alias113

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About alias113

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    http://kennedyj.4t.com/
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  • Location
    Ellensburg / Anacortes , WA
  • Interests
    Hunter/Jumper, Eventing, Equitation, Sporthorses
  1. What kind of bit for ...

    This is the bit that I posted previously, From the Francois Gauthier Collection - this bit features the Robart Pinchless bit system. It instructs by gentle pressure, not by pain or pain avoidance. This bit provides control while also allowing individual control of both left and right sides of the bit and horses mouth. The internal spring system permits both cheeks to move independently and then returns the port to the resting position. Unlike any other bit on the market. Aluminum precision milled bit, precision spring system, 5" high port mouth, 8 1/4" engraved aluminum cheeks with concho trim. And then this is the only shanked bit I own so I have used it about three times Stainless Steel with a special 5" wide, 3-piece mouthpiece complete with copper rings. 61/2" long cheeks. I'd rather go to something that is more solid then the one I already have. We aren't teaching anything new, I just want a different bit to encourage different a way of going- to help her differentiate between when we're riding english (snaffle) and western(curb).
  2. What kind of bit for ...

    This is the bit that I posted previously, From the Francois Gauthier Collection - this bit features the Robart Pinchless bit system. It instructs by gentle pressure, not by pain or pain avoidance. This bit provides control while also allowing individual control of both left and right sides of the bit and horses mouth. The internal spring system permits both cheeks to move independently and then returns the port to the resting position. Unlike any other bit on the market. Aluminum precision milled bit, precision spring system, 5" high port mouth, 8 1/4" engraved aluminum cheeks with concho trim. And then this is the only shanked bit I own so I have used it about three times Stainless Steel with a special 5" wide, 3-piece mouthpiece complete with copper rings. 61/2" long cheeks. I'd rather go to something that is more solid then the one I already have. We aren't teaching anything new, I just want a different bit to encourage different a way of going- to help her differentiate between when we're riding english (snaffle) and western(curb).
  3. What kind of bit for ...

    training my horse to go western? We've always ridden english in a snaffle and she does great. I prefer something with a copper mouth but thats not completely necessary, I just don't want to get anything that will be hard on her mouth either. She's 8 and this would just be for local shows and a little variety. I don't know a whole lot about western bits but I know that the curbs I have that came with bridles are not quality so I really don't want to use one of those. I saw these on stateline's site, but there is more about them on this website... Good/Bad/or just a gimmick? feel free to suggest other bits as well. http://www.chicksaddlery.com/Merchant2/mer...Product_Count=9
  4. What kind of bit for ...

    training my horse to go western? We've always ridden english in a snaffle and she does great. I prefer something with a copper mouth but thats not completely necessary, I just don't want to get anything that will be hard on her mouth either. She's 8 and this would just be for local shows and a little variety. I don't know a whole lot about western bits but I know that the curbs I have that came with bridles are not quality so I really don't want to use one of those. I saw these on stateline's site, but there is more about them on this website... Good/Bad/or just a gimmick? feel free to suggest other bits as well. http://www.chicksaddlery.com/Merchant2/mer...Product_Count=9
  5. What kind of bit ...

    Would I want for training my horse to go western? We've always ridden english in a snaffle and she does great. I prefer something with a copper mouth but thats not completely necessary, I just don't want to get anything that will be hard on her mouth either. She's 8 and this would just be for local shows and a little variety. I don't know a whole lot about western bits but I know that the curbs I have that came with bridles are not quality so I really don't want to use one. I saw these on stateline's site, but there is more about them on this website... http://www.chicksaddlery.com/Merchant2/mer...Product_Count=9
  6. What kind of bit ...

    Would I want for training my horse to go western? We've always ridden english in a snaffle and she does great. I prefer something with a copper mouth but thats not completely necessary, I just don't want to get anything that will be hard on her mouth either. She's 8 and this would just be for local shows and a little variety. I don't know a whole lot about western bits but I know that the curbs I have that came with bridles are not quality so I really don't want to use one. I saw these on stateline's site, but there is more about them on this website... http://www.chicksaddlery.com/Merchant2/mer...Product_Count=9
  7. Selling advice, so as to not get tricked

    I think dun is very rare with TB's so that is probably just countershading. Just list the color that is on the jockey club papers, and if you can put a photo on the document aswell- so that it shows any leg/face markings. WITH-ALL-FULTS - should be -faults ?
  8. Instruction While Selling a Horse

    I think it is a good idea to tell the rider how the horse tends to go- needing more leg or contact etc- and tell them how you usually warm up. So, you could say "go ahead and walk on a loose rein for a few minutes and get settled, then you can do some flatwork while i set up a few jumps". While you are putting up jumps you can keep an eye on them and if they clearly aren't getting something after a few minutes jump in and give some direction like the previous poster said. If you have a trainer or friend there they could chat with the parent's so they don't take over. Also, remember to give the people that are looking time to talk among themselves without you listening in. [ 04-15-2007, 06:50 PM: Message edited by: JMK ]
  9. When a dressage rider tried herding cattle - pics!

    That is so completely awesome!!! You should frame that one where you're heading at the calves!
  10. When a dressage rider tried herding cattle - pics!

    That is so completely awesome!!! You should frame that one where you're heading at the calves!
  11. Yesterday I went out with a friend and her TB overreached and ripped her heel pretty deeply. My horse wears Old Mac boots, but if she didn't I would definitely use bell boots. Polos don't do much, but I think splint boots are a good idea. What I would really like to see are boots that offer protection from snake bites because I am really paranoid about that ... I can see how debris could get under a boot, but its very easy to take them off and check for that kind of stuff.
  12. Ugh, I hate long legs...

    If I were you I would look for anything that had a 'long' flap, you can also measure from the stirrup bar to the bottom of the flap and compare those. Definitely return the new saddle. You might want to consider 'eventing' models instead of all purpose because they tend to have more forward flaps. Have you tried Ricks Heritage Saddlery? They have a large selection online and you can trial the saddles out.
  13. Ugh, I hate long legs...

    If I were you I would look for anything that had a 'long' flap, you can also measure from the stirrup bar to the bottom of the flap and compare those. Definitely return the new saddle. You might want to consider 'eventing' models instead of all purpose because they tend to have more forward flaps. Have you tried Ricks Heritage Saddlery? They have a large selection online and you can trial the saddles out.
  14. It's been soo long - Riding pics

    You really don't need much of a critique! You look like a very stable rider, and this is proven with those great bucking shots. You have a great line from shoulder/hip/heel, but I would like to see your bring your elbows back to your sides and get a straight light from elbow to bit. It looks like your hands are too low in the first picture, probably in an attempt to make your horse come round. In the cantering pictures you have a more straight line, but floppy rein = no connection. Watch out for puppy paws! What you should do is focus on getting her forward with *very* little contact, and as you gradually add contact with the outside rein you keep the impulsion and get collection with the inside rein. If you do pick up too much contact with both reins you'll loose the forwardness. Super cute horses! I am almost positive that the saddle is squeezing the paint around her withers. You said it is too wide, so maybe it sits low on them and doesn't give her any freedom to move. This is my conclusion from looking at how far her withers go in to the gullet on the last three pictures. Not to mention the fact that she is bucking without even bothering to put her head down, meaning she's just getting more hollow with each buck. Using a crop would be my choice of punishment. You could just play around with pads until you find something that reduces the bucking, or ride in a totally different saddle just once and see if it helps. With your current saddle it looks like you'll need to pad the front to get it off of her withers, but by doing that you may end up making it pinch more If you really wanted you could try a Len Brown CorrecTOR pad (I've been looking at them but haven't bought one). They're supposed to fit any saddle to any horse ... I dono, might be something to it but I'm not sure. IF it did work then paying $160 for that is way better than $500+ for a new saddle for each horse.
  15. I am going to my first official hunter show in a few weeks (just a little local show) and I'd appreciate some clarification on terminology. 'hunter hack' - Is it a regular flat class, but with two jumps added in at the end? or is it over a regular course, like a warm-up hunter? Any help at all would be great ... Also, what should I expect in a medal class? Thanks everyone!