• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by TCrown

  1. He is a 5 month old Stud colt, SON of Hangon Johnny (If you know anything about RIDs, Johnny is sought after- a lot) and a purebred colored mare (not RID, but purebred ID). I talked to the owner and found out she did not want to trade horses. Sigh. It was expected but I took the chance and got the answer I expected. Anyhow, after chatting with the owner and sharing our pony-tude experiences we found that we both wanted to start driving horses. I have the cart dreams are made of, she has the horse built for the sport (the colts mother). Turns out, I wanted the colt more than the cart and she wants a good home for him more than cash- SOOOO we are trading this week later!!! This is a breed I have been researching for 5 years and trying to save up for, with the intentions of buying or breeding a much lesser quality purebred than that of what I am getting. I expected another 5 years minimum before I could afford a ID or RID mare to breed, or buy a foal outright. I found a picture of his Sire standing up for conformation (I think it is the ONLY one taken this way) and compared them side by side. They look like they could have been the same horse! Wanted to post a picture and let you all look. Sorry the picture is a little distorted. Tell me what you think- **Note, I do not own, nor claim to own the sire. (His picture is on the left)**
  2. I recently watched a video of a pony who was adorable, off lead (or at liberty), and completely without a pen. He would chase his owner, stop, backup, SIDEpass, and do the trot-almost-in-place (I can't remember the name of the movement right now), and the Spanish Walk. All for treats, his owner was not tethered to him, and there was no fencing. There is almost no way that particular owner could have trained him to do such by riding him, he as TINY (maybe 13hh if I had to guess) and she was not! I was curious if anyone has any ideas on how to train such movements from the ground, or even just start me off with learning to teach impulsion. I have not the slightest clue as to how to go about this from the ground! I just barely know the basics of engaging the hind end/lifting the front from the saddle. I can collect a trot, or extend, but have not quite figured out the (dare I try to put a name on it) passage I think it's called. I was hoping to start teaching a horse of mine, and once I get it figured out I would use the correct or working methods on the horse I actually WANT to use for this. I know it sounds silly, but my "guinea pig" pony is very happy to learn and forgiving if I get it wrong. Learning on her makes it easier to transfer whatever lesson to another horse. I've heard clicker and treat training work, I get that. Reward after said move is performed. BUT how do I get said move to occur, in order to treat? ANY help or advice would be nice, I am willing to try multiple methods.
  3. Thanks everyone! Though on a sad note, I found out tonight that Johnny passed. Such a nice horse too.
  4. Impulsion, And Higher Level Dressage Movements?

    I would LOVE to know how to get a horse to hit the target. My sister trains dogs for agility and uses a technique in which she rewards the dog for offering behaviors. However, dogs are much much more food driven most of the time. How do you use that in a horse? I would be able to get from B (expanding after the horse knows to smack said target, then removing targets slowly) to C, but getting from A (connecting a treat with smacking the target) to B is the part that loses me. Here is a scenario with the whip methods, mostly I have heard to scratch the inside of the horses knee. She will offer one of two behaviors- #1 being that she will push her knee forward and attempt to scratch the "itch" (whip) with her face. #2 being that she will pick up her foot. Do I have that right so far? IF she chooses #2, I assume I reward and then pester her into bigger movements until I get what I want, one foot at a time. However, knowing my filly, she would choose #1. Do I just continue to pester until she provides a different action? I understand these things with dogs, but most horses are never TAUGHT to offer behaviors without a precise cue. For example, you want them to pick up a trot, you give them cue until they do it, the repeat. (and yes, most animals have to be taught to offer behaviors until they get the one that rewards them, it is not usually a natural thing to come by) With dogs, it is much easier, because they REALLLLLY want that food, horses don't always. Any suggestions on building food drive in a horse? Thanks again, you are all being very helpful!!
  5. Impulsion, And Higher Level Dressage Movements?

    Bah, I knew I had the name wrong... Passage, Piaffe, same difference (wait until I get slaughtered by the Dressage competitors over that statement) Thanks Nick!
  6. I am looking at a Draft mare; 1/2 Shire 1/4 Freisian 1/4 Holsteiner. She is rather large at 5 years old, sticking at 17.1hh... Barefoot. I expect she will possibly grow another inch or two, but here is where I am in the dark- I have no idea how to go about guessing a horses shoulders/gullet needs. All of my horses are high withered, or wear a thick pad with a narrow saddle. I usually train Drafts and other wide horses in Western, or trail. I have a saddle that fits most of them, but it is not english! Now since this mare would be a Hunter/Jumper and Eventing horse, I don't know what to do about the saddle... She is not currently under saddle, so I can't rely on the seller for advice. Anybody have some wisdom as to 8-10 (or bigger if there is such a thing) inch gullets? And is there a major difference in Jumping saddles, vs Dressage saddles gullets?
  7. He is about 6 years old, but I think this particular picture is from his 4 year old year. He has both Baroque and Sport breeding, his father being Anne340 (Sport Type and his mother Odalien (Baroque Type). He is a little stunted, only about 15.1 give or take, but I would like an overview of his conformation from someone who knows what to look for. I know he moves nice, and is appealing to the eye, but that is about all I know. I am new to the world of owning a Freisian. I could not get the picture to load, so I am hoping the link will work... Sorry the picture is blurry, I will try to take new ones in the next month or two!
  8. Critique A Freisian?

    Thank you Goldentoes! You pretty much pegged his movement. He is gorgeous to watch, but dissecting him in action, he has a nice round front, beautiful knees, great reach... But the hind end needs work. I will get some newer photos when I get the chance to line him up proper. Though that won't be for a month or two >.> LassieLu, his neck is short in this photo. More recently he has a super long neck. He has more "swan" to him than even my Arabian (who was built and bred for conformation/halter). All in all, thank you for the information. I am using what I can gather about his own build to train him proper and really get him going nicely under saddle.
  9. I am looking at a Draft mare, and also having more frequent Draft owners bring horses for training. I would like to buy a "Draft" saddle, but one I can use not only in training, also for showing. In the next couple of years I am going to start moving up from showing in schooling shows, and I have no idea what is "legal" in rated shows. Here is the saddle- It is an Ascot Draft Horse Icelandic Endurance saddle (what a mouthful!). I supposedly will fit the mare I am looking at, but I will have to see about legalities before BUYING it. Anybody know the answer?
  10. Critique A Freisian?

    -bump- Anybody?
  11. Is This Saddle "legal" At Rated Shows?

    Thanks, I have been looking into Thorowgoods and Wintec, I have to say I have never owned a wintec english saddle. Western ones, sure and they held up ok, but were not "straight" one side was longer than the other, or you could feel yourself sitting "off kilter". I have never had a Thorowgood, but so far I have not seen a single complaint. If anybody knows of one for sale; 18" or larger (seat), and preferably one of the changeable gullets I would love to talk to the owner. I am not fond of CL, or ebay but am willing to take that gamble if needed.
  12. Is This Saddle "legal" At Rated Shows?

    It looked comfy, but after reading a bit more about the brand, and stores selling it- I think I will first try to find a different saddle... Use that as a last resort. I found a few good looking Jumper saddles with changeable gullets, up to 10". But I have yet to find that in Dressage, used, AND under 700-1400. Im thinking I may need to break into the savings for once. I may have to wait until spring, but it looks like it might be worth the wait.
  13. Dressage Trainers In Mo

    Let me start by saying, I never thought I would do Dressage... You guys have no excitement in bends ;) I have been riding Jumper for the past 5-6 years and have recently realized, while I can sit on a horse, I cannot ride like I should be able to after this long. I started riding at age 9, taught myself until I was 16. Basically, a recipe for bucking queen, but disaster-rider in the ring. I started taking lessons from a podunk trainer when I turned 15 (I think). She continued teaching me, and I must say I did learn a lot. Just not the basics. I can now jump 3'6" without falling off, survive a buck in midair, and land turning. However, I cannot for the life of me, use my legs. They are non-existent. I have used a few different trainers here and there, but most are too interested in getting me in the ring and winning some speed ribbons to bother with helping my seat/leg aids. I was injured 2 years ago, only just recovering from a severed ACL last summer. I have not been training a whole lot due to life in general, but I am fully capable of training and riding again. I recently went to a show, and decided I was going to look for a trainer. Because my horses have been trained by me, they don't notice my lack of legs aids. But here in a year or two, I am going to start trying for eventing, training my own colt. Thus, I need serious help. Not only in learning to use my aids, but learning HOW and WHAT those aids are. I never have learned exactly how to pick up a particular lead, nor have I learned properly how to post. My weak knees are only making it harder to learn on my own. I am really hoping someone here will point me to a trainer, maybe not even dressage, but someone who has experience with physical therapy and/or injury recovery. I need to be riding someone elses seasoned horse, one who won't just "go with" my lack of aids, but one that will teach me what I am supposed to be doing. I may be looking for years at this point, because I don't know of many trainers who are capable, much less willing, to help in this case. If I had the ability to do this for someone else, I'm not sure I would. I know it is a lot of work. I am hoping someone is willing to at least try. Thank you sincerely. (PS you don't have to be dressage, I just assumed Dressage would be the best for my lack of balance and aids. You could be western for all I care, I just need help learning before I mess it all up, I have a chance to start from scratch and I'd like to do it right this time)
  14. Dressage Trainers In Mo

    Central, I am about 3 hours from her, but it may be worth it for once a month. I found her website, will try to contact her and find out some details. Thanks! Any others? ETA: Does she have an email? I did find her website, but no email. If not, that is ok. I can try to give her a call this weekend.
  15. Update On The Super Pony!

    Well, I got some awesome photos from this past show (well the photos stink with detail, but the overall shot shows a nice form) and thought I would post them for anyone interested in Witchy (Previously posted, I may have called her Minor Chaos)
  16. Update On The Super Pony!

    Lol, it is a skirt, called a "riding' skirt. Basically very very baggy pants. I show in Jumpers, and when I can get away with it, Dressage or Hunters. Barrel and Poles are very open about the dress code so I do them as well. Not to mention it really gives me an advantage when my Jumper can spin on one hind leg instead of going a 5 stride circle. As for her breeding, who knows... Spotted something, 13.2hh and approx 800lbs, and still bulking out as she is only 4.Very refined legs but the barrel and neck of a full bodied Appaloosa.
  17. Just For Fun

    See I have a pony that I know is half Appy or POA (I saw the mother, and she was approx 14.1hh, 900lbs or more, and VERY leopard). She is 4 years old, but the pictures were taken last summer. I just wanted to see what you guys think, for fun mainly. I have been told she looks Welsh, Polish, Paso, Gaity, Crabbet, and many other refined breeds but I just don't see that! I see a fat little Appy with a very cresty neck! Here are the photos, I know they aren't the best but if you feel like playing with them, please feel free. The first was after a long workout, the second was halfway through this past winter, and she has a completely different look! (PS she is not really as small in the rear as the first picture looks)
  18. Horse That Bucks When Has Horsefly On Him

    I usually smack them or swing my hand at the spot irritating the horse, my own horses quickly learn what I am doing and settle, but I have known a few that don't. Also, Horseflies truly to make for a miserable bite!
  19. Just For Fun

    Are the links/photos working for anyone else yet? They appear to be fine for me, but I don't know if anyone else can see them... I would really like it if someone gave their opinions on her.
  20. Just For Fun

    HA! I dont know what changed, I didnt do anything, but they are working now. Anybody want to give me a critique? (Or give a couple of guesses at her breeding, other than spotted)
  21. Just For Fun

    Hmm, I will try and fix them tomorrow first thing, sorry!
  22. Help!

    OP, Cheri is right on the mark as far as training goes here. I have a colt that I took in pity, his owner was used to QH's and their kind of feeding/training. This colt is an Arab or Saddlebred (no one can agree on which!) and he is highly strung, and while under the previous owners care this is a basic idea of what happened- Lefty went home with old owner, went into "training" and basic desensitizing. Lefty proceeded to be a very nervous colt after being gelded (I can only imagine why), he would shake, quiver, and run away with any attempt at catching, working, or haltering. He lost a lot of weight in 6 months time, this poor guy thought by pouring feed, high protein, and lots of fiber into Lefty he would gain his weight back. Lefty only became that much more agitated, nervous, and highly strung. He began figuring out that if he ran away, spooked, or reared up, he could scare the man into leaving him alone. I was asked to take Lefty in as a project, I do a lot of that. I took him off grain (not recommended without vets help), pasture only. Some hay in bad weather. I kept him in a pen, fed him daily a handful or two of feed. He did not get the grain if he did not come to me. I did not go to him, that is an important note! He must come to you to get treats and extras. I eventually got Lefty to where he would allow for being caught. He still did not lead, catch, or even tie without a LOT of work. After 6 months of this "be nice" training, and getting nowhere, I decided to take a different approach. You see, Lefty shakes, profusely, and he quivers, paws, and is VERY head shy. Even now he has some serious issues with being tied, or in a confined area (round pen, trailer, stall, lunge line). I am fairly certain someone, once upon a time, whopped Lefty while he was tied, or in small confined areas. No proof, just a gut feeling. Here more recently I have been able to work Lefty in pens, and on a long line. The thing that helped him was to retrain him completely. Do not act as if he has been beat. Treat him as though he is perfectly normal, just spooky. Try to start in a pen, dragging a 6 foot lead on him. If he does not like his head being touched, put a lariat around the base of his neck. Make sure to be aware of where his lead is, so you don't get caught in it. Follow him around the pen, this may takes HOURS before he calms down. Be ready for it, carry water and food (human food) on you. When he decides to stop moving, you stop. Once you have his eyes AND ears, not just one or the other, back off. See if he will follow you. Probably not, but that is the goal. Do this as often as your schedule allows for. It seems rather silly, but I have not found a horse which does not seem to "get it". Once he even takes a step towards you, verbal praise. Not loud, squeally praise, but quiet. Think of a nicker, that should be your tone. Low, soothing. He will get the hang of this game after a while, and once he either walks up to you, or allows you to walk (no stop-and-go allowed) up to him AND take his lead in your hand, then you can pet his shoulder, or neck. Not the head. A horse who has truly been beat in the head requires time. A lot of small games like this, which allow for you to touch him near the head, will go long ways. Lefty still has problems with lines and whips, but he will now load into a trailer, divider and all, or follow me into a pen or stall. He has been letting me ride him lately, on a bosal without saddle, or sometimes with. He is coming a long ways since I changed the plan. I know for a lot of you more techy trainers this probably sounds retarded, but I swear it works. I am not usually into "natural" horsemanship, and I don't even know if this is considered as much. But I read it in a book once, tried it, and it has worked with numerous horses for me. Lefty is fine so long as I expect for some spooks here and there. He is only 3, and has a lot of time for change. He actually allowed for his first ever hoof trim last week (I do my own). He has never allowed for one before this, ever. He is learning about bits, saddles, and confinement as that is his biggest fear. Being restrained. Whether or not this helps you, you might find it worth trying. I think it is worth looking and feeling silly for the peace of mind that comes from knowing you did everything in your power to help the horse. I have only had to give 2 horses away in my rescue experience. 1 was for sanity reasons. She was "insane" as far as horses go. And the other was a choice I made because she had a broken shoulder, her new owner agreed to vet checks and rehabbing, so I allowed for giving her away to that home in particular. I never just give horses away unless I have to, you don't know where they will end up. Hope this helps
  23. Mounting

    I had a filly who liked to swipe at me with her front leg when I would go to mount. She had been ridden for about 90 days and then let sit all winter. I started her by getting on with a block, or stool, but then went to mounting from the ground (She is 13.2hh and most riders will not use a block for her, since she is for sale, I try to get them used to what they will come into contact with the most). She had no problems and then suddenly in the spring she decided to start sniping at me. Screeching, pinning, and swiping her front leg out at me (pawing, whatever you would like to call it). I carried a crop for a while and would "pop" the offending leg or tooth gently. Much like a light half halt, something to redirect her attention. If she continued, I would also use a stern voice. It took a while but she figured it out. The ONLY reason I would suggest using a crop/stick, is for an offending foot or teeth. If they decided to bite/paw/kick you they need to be (in their minds) "bitten/pawed/kicked" back. Kind of like the idea of biting a puppy who bites you. I do not think punishing a horse who does not show these behaviours is a good idea. If you think it might be your toe causing the problem, then try goosing her with your knee, or fist. Just stand there next to her, lined up for a mounting. Then reach out and poke her. Kind of do it until she gets comfortable with it, a lot of green and young horses just need to be shown that you are not going to eat them. I use this method for all young horses before I ever get on them. If they are extra sensitive, I "sack them out" using a light english pad, and then a heavier western pad. They need to be used to things rubbing on them, touching them, or even popping them. You never know when you are going to snag a berry bush, or a tree branch on the trail. Hope this helps.
  24. Ottb

    Another thing you might take into consideration, is whether or not they won on the track. As well as HOW LONG they were raced. I have worked a fair share of track horses (usually right off the track with less than a week of "work" in a pen) and ex-racers (my current mare is a 10 year vet. She ran for 7 years and won a good amount of the time, thus she still handles like a firecracker. Cranky, highly sensitive to "go" and rarely responds to "stop"). My best piece of advice for you is this, If you want a project, a long, drawn out one. Then go for a winner, or a vet. If you are looking to show, take one that retired because of age AND retired sound. If you want a quicker happy ending, and maybe not something so firey under the pressure of the ring, go for one who was retired early, preferably sound (lameness usually means structure issues, or the horse was pushed too hard, too far, or too fast. This can and will create a lot of issues with the sanity and trainability of the horse). Something who was retired for lack of "love for the track" or "too slow". I have found the slower ones usually do better for Dressage, Hunter, and Pleasure. They can still be difficult, as with anything that is treated like a money making machine (not saying all trainers do so, but around here, they do). The winners usually are more testy, but far more reliable under pressure (IN MY OPINION) for the ring. If you don't mind attitude and flat out disrespect at some points, winners can be a lot of fun. They do have their own set of issues though. Speed, no brakes, only left hand turns, very little bend, etc. This can be worked on, and they can come out of it. It all depends on the trainer, and how much you are willing to work with the horse. You cannot just fight the horse into it as a lot of locals here believe. My own mare is highly intelligent, and blocks pain whenever it pleases her. Thus riding her can be difficult. I have seen plenty of them canter right through a fence, because they wanted to get to the other side and it did not matter that there was barbed wire, or electric fencing. Again, this is all in my opinion, and I am not an expert. Just sharing my experience and advice. I hope you find an OTTB to your liking!
  25. Getting Horse Off The Forehand

    Anne, hang in there. I may not be a dressage trainer, but I do know some about basic dressage riding (not much, but enough to retrain horses). While a "stop now!" is not exactly textbook- it does work with lazy, big, heavy horses. Especially those who know they are bigger and can block the bit pain. I worked with a 1200-1300lb Quarter/Draft, he was ex-barrel horse. Moved like a Morgan, and we thought to teach him some Dressage for resell. He has burnt through every bit, and pair of hands that tried him. He has a tendency to pull like a freight train, and not to go fast. Just to pull. He gets very heavy on the fore because of it, and he learned to tuck his nose between his knees and do whatever he pleased. Without a round pen, arena, and no effective way of lunging, my sister and I resorted to a martingale and/or draw reins (ONLY to take his mouth off our hands), and we simply allowed him to fight himself on a full cheek snaffle. No twist, or chain, just a soft snaffle. We worked him like this for about 6 weeks, 2-5 rides a week. He eventually got himself so worn out by pulling that he laid off the bit, he slowed up, and actually listened. I would ride him in the early part (my sister is a MUCH SOFTER rider than I, so I worked him until he was paying enough mind to allow her on) with my sister judging our turns, transitions, and halts from the ground. Then once it became obvious he had tired, we switched. She would purposely aggravate him with lateral movement and walk-canter-halt-trot-halt-whatever we could think of transitions. He was actually manageable after about 8 weeks of CONSISTENT riding style. He became controllable to the point we could take his side reins off, and then work on bring him up and rounded. This was a horse that was pure muscle, bull headed, and extremely "burnt out" with bits. He is now happily in a new home serving as a cowboy mounted shooting horse, on a snaffle. It does work, but it takes a lot of work, and a really determined rider. Sometimes two. I realize your horse is different, just sharing my experience (however limited it is) and hopefully giving some encouragement. Hopefully you and Citrus will find a happy-medium