quoted the first 2 years of one school's curriculum. Which school? Not stated. I'm no expert on veterinary school, although, I am a junior in undergraduate school as a biology/pre-vet major. The following information is about the UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine. From VMCAS, the official application service for vet schools across the nation: VMCAS, UC Davis page CURRICULUM: The curriculum is designed for flexibility. The core curriculum is discipline-based and provides a broad foundation of knowledge and skills in comparative veterinary medicine. The elective curriculum provides students with an opportunity to explore diverse veterinary-related interests and tailor their learning toward career goals . Electives increase throughout the curriculum with the majority taken in the third year. The fourth-year provides students the opportunity to focus on areas of interest in a clinical setting. Here is a publicly available curriculum (from 2009-2010) for UC Davis Vet School. I will not copy and paste it all here, as there are literally hundreds of available classes. Some are CORE classes, meaning every student must take them during the year (be it, first year, second, etc.). Others, are ELECTIVE classes. These classes can be chosen by the student to fulfill their particular career goal (large, small, equine, food animal). First year CORE classes have subjects like: doctoring, cardiovascular physiology, physiological chemistry, behavior, epidemiology, clinical skills, cell biology, radiology, nutrition and ethics. Not very specific, but I'd hardly like to meet a veterinarian that did not have a PROFOUND understanding of these foundations. While ELECTIVE classes during that first year (I'll just choose the equine-related ones) are: large animal radiology, and equine neonatology. During the second year, more ELECTIVE classes are available: equine locomotor anatomy, in addition the previously mentioned ones. It isn't really until the third year that students can choose many ELECTIVE classes: equine theriogenology, large animal anesthesiology, equine surgery, advanced equine medicine, equine critical care, equine ultrasonography, and equine lameness and radiology. During the fourth year, though, the student can choose their clinical rotations. There are enough to choose from that I will just post the link to the equine track. Keep in mind that this is just one school's curriculum. There are about 35 vet schools in the US, each with varying teaching methods. Also, this is just the four years of veterinary school. While not required, many students (especially those who wish to specialize), with spend a year or more as an intern in various clinics and hospitals across the country. For example, one could intern at Rood and Riddle Equine Hospital, , notably one of the largest and most advanced hospitals in the world. All this training is really irrelevant though, if you don't choose a veterinarian with specific and in-depth knowledge AND EXPERIENCE with the species you own. A student who chooses to pursue a career in small animal medicine will still learn a great deal about large animals, food animals, and exotics. They may, however, have almost ZERO experience handling these animals in a practical setting. I don't know about you, but it takes most people years and years of working with horses to truly develop the skills and experience necessary to properly handle and care for them. One won't learn that in 4 years of vet school unless they devote themselves to it entirely. If you don't think your vet is qualified to treat your horses, I suggest you choose a different one. (edited to correct the bold)
  4. Dealing With Vegans

    Bahahaha! I watched your manatee video like a dozen times! Hilarious.
  5. Fuzzy Wuzzy Winter Pony Picture Time

    Love the lighting in those photos! And the little mini. And the Aussie. Great pictures. Wish mine were that clean this time of year.
  6. So Very Mad.....

    I'm so sorry to see that. Poor pony. Glad she's finally in a better situation with you. I hope your family "friend" eventually realizes how cruel that was; and takes responsibility for the bill. Also, I pray that is daughter does not receive the same warped view of proper animal care. In the meantime, give her a carrot on my behalf.
  7. Becoming Dangerous

    Don't do parelli if you don't want to get hurt.
  8. Parade Ready Appearance?

    Besides plenty of currying and brushing, you can get the dust off by getting a towel slightly damp and rubbing in a circular motion. I too, would hose off their legs and rub dry. If they have white you can use some chalk on it. Also, vacuuming can work really well if they will stand for it. Use the damp towel on their nose, eyes and ears the day of the parade. Keeping them blanketed (with a clean blanket, and after they are fairly well groomed) can make their coat look glossier. A good pair of clippers to clean up their fetlocks, bridal path, and whiskers will also go a long ways to make them look neat and clean. Good luck and have fun!
  9. Bought Myself My First Aqha

    Sounds like you both are doing just great, and that seems like the proper amount of work. Will be excited to see how he does next spring/summer!
  10. Old For A Horse?

    My boy is about 16, give or take a few years. He was diagnosed with navicular pain at 10 and navicular disease at 12. I still rode and showed him actively after that with bar shoes, pads, the occasional dose of bute, and a series of Legend. Now though, he's semi-retired, even though he is still way too young for that! The thing is, he doesn't know how to take it easy. I can't go on a leisurely trail ride without him wanting to race and jig. He was always a real easy keeper until last winter. Now he is on senior feed (Nutrena, which he loves), vegetable oil and beet pulp in addition to increased hay rations to keep the weight on. His teeth were done last spring, and will be done again this spring. On the other side of things, I once upgraded a 29 year old Morgan mare. She nearly died the winter before (this was in Alaska) because her "owners" stuck her in a field with a bunch of horses and round bales. They said she looked fine when the put the blanked on her in the fall, and was skin and bones when they took it off the next spring. That mare had been around the same area for a long time, and she had been on grain-only for years! Sheesh. But she gained the weight back, and lived out a happy retirement as a companion horse, getting hand-walked on trail rides and all the hay pellets, senior feed and carrots a horse could ask for. She died with the same feisty, flirty attitude she was known for at 31. Another horse, that I bought when he was 19 was in great shape up until about a week before he died at 23. He was my 4-H everything horse as a youth, and stayed fat and sound year long. He developed some sort of mystery-disease (tumor? autoimmune?) and deteriorated really fast one December. We had him euthanized and buried on the property. If it wasn't for that anomaly, I have no doubt he could have lived another 10 years. To answer your question, I believe that 0-5 is the horse's childhood. 5-15 is their prime. 15-20 is a mature horse. 20-25 is a senior. And 25+ are the golden years; may they live long enough to enjoy them.
  11. Extreme New Behavior....

    ^^ Well said.
  12. Bought Myself My First Aqha

    I'm not actually all that savvy in horse conformation. But, I did draw some lines for the heck of it. Everyone wants a well balanced horse; one way to put it is that they should fit into a box, with 1/3 shoulder, 1/3 back and 1/3 haunches. The shoulder and hip should both be at about 45? angles (this can vary), as well as the pasterns. Also, the horse should be about as tall from whither to hooves as he is long (point of shoulder to end of haunches). The lines I've drawn are what the "ideal" should be (i.e. perfect square and exactly 45?), so you can compare how closely your cute QH fits them. I think he does pretty well. It looks like he either has some growing to do to "fit in the box" or the camera was looking down on him slightly; altering the proportions. He is also a little hip high, AND YOUNG, so he should get a little taller. I think his pasterns are at a nearly perfect angle and length; if this picture is accurate. His shoulder and hip seem nicely sloped and equal as well. And, I'd have to say that he is almost exactly broken into thirds. Besides the thickish neck, another flaw I've noticed is that his hocks are high. Lower hocks allow the horse to work under himself better and propel himself forward. It also looks like he is back at the knee. Of course, he could still have some changing to do. I would give him the rest of the year off at least (as in; wait til he's at least 3 or 3.5). Riding young horses can cause problems down the road when a horse is ridden too much before his growth plates are fused (some long bones and vertebrae don't close til horses are 4). Think about his poor back, bearing weight that is perpendicular to the skeletal structure and muscle. At least his legs are parallel to the weight. I love him; and welcome to the wonderful world of quarter horses! [smiley Wavey]
  13. Gotta Find A New Senior Feed

    Adding another vote for Life Design Senior by Nutrena.
  14. Feline Vaccination Questions... Cvm?

    I work at a vet office, so here's what I know from my experience. At this vet, we do two core vaccines, rabies ($12) and FVRCP (upper respiratory etc., $16). A third vx many opt for is FeLV (feline leukemia, $21). I'm not sure what particular things need to be protected against in your area, but of course, your vet staff will know. The rabies is good for one year, and the other two should be boostered in 4 weeks. In CA, vaccines aren't required for your cat, if they are indoor cats most aren't necessary anyway. At our vet you can have a blood test triple done that tests for feline aids, feline leukemia and heartworm ($55). That is usually a good first step, because if they have any of these infectious/fatal diseases, you may not want to sink any more money into them. At 4 lbs I imagine they are closer to 3.5 - 4 months old. We usually spay/neuter at 4 months. Feline spay is $95, and neuter is $60. They very likely have worms (almost every kitten/puppy is born with them). We use Panacur (fenbendazole), which is priced by your kitten's weight. We also use a Rx product called Revolution that kills heartworm, mites, some intestinal parasites and fleas. It's super expensive though, about $30 for a one month dose.
  15. Lily's Training Log

    There's a hollow back for you. Can anyone let me know if any of these pics show Lily "on the bit". Or if none are correct, which one comes closest? Critiques? Hand position? I'm dying for some feedback here. Critical or otherwise. On a side note. There is that horse trainer a few miles down the road from me. I'm not interested in sending Lily there for pro training, but I might take some lessons from her. She does mostly cow/rodeo stuff; roping and barrel racing. But I know she gives regular western lessons to little kids and adults. Think that could be useful for me, even if the discipline doesn't match up?